What Is The Most Common Size...

[roughsawn]

...rough sawn lumber, or S4S lumber that you guys buy for the projects you work on?

And, if you could cut and mill your own lumber for all around use, what dimension would you mill it to for drying...before you could use it in the shop. Also, why does that dimension work best for you? Majority of work, breaking down, ease of storage/use, etc?

I want to simplify my milling work, and perhaps just cut all my lumber to 2-1/2" thick in the future. Then, break down as needed in the shop when the time comes. Just wondering if this is a good idea, or if you guys can give me some different suggestions.

I thought I was done milling, but it's funny when people find out I'm set up to do it...I seem to have a steady free supply of trees for future use.

[wtnhighlander]

I prefer to buy rough, rather than pay the cost of surfacing. As a hobbyist, I don't mind taking the time to mill, and it leaves me with more options on sizing. The rough thickness I use most is 4/4, and some 8/4.  I don't resaw thicker lumber often, as my tool set isn't optimal for that.

Commercial shops lean toward S4S material, because time is money, and standardization is efficiency.

[BillyJack]

There’s no cost savings around here to plane it yourself. Liberty hardwoods and Paxton Lumber company charge the same either way..

[Bmac]

On 1/30/2023 at 1:18 AM, roughsawn said:

...rough sawn lumber, or S4S lumber that you guys buy for the projects you work on?

And, if you could cut and mill your own lumber for all around use, what dimension would you mill it to for drying...before you could use it in the shop. Also, why does that dimension work best for you? Majority of work, breaking down, ease of storage/use, etc?

I want to simplify my milling work, and perhaps just cut all my lumber to 2-1/2" thick in the future. Then, break down as needed in the shop when the time comes. Just wondering if this is a good idea, or if you guys can give me some different suggestions.

I thought I was done milling, but it's funny when people find out I'm set up to do it...I seem to have a steady free supply of trees for future use.

I like your thought process and have done what you are asking about for years. I mill a lot of my own lumber and the logs are free. So the cost is not a big factor and as a result I like to mill thick. Milling thicker gives me options and in my mind the biggest downside is drying time is increased. I typically mill at 10/4 (2 1/2") and 5/4 or 6/4. This gives me a buffer for finishing and any warping or other distortions that happen during the drying process.

The 10/4 size is really my main size and my piles are mostly that. Cuts my milling time down and I think I get less distortion in air drying with that size. That size means I do a lot of resawing at the bandsaw, which results in great book matched panels! It's also a great size for legs. Only problem with this size is when I need a 1 1/2" board, then I'm usually left with a 3/4" or less off cut from the resawing. These offcuts go in a pile and are used when thinner stock is needed. The 5/4 and 6/4 stock usually end up as 4/4 (1") when surfacing is complete.  This system has worked great for me. But there are other things to consider..

Cutting thicker means I typically cut shorter logs (5'-7'). Reason for this is just the size and weight of these slabs, esp when green. That length just makes it easier to handle my stock and I typically am not building anything over 7". I do have some longer stock milled just in case, I typically do those with the logs that are not that wide. Imagine carrying a 10/4 slab that is 10' long and 30" wide, that is heavy. 

So the 10/4 size gives me tons of options in the shop and that size works great for me!

[roughsawn]

Thanks Bmac! I was thinking the same way.  And, it isn't a problem to resaw with my Laguna and Resaw King blades.

I have piles of lumber (both 10/4 and 6/4) that are dry, will be dry next year, and will be dry in 2-3 years. So, I have a rotation for quite awhile. And am still cutting and milling.

[Chestnut]

On 1/30/2023 at 12:18 AM, roughsawn said:

And, if you could cut and mill your own lumber for all around use, what dimension would you mill it to for drying...before you could use it in the shop. Also, why does that dimension work best for you? Majority of work, breaking down, ease of storage/use, etc?

I want to simplify my milling work, and perhaps just cut all my lumber to 2-1/2" thick in the future. Then, break down as needed in the shop when the time comes. Just wondering if this is a good idea, or if you guys can give me some different suggestions.

I chainsaw mill and everything goes to ~10/4, or 2.5". I can usually get 1" thick material out of that when i break it down. I really wouldn't bother jointing and planing slabs or large boards as the losses to joint and plane a long full width board is pretty wasteful. It's always better to joint and plane work piece parts that are cut close to size.

On 1/30/2023 at 12:18 AM, roughsawn said:

I thought I was done milling, but it's funny when people find out I'm set up to do it...I seem to have a steady free supply of trees for future use.

Care to share some logs? I'm never looking hard but always interested esp if they are white oak or walnut, or cherry.

[roughsawn]

White oak and walnut is so hard to come by, I need to keep what I have. I don't have access to any cherry. I have an abundance of red oak to go after...but I still have to go after it. Sorry Drew, but I'm to old to be cutting, milling, hauling, and stacking lumber for others.

I'm hoping to get enough stacked for 5-8 years of woodworking, then I'll just sell everything and sit around in my chair and drool on my shirt.

[Chestnut]

8 hours ago, roughsawn said:

Sorry Drew, but I'm to old to be cutting, milling, hauling, and stacking lumber for others.

Oh i have no interest in you cutting it hauling it or loading it i can do that. If you know of some logs that are going to be left to rot reach out if the timing works I'll come snag it.