Epoxy Top Coat


IAHawk

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Hi

I am making a small cabinet to go next to my utility sink and an am making the top ou of some left over walnut I have. The cabinet will take some abuse like wet items that have just been cleaned, brushes, buckets, containers etc... I am looking for a way to make the top as durable as possible but keeping the natural wood color. My idea is to apply a epoxy top coat which I have done in the past but this top is different. I am going to rout and edge with an ogee or some other edge bit. The issue is how do I epoxy the top and keep it level and keep the edge from looking sloppy?

Here is and idea of the type of edge I plan on doing to the top.

Or if there are better solutions other than using epoxy for the top that are durable and stain resistant.

Thank you

wainscote84_classical_big.jpg

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I'd keep the top flat and apply epoxy like boat builders do. It looks like the call it barrier coating. I personally use west systems epoxy for all sorts of different things but this is one possible use for it. 105 resin combined with 207 special clear hardener is used commonly on wooden boats to show off the wood handy work. I figure if it's good enough to flat in water around a sink shouldn't tax the finish.

https://www.westsystem.com/instruction-2/epoxy-basics/barrier-coating/

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4 hours ago, Brendon_t said:

FYI, Epifanes recommends Way more than 2-3 coats. Of gloss 7-8 if sprayed, up to 16...

My can of Epfianes clear high gloss w/ UV filter says 3 coats.   I would think that would be fine since his environement is not outside.

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8 hours ago, Ronn W said:

My can of Epfianes clear high gloss w/ UV filter says 3 coats.   I would think that would be fine since his environement is not outside.

We must be using very different products. I just confirmed yesterday with Doug at Epifanes. 

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Is this the product you are Talking about

https://www.epifanes.com/page/clear-gloss-or-satin

Why is this better than say A General Poly, or a Minwax Poly?

Couldn’t I just use a gloss u/v Floor Covering?

I looked at the West Systems, kinda steep for a top that is only 18x 25, it would be about a $100.00 to coat it. But thanks for the info.

I guess what I really wanted the advice for was how to apply the epoxy to the top and edge, how to keep it from dripping all over and not look sloppy. I do not want to just keep it flat, I would like a decorative edge, (skill building).

i know it is just a shop cabinet that will get beat up a little  but I do these projects to practice for the ones that count.

I am interested hearing more about the epiphanes finish for future projects, why it is better than the finishes I have been using

 

Thanks

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56 minutes ago, IAHawk said:

Is this the product you are Talking about

https://www.epifanes.com/page/clear-gloss-or-satin

Why is this better than say A General Poly, or a Minwax Poly?

Couldn’t I just use a gloss u/v Floor Covering?

I looked at the West Systems, kinda steep for a top that is only 18x 25, it would be about a $100.00 to coat it. But thanks for the info.

I guess what I really wanted the advice for was how to apply the epoxy to the top and edge, how to keep it from dripping all over and not look sloppy. I do not want to just keep it flat, I would like a decorative edge, (skill building).

i know it is just a shop cabinet that will get beat up a little  but I do these projects to practice for the ones that count.

I am interested hearing more about the epiphanes finish for future projects, why it is better than the finishes I have been using

 

Thanks

Application will be slow to get it how you are saying, without drips from the edges.  I'm currently 4 coats per side into an outdoor table of walnut with two live edges. My process is, Epifanes gloss, uncut with a quality brush. I lightly hit the edges and ends first because the brush is more dry and it's easy to control how much is laying on. After sides and ends, 4" wide brush gets the middle coated in just a few minutes. By that time, the runs that are going to happen usually have leaving a small bubble on the under side. A trip around the outside with a rag to absorb what has pooled works for me. 

This does leave an imperfect finish on the other side so plan to do the last coat on the top show surface.

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I more or less linked the epoxy link to show you that you can apply slow setting epoxy with a roller. If you don't currently have an epoxy kit and were looking for one  West systems is great stuff. If your not looking for epoxy go poly.

If your looking for a finish to just apply any poly will protect the wood. Make sure to do quite a few coats. The main benefit for epifanes is for UV protection. If your inside that doesn't really benefit you.

I made a vanity for my previous house's bathroom. Made it out of pine and used minwax brush poly. Used it for 4 years no problems. Got wet every day. Key is to make sure to not leave water standing on it. If you plan on leaving pools of water on the counter with out wiping it off go to a granite or quartz counter top place and see if they have scraps they can fix up for you. That small of a size is a sink opening they'll probably give you the material and charge you to polish and clean the edge.

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No one using CPES any more? Seems that for ages, every time someone asked about a water resistant finish, CPES, top coated with Epiphanes, was the answer.

(Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer, CPES)

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/mobileportal/show_product.do?pid=97636&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=cpeskw&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImqC-gvP-2gIVCIvICh1SawMeEAAYASAAEgJ04_D_BwE

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 5/11/2018 at 6:18 PM, wtnhighlander said:

No one using CPES any more? Seems that for ages, every time someone asked about a water resistant finish, CPES, top coated with Epiphanes, was the answer.

(Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer, CPES)

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/mobileportal/show_product.do?pid=97636&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=cpeskw&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImqC-gvP-2gIVCIvICh1SawMeEAAYASAAEgJ04_D_BwE

Just now found your post:  I used CPES, as recommended by an article in FWW, for a version of the "Not So Rustic'" table.  I just used a local version of spar varnish over it.

After about a year outdoors but under a covered portion of the deck (and we put a table cloth over it for the winter) it looks new.

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