ArtJacobson Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 Hi, Would a product like Oxalic Acid help tone down the vibrancy of a grain like pine? I like the pattern on some of the wood I have but need it much much less vibrant / less contrast. I was originally thinking gel stain would help and just color things evenly, but the grain still pops on my test piece. Thanks for any suggestions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 It may be worth a try, but I doubt it. My tests to try and gray wood with white vinegar and peroxide both gave less than satisfactory results. I assume this is why pickling stains came about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 Can you be more specific about which variety of pine? Southern Yellow has a much greater difference in early and late grain than does white pine, for example. Especially with southern yellow pine, the texture is an issue, even if you are successful at muting the color. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wimayo Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 No. It won't. I don't think a two part wood bleach will do it either. Without having tried it, I think one way (maybe the only way) to do this is to find a stain or dye color that matches the denser darker grain as closely as possible. As you know, the softer wood (summer wood) absorbs color more than the darker (winter wood). This is why most stains or dyes end up giving the contrast you don't like. So, find a color that evens them out. Of course, just a clear finish without any stain (particularly a water based clear) will result in less contrast. I've not tried it, but I think you can seal the wood with shellac and then use a glaze rather than stain to provide color. Some one with experience using glazes I'm sure can elaborate. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 Hindsight always being crystal clear, I'll just toss out something that may be helpful next time. When I am making my material selection, I have already decided on how I will finish something. It is part of the selection process even within the species I am culling through. One piece of cherry can finish very differently than another piece of cherry if it came from a different batch. When get material that has been sawn in sequence, I mark them before they go in the rack to make it easier for me to select boards when I go to use it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtJacobson Posted November 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 5 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: Can you be more specific about which variety of pine? Pretty sure it's southern yellow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtJacobson Posted November 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 So, it sounds like a seal of dewaxed shellac and glaze would dull things down? Sorry for the basic questions, finishing is one area I'm in need of a lot more experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 IMO, yes, a glaze finish will provide the most even color, short of outright paint. As an option, shoshugiban (scorched wood) looks pretty good on SYP. IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 8 hours ago, gee-dub said: One piece of cherry can finish very differently than another piece of cherry if it came from a different batch. When get material that has been sawn in sequence, I mark them before they go in the rack to make it easier for me to select boards when I go to use it. @gee-dub, from where do you source sequenced lumber? Unless I’m there when my supplier gets his delivery, I’m not even sure it comes from the same region and that’s not a given. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 Or depending on your stain manufacture you can make a shader concentrate.Typically you thin your topcoat with 50% thinner and add 1/2 to 1 tsp of your stain. I like to use water-based from a single manufacture so you know all the materials play nice with each other. Each finish manufacturer will tell you what ratios they like mixed. The above is a spray type application. Or you can glaze over your topcoat by hand with a stain. Just make sure you let things dry really good between coats. Glazing will tend to muddy the look of the wood. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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