A_Vitale Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 So Guys as I start my Roubo bench I have a few questions about the dead man on the leg vise. How should it properly attach to the paddl?e also what material is everyone using for the pin itself? and lastly does spacing of the holes matter much as long as they are consecutive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flairwoodworks Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 So Guys as I start my Roubo bench I have a few questions about the dead man on the leg vise. How should it properly attach to the paddl?e also what material is everyone using for the pin itself? and lastly does spacing of the holes matter much as long as they are consecutive? Couldn't not post here since I'm currently listening to "Leg To Stand On" by Theory of a Deadman. Choose a straight grained hard wood for the pin and make it big enough to withstand the clamping forces that will be applied. How big is that? I dunno. Is the part that get riddled with holes called a deadman? I didn't know that, but I know about the veritcal deadman that supports the end of a board. Anyhow, I would make the spacing not too close - no closer than 1/2" for sure. Oh, and mortise in the piece you're referring to as a deadman (one word). By the way, have you seen THIS SITE? He's got lots of great step-by-step posts and photos about making his bench. PS: I predict "Got it Made" will play when you complete the bench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenaissanceWW Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 I think what you are referring to as the "paddle" is known as the chop. I attached my parallel guide (or deadman if you prefer) via a wedged through tenon into the chop. I cut 2 rows of holes in the guide and staggered them so that I had and adjustment point every half inch. I would have to look at it again to determine for sure, but I think each hold was 1" on center. The spacing is not hugely important, but you don't want giant gaps or you won't be able to hone in on the fit of your jaws to the workpiece. However, I rarely change the pin position as most of my work is in the 7/8 to 3/4 range. For the pin itself I'm using an old Crown tools burnisher. Although I used a white oak dowel for a long time until I switched up to something fancier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 From memory, I think Chris Schwarz has the holes in his deaman on 1" centers, but the sides (left & right) are off set by 1/2" giving 1/2" adjustments. O and I just have to add this, because it;'s on my playlist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_Vitale Posted January 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 Well guys thanks for your help but i guess what I am referring to is the chop....sorry about the poor use of terminology! Hopefully that will help a little... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdbuilder Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 A few pics of how I did mine. The parallel guide fits in a through mortise and is held tight against the tennon shoulder with drawbored oak dowel from the side. No glue needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_Vitale Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Thanks md I knew I could count on ya....again! lol Is that maple you used for your bench top 12/4 or 8/4?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdbuilder Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 8/4, 12 to 16" wide planks turned in to maple "2*4's". Final top thickness just under 3" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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