Curly Maloof Rocker


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The jig that you use to sand the rocker laminations is interesting. I also thing it's interesting how thick those laminations look. What thickness did you cut the lamination too? Would you have less issues with breakage if you went thinner? Also is all the stock that you are using for this project air dried, or did you get some KD lumber?

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As I've promised I'm going to journal my next Maloof Rocker build. This is one of my favorite all time builds and this will be my 5th rocker in the past 2 years (third rocker of this year). I started

Ok, @Spanky got me going to finish up this post. I had put my last coat of finish on the Rocker yesterday and so I went home at lunch to move it into the house and grab some pics.  When I left of

Short update, only spent a little time in shop and have a busy weekend, so here's where I'm at. Finished shaping, sculpting all leg to seat joints. Sanded to 180 but I still have a few scratches

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4 hours ago, Chestnut said:

The jig that you use to sand the rocker laminations is interesting. I also thing it's interesting how thick those laminations look. What thickness did you cut the lamination too? Would you have less issues with breakage if you went thinner? Also is all the stock that you are using for this project air dried, or did you get some KD lumber?

Good questions, I didn't really cover this when I went over that. The jig I use is limited, will sand at max 3" wide laminates. But it works well enough to not have to go out and get a drum sander. 

First thing is that the plan calls for 3/16" thick laminates, 6 per rocker. In the past I've used 1/4" with no problem on other rockers. These laminates after sanding measured in slightly below 1/4" and I used 5 laminates per rocker instead of 6, rockers measured out 1 1/8" thick once out of the glueup jig, about what you get with 6 laminates at 3/16". I don't think there is more of a problem going thinner, if anything there will be less chance of breaking if thinner. Breaking would be more a problem the thicker the laminates. The curve on these rockers is not extreme. In other projects where I've done bent lamination where the curve was more extreme I went thinner than this, less than or at 3/16". 

One thing that I pay a lot of attention to with the laminates is straight grain. Irregular grain or knots are more vulnerable to breaking. 

I use exclusively air dried lumber, except with this build. This build is KD Maple I got from Spanky. This is one reason I tried to get the laminates below 1/4" because my belief is KD is less forgiving when bending. This lumber worked out great for this, bent very easily and no issues. I don't have as much curly figure in these rockers, picked lumber with less curly figure thinking it would bend better, but that was based on nothing more than an uneducated guess. 

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25 minutes ago, K Cooper said:

You sure make the sculpting look easy. I still get wedgies thinking about it!

Well it has a lot to do with practice. First time I sculpted something it didn't go as nearly fast!

Now do we need to talk about your underwear choices?

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Great job Bmac! Rounding the under side of the seat took me a long time on my stools. Getting them to match and then matching to the other two stools took me a long time. Now every morning when I walk by I realize nobody even sees them ;)

But if they ever look they are very nice :D

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On 11/9/2019 at 10:09 AM, pkinneb said:

Great job Bmac! Rounding the under side of the seat took me a long time on my stools. Getting them to match and then matching to the other two stools took me a long time. Now every morning when I walk by I realize nobody even sees them ;)

But if they ever look they are very nice :D

True, it is a minor detail and quite frankly in my past chairs I've left more of an end grain edge there than most people do. But my concern here is that the way the rocker sits, slightly tilted back, that edge is more visible and I'm concerned the dye may make this area darker. 

Even with that said i still will likely leave somewhat of an end grain edge and test the dye on a piece before I put it on the chair. Don't like the knife edge you see some people develop. 

Thanks as always for your kind words.

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1 hour ago, pkinneb said:

The grain in that seat is pretty awesome Bmac! I love how it goes to the left and right at the back. Great tips throughout the build thanks!!

Yes, I'm excited to see that seat with some dye and the finish, I might have a keeper there!

Thanks Paul

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Coming along great Bmac! The figure by your horns is really gonna pop!

I have a couple questions.

1. The angled cuts on the headrest are compound angles correct? You get one angle from the measurement you show I assume you use a bevel gauge for the other is that correct?

2. Do you do all the headrest sculpting prior to glue up?

Thanks 

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1 hour ago, pkinneb said:

Coming along great Bmac! The figure by your horns is really gonna pop!

I have a couple questions.

1. The angled cuts on the headrest are compound angles correct? You get one angle from the measurement you show I assume you use a bevel gauge for the other is that correct?

2. Do you do all the headrest sculpting prior to glue up?

Thanks 

Great questions and you are right, there is some figure that is going to pop.

First, it's not a compound angle. The inside of the back legs should be parallel to each other. You simply need to copy the angle of the splay. So that angle I got from the chair is all I need.

Sculpting the headrest the answer is no. All the sculpting I've done up to this point is pre glue up, and it's pretty extensive. It's the only piece on the chair you work this much prior to glue up. But I'll have another round of sculpting after glue up. After glue up  you have the spindles to deal with, so the more you can do now the better. After gluing I'll rework all the joints and blend in the joints to the rest of the chair. The underside of the headrest, where it meet the back leg is a real tough place. This final shaping step of the headrest takes a lot of time.

26 minutes ago, Chet said:

I am assuming your changing of the curve of the headrest doesn't effect the layout of the spindle holes to the point of changing the comfort of the chair, correct?

Great question also. 

On my different chairs I've played with spindle position, bunching them more toward the middle and away from the back leg. I had great luck with that and no change of comfort. This chair I plan to do the regular spindle placement, and after laying out spindle position on this headrest, the difference was very minor, so I'm not worried about that. It does mean the middle spindles will need to be angled slightly more forward, but it looks like that won't be an issue either.

As for comfort, I'm not sure. It amounts to about 1/8- 1/4 of an inch forward at the midline. I think, but don't know for sure, that  it will be comfortable. Charles Brock has developed a plan for this rocker using all 8/4 stock and he claims it's just as comfortable. I think his main changes are arm stem height and headrest sweep. We'll see how it turns out. If it's not as comfortable as the others (which I doubt) it will at least be prettier!

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Really neat tool @Shane Jimerfield, I think they would definitely fit into this build. To really get any force on a rasp you do have to hold the tip of the rasp with the other hand. On days I use my rasps a lot I feel like my left hand has been rubbing sandpaper all day, not to mention what the rasps do to my wedding ring. I'm going to keep an eye on that link and hopefully they come back in stock, I'd love to add them to my tool chest. If they were in stock I'd put them on top of my Christmas list. I especially like that he has sourced the rasps from a great rasp manufacturer, Liogier.

Now the one short coming I see in those rasps is you don't have a fine tip to work in tight areas and for delicate shaping, but they would be perfect for most other things.

Thanks again for sharing the link.

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