Chestnut

HVLP Dye

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One question and one comment.  What needle and cap set did you use?

I had read in one of Jeff Jewitt's articles that when you pre raise the grain with water it is best to let it dry over night before sanding and that even after that you may get some slight grain raising with the tint.  My personal experience is that ply always fights you on this more then lumber does.

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2 minutes ago, Chet said:

One question and one comment.  What needle and cap set did you use?

I had read in one of Jeff Jewitt's articles that when you pre raise the grain with water it is best to let it dry over night before sanding and that even after that you may get some slight grain raising with the tint.  My personal experience is that ply always fights you on this more then lumber does.

I used the 1.3mm standard cap. It's all i have. Fuji's site suggests the 0.8 mm cap set for dyes but i found what i had worked well enough. Shellac is a different story. They suggest the 0.8mm - 1.0mm and i can see how that would improve the finish. Shellac dries so fast getting enough on the surface fine enough to level out but not too much so that it runs is tough.

I should note i used the shellac more as a color additive to add a hair of amber and less as a barrier. Beings that i was solely spraying i could have gotten away with going from WB dye to WB poly. Next time I'm going to try adjusting the color with dye and doing just that. I don't like spraying shellac. Cleaning the gun is a pain, the stuff dries so fast and the nooks and crannies are difficult to clean. The over spray cloud is nasty and left the close adjacent surfaces gritty feeling.

I'd also agree with Jewitt. Unfortunately I didn't have the luxury of that kind of time. I raised the grain, applied the dye, and shellac all between getting home late from work and before i went to bed so 6pm to 9pm, on a humid day to boot. I only put 1 thin coat of shellac down and figured with 24 hours of dry time that it would turn out ok, and it did. If this was furniture and not corn hole board's i wouldn't have taken the risk. As i noted above I put the boards to use very quickly. I started setting up to spray the WB poly at 4:30 pm had both coats on by 5:15 pm and was using the boards at 5:45pm. Nothing but HIGH praise for Endurovar.

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I snapped a few pictures of the completed board today in the sunshine for those that are interested in the final result. The dye looks very purple in direct sunlight but more brown in shadded areas.

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Well done. I see there’s no wear on the inside edge of the hole! :D

Have you used the Endurovar before and if so, how has it lasted? 

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25 minutes ago, K Cooper said:

Well done. I see there’s no wear on the inside edge of the hole! :D

Have you used the Endurovar before and if so, how has it lasted? 

I've used it on the aggravation game boards that i make and it holds up to abuse well. The boards get slid around on tables transported in cars and used at campsites. It's a beautiful finish that is only tarnished by it's price tag.

But i don't use it on them unless they are for me as i only make about $15 per board for a few hours of work.

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18 minutes ago, K Cooper said:

Would you recommend it for outside Adirondack chairs? 

It's an interior only finish so no. General does make outdoor oil which i've used and is ok they also make outdoor 450.

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