RichardA Posted February 6, 2019 Report Share Posted February 6, 2019 1 minute ago, K Cooper said: Listen atcha! You do nothing no your doc tells you too! Yeah, but I'm old, and can get away with it. They call it alsheimers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 6, 2019 Report Share Posted February 6, 2019 It’s more gender controlled than age. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted February 6, 2019 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted February 6, 2019 On 2/5/2019 at 6:52 AM, I B said: Aces! What do you do for bases? Something like this 22 hours ago, gee-dub said: Similar. The veneered ply has the veneer on the inside and the birch ply outside sets about 1/8" proud below the sides. I will also add felt dots. I'll post a pic when get back in the shop. Just enough to crate a shadow line. 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted February 7, 2019 Report Share Posted February 7, 2019 gee-dub, if you cut your 45 mitres one end cut on one side of the blade and the other end on the other side of the blade would that work? regardless of hoe close to 45, the total 2 cuts should equal 180. Right? Is that possible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted February 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2019 Not opposite ends of the same board on opposite sides of the blade because that would amplify your error by least 2. It is possible to cut mating ends of two boards on opposite sides of the blade. You would have to experiment with your particular setup. Personally I would find trying to keep track a little daunting but, I imagine it would become routine if you used this method a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted February 7, 2019 Report Share Posted February 7, 2019 I have a mitre sled for my table saw. The left fence I carefully installed it at 45. But I did not worry about perfect. On the right side I was very demanding on getting square to the other fence. By cutting each piece on both sides I get square. Perfect for mitering frames... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 Regarding your 10-305 bandsaw- I like the improved fence you made! I may need to make a similar one for mine. Did you resaw those panels on the 10-305? I tried to resaw a 4.75" piece of cherry yesterday and it did not go well with my Starrett blade. The poplar test I did gave pretty good results, but I only got about 1.5" into the cherry before moving over to the table saw. I will admit I was rather impatient in setting up the guides this time, but figured it was good enough when the poplar resaw didn't have any meaningful deflection or drift. Any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted February 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2019 On 2/25/2019 at 7:50 AM, JohnG said: Regarding your 10-305 bandsaw- I like the improved fence you made! I may need to make a similar one for mine. Did you resaw those panels on the 10-305? I tried to resaw a 4.75" piece of cherry yesterday and it did not go well with my Starrett blade. The poplar test I did gave pretty good results, but I only got about 1.5" into the cherry before moving over to the table saw. I will admit I was rather impatient in setting up the guides this time, but figured it was good enough when the poplar resaw didn't have any meaningful deflection or drift. Any tips? Thanks. The stock fence relies on the table edge which is a little too irregular for my taste. I was looking at truing up the table but then just milled a piece of scrap as I needed an easily adjustable fence for what I was doing at the time. Not super elegant but, workable and open to adaptation to your needs. Replacement fences are just a scrap box away I resaw on my 17" machine with a carbide blade so, I am no good to you on tips for resawing on the 10". It does suit me well for curved work which is why I got it. It moves along pretty well even in 6/4 white oak. Cutting to its height capacity is reportedly good in the reviews but, the feed rate would have to be such that the machine didn't bog. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted February 27, 2019 Report Share Posted February 27, 2019 52 minutes ago, gee-dub said: Thanks. The stock fence relies on the table edge which is a little too irregular for my taste. I was looking at truing up the table but then just milled a piece of scrap as I needed an easily adjustable fence for what I was doing at the time. Not super elegant but, workable and open to adaptation to your needs. Replacement fences are just a scrap box away I resaw on my 17" machine with a carbide blade so, I am no good to you on tips for resawing on the 10". It does suit me well for curved work which is why I got it. It moves along pretty well even in 6/4 white oak. Cutting to its height capacity is reportedly good in the reviews but, the feed rate would have to be such that the machine didn't bog. Thanks for the response! Looks handy for having a low/tall option. I’ve found the fence to be irregular as well, it’s definitely not lock and go. I usually check for square in both directions before and after locking it. Makes sense. I got it for curves and small things, but have had decent results resawing smaller (2-3”) or softer stock up to capacity. I’ll eventually get a 14-17” bandsaw for real resawing and ripping thicker stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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