Beechwood Chip Posted February 29, 2012 Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 Well, if the splitter is all the way at the back of the saw like some are, there's a lot of room to get in trouble between the back of the blade and the splitter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian VanVreede Posted February 29, 2012 Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 I will probably use both a runner and a splitter. If im tapering, its probably going to be legs which means thicker stock. For that reason alone I want a splitter behind the blade to prevent the wood from pinching. The runner will just make it dummy proof. One for direction (runner) One for protection (splitter) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted February 29, 2012 Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 Ive found that instead of the table saw the jointer is just as easy and there is no jig necessary, with no saw marks to clean up. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian VanVreede Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 how is this done dwacker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 how is this done dwacker? I'll try to explain, once you know how its easy. For example a 1/2" taper 20" long. Set your jointer to cut 1/4" deep (half the taper). Find the spot on your fence where the cut starts, just use a square to draw a line on your fence. Draw a line on all your pieces 10" (half the taper length) from the bottom (widest part of taper). Run the piece through your jointer until the line on the work piece matches the line you put on the fence. Now turn it around and do it again but push the cut end down to the table so it sits at the taper angle. Thats it perfect taper every time and repeatable. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 The new Bessey toggle clamps work great on a taper jig! I use the square drive washer head screws for Kreg holes to mount the clamp and the fences for the tapered part. Never got around to making an adjustable jig, just slap a fence where it is needed for the current tapered part, move it when you need something different. I just pull the clamps off and use them for all sorts of part holding around the shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikepdarr Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 I broke down and bought the Rockler after a lot of back and forth. I had a coupon plus free shipping. Money well spent so I can build furniture and not jigs. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21731&site=ROCKLER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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