Curly Maloof Rocker


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13 hours ago, Bmac said:

I measure from the front after the boards are cut to length and I cut my joints before the glueup of the seat. 

As for the back legs, you may not be as far off as you think, once the joint is cut in the leg and the leg placed on the seat, you will have the seat overhang, or stand proud of the leg. This is ok and will be cut back later once yoy start sculpting/shaping the final look of the seat. 

Now in my build, using Brock's and Marc's plan, an adder block is added to the inside part of the leg and this is something you could do also. I think I showed that process clearly in my posts.

After reading your post I measured using my template where I had accidently cut the notches out. Now that I encountered this issue I can make a couple of reference lines on the template and use them to ensure I have the placement of the template on future seats positioned correctly.

I will just add a piece of wood to the inside portion of the leg and joint pad area between 1/4" and 1/3". Then I can easily trim away any extra. Or just flush the leg to the joint, measure the gap for the raggit, that will determine how much wood I need to add (it should be 1/4").

I did notice in Scotts DVD I think he made another goof when describing how to ensure the joint area was properly cut. I followed his instructions and cut an extra 1/8" off, thus I'll need another piece of wood glued onto the leg.

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As I've promised I'm going to journal my next Maloof Rocker build. This is one of my favorite all time builds and this will be my 5th rocker in the past 2 years (third rocker of this year). I started

Ok, @Spanky got me going to finish up this post. I had put my last coat of finish on the Rocker yesterday and so I went home at lunch to move it into the house and grab some pics.  When I left of

Short update, only spent a little time in shop and have a busy weekend, so here's where I'm at. Finished shaping, sculpting all leg to seat joints. Sanded to 180 but I still have a few scratches

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Ok I think I've determine how to avoid the mistakes I made, I'm assuming that I did and Scott's instructions could be improved. I may be overly anel and this is not really necessary. I will document the procedure if I use the current plans for the real build. The Hal Taylor plans should be here today or tomorrow, they are super detail but still may have somethings that confuse me. OH well, sometimes life is confusing and sometimes it is fun trying to discover how to correct your mistakes.

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1 hour ago, Bmac said:

It's my understanding Hal does a few different things, esp with the headrest.

Best plan hands down is Marc's. His instruction videos are superb, I mean really superb.

https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/

Not only the head rest, which is a series of board similar to the seat where he runs the grain up/down (six blocks from 4 to 5 inches wide (4” for a small chair and ~4 & 3/4” for a large) by seven to eight inches long (depending on what your band saw will cut). This provides a
contiguous width of 24 to 30 inches which is sufficient width for most chairs.)

417527028_Hal02Headrest.jpg.8c4815634c3a8c8f94b70704eca1f208.jpg810886961_Hal01Headrest.jpg.24bff097fa3c6b0224ae0636651a6a08.jpg 

Also, his spindles are flexible 

384399742_Hal03FlexibleSpindles.jpg.c2044bb4a3520653bb9975ffff092618.jpg

I think he makes all of his seat flat rather than rounded. I personally like the rounded look.

Marc Spagnuolo always does a great job. I failed to look at his build and did not know he had done so until you mentioned it. Looks like he also has a flat bottom seat.

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For the past several days I've made very little progress because I could not understand what happened to the seat back joints.

2048443519_TB54SeatLeftBackJointBefore.thumb.jpg.21879ac1556f95264a943ad7c11d5707.jpg

Initially I could not understand why the red arrow areas where so large and why they were not equal. I went in huge circles trying to determine what the heck I did wrong. Finally I notice that the rabbit joints (the green arrow areas) were NOT 0.25" nor where they equal. I spent a few more days trying to determine what did I do wrong. Tossing and turning in bed one night it hit me ..... DUH ...... I had cut the rabbits after I had glued up the seat. Perhaps you remember in an earlier post I stated that I had goofed and glued the seat together too early. Well this introduced this issues. Due to the curvature of the seat it was not possible for the router to set flat on the seat boards and correctly cut the rabbit joints. 

I pulled out my carving tools and patiently worked on the joints. Then I used a block and 120 grit sand paper to ensure everything was level. Following is the results. Now both the left/right joints matched. Finally I could move to the next step.

1999869979_TB53SeatLeftBackJointAfter0220200731_124833.thumb.jpg.7033e6ae7a1f677a94f586e50bea809e.jpg

Because I'm using the negative/positive degree router bits I had to make a jig that would cut the angles in the back legs. 

BTW I will be using instructions from Hal Taylor for the official build, I understand he does NOT use the neg/pos 5 degree bits. Recently I received his PDF instructions and have not really looked at them. I'm sorta torn between finishing this test build or just jumping in and moving forward with his instructions. I'm leaning toward moving forward with Hal's instructions. However I have two major projects that I really need to get started on, both have hard deadlines and I cannot afford to miss the deadlines.

Here is the 5 degree jig I made. Note that I made lots of notes on the jig, hopefully this will ensure I do everything correctly.

The board at the far bottom (you can just see the edge) is attached to the base. Its main purpose is just to give me more space between the jig and me. I don't like the idea of a spinning blade and my hand meeting. The base has two miter attachments and ride in the miter slots in the table saw. A few months ago I re-tuned my tablesaw and ensured that the blade was correct positioned to give me 90 degree cuts. I used the five-cut method to ensure all was accurate.

The board with the pink highlighted area is attached to the base and just serves as a stop for the movable pieces. The left side of the highlighted area is in alignment with the left side of the tablesaw blade. In the image I have my dado setup. The height of the dado blade is 0.25" above the base of the jig.

1285035404_TB55BackLeg5DegreeJig20200802_145300.thumb.jpg.9947ed9c3673a607977c3c25f95307b0.jpg

I firmly positioned the movable piece of the jig and leg against the fixed piece. Aligned everything for the cut and made the 5 degree cut. It would have been best to attach a couple of clamps to hold the movable pieces. There are two reasons this piece is movable (1) I flip it over to make the cut for the other leg (2) I use the same base for the 90 degree cut.

In the following I'm standing on the outfeed side of the tablesaw. I wanted to show the alignment of the leg against the jig and the position of the leg at the point the blade will pass through and make the cut in the leg. The reference lines (the pink highlighted area) are NOT used for this alignment because the two cuts (the 5 degree and 90 degree) must correctly meet.

372334579_TB55BackLeg90DegreeCut20200802_145403.thumb.jpg.b33b83fe1fe89118804d41e1d123dbf4.jpg

I'm happy with the alignment but would have been happier if it had been a bit better.  

I don't know why but I think most of the issues were me and not the fault of Scott and his instructions. I had goofed by glueing up the seat too early, this introduced a major issue for me and I just had a lot of issues doing the 5 degree cuts.

1618458997_TB56BacklegsTestfitonseat20200802_145708.thumb.jpg.b041d84addc2bcae604a3bc5d1cf8b7d.jpg

 

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