Von Posted March 26 Author Report Share Posted March 26 On 3/25/2024 at 11:41 AM, Mark J said: If I understand the operation correctly, the left edge of the L-fence has to be lined up exactly with the left edge of the saw teeth. Curious how you set up for the cut? Similar to @wtnhighlander I used a square against the edge of a tooth on the blade to set the L-fence. On 3/25/2024 at 10:45 PM, Coop said: I’ve never built a L fence as I’m not sure I understand the usefulness of it. As often as I’ve heard of them, I’m sure I’m missing something? Similar to a router with a flush trim bit, it lets you trim one piece of wood to a template that runs against the fence usually attached to the wood with double-stick tape or similar, but as @JohnG mentions you can also have a template with some high-friction material you just hold against the wood. Unlike a router, it can only cut straight lines, but it's very fast and efficient since it's only making a 1/8" cut, so you can easily cut off pieces that one would normally rough cut first on a bandsaw before flush trimming with a router. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted March 26 Report Share Posted March 26 They can also be used as a sacrificial fence when you are using your dado stack. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 27 Report Share Posted March 27 I just watched a couple of YouTube videos and NOW it makes sense. Gonna build me of these this week. Thanks guys! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Von Posted April 1 Author Report Share Posted April 1 Speaking of L-fences, in Cremona's latest video (2:24 mark) he uses a taller version to flush cut edge banding on plywood. Snapshot below. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted April 6 Report Share Posted April 6 On 3/26/2024 at 6:33 PM, Coop said: I just watched a couple of YouTube videos and NOW it makes sense. Gonna build me of these this week. Thanks guys! Here's a rebuild of mine. They do come in handy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Von Posted April 6 Author Report Share Posted April 6 On 4/6/2024 at 7:12 AM, gee-dub said: Here's a rebuild of mine. They do come in handy. Thank you for posting that - I knew I had seen it but couldn't find it readily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chet Posted April 7 Popular Post Report Share Posted April 7 I built this L fence set up by Bob Van Dyke in the article below. You can attach different fences to the main jig such as the L fence and a tall fence to do operations like the one Matt is doing only providing more support. https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/shop-machines/supercharge-your-rip-fence 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Von Posted April 9 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted April 9 Clamp wall up in NW corner of shop. Started making more holders and hope to get all the clamps up tomorrow. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Von Posted April 10 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted April 10 And the wall is clamped. Clearly no consistent buying strategy. Still want to get my long Emerson straight edge clamps up and futz to get the most used towards the center where they are easiest to reach. Also changed the blade on my bandsaw, which was long overdue. Thanks to all who gave me recommendations. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Von Posted April 14 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted April 14 I added these feet to a cleat wall drill holder I built previously. I mention this because I've learned with cleat wall stuff to really think about what support it will get from the wall and I think the rule of thumb is that you want to the support against the cleat wall to go lower than the center of gravity of whatever it is being held. This holder was being annoyingly bouncy when it held the drills. Adding feet long enough to get support from the next lower slat on the wall made it rock solid. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Von Posted April 17 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted April 17 With the clamps consolidated on the other wall, this gave me back some wall and floor space, so I moved my drill press down to give it 4' clearance on each side and let it and my bandsaw breath a little. Various tool rearrangement on the wall to accommodate the shift. While the tools were getting moved around, I implemented gee-dub's cleat pegs on the wall behind them. I had a bunch of cleat stock milled at 2.5" already, so my implementation is smaller at only 6.25" total height. First one below is my prototype to work out the sizing. Will batch out a bunch tomorrow. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Von Posted April 19 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted April 19 On 4/17/2024 at 4:54 PM, Von said: Will batch out a bunch tomorrow. If you see what looks like a plug for a hole on the wrong end of one of the cleats, that's a jpeg artifact :-) Not worth covering most of my process since it's the same as gee-dubs, but I will capture the way I figured out to drill the angled holes on my drill press table. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted April 19 Report Share Posted April 19 You have made some wonderful progress on your space Von. I have really enjoyed getting to tag along so far. Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Von Posted April 21 Author Report Share Posted April 21 On 4/19/2024 at 4:20 PM, gee-dub said: You have made some wonderful progress on your space Von. I have really enjoyed getting to tag along so far. Thanks! Thank you. I appreciate having the advice, feedback and ideas from this forum, as well as the extra motivation I get from sharing progress. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Botch Posted April 22 Report Share Posted April 22 On 1/19/2024 at 9:03 AM, Mark J said: Have you given any thought to heating your space (when in use)? A 240V electric heater might raise the temp significantly, and can be turned on and off as needed. Late to this thread; stole some ideas and I have some input on the above idea. When I was stationed up in Grand Forks ND the house I bought had a two-car garage that was also quite deep, had room for both vehicles and a decent-sized shop. I insulated and sheetrocked the whole garage, then bought a forced-air kerosene heater. On the first really cold Saturday morning (-24º F) it was about 0º in the garage and I fired up the heater; within 40 minutes it hit 60º! Was so happy. Went over to my spanking-new tablesaw, and the side of my hand froze to it, like a double-dog-dare lick of a flagpole. Within a minute or so I was able to pull loose, and then I noticed a whitish film on the table. It all hit me; the air temp rose 80º quickly, the heater was billowing out CO2 and water vapor, but any block of cast-iron would take forever to warm up, collecting condensation all the while. And that included my tablesaw, my vise, all my planes, the car and truck.... Was so unhappy. I could've left at least one vehicle in the driveway during the 8 months of winter, and scrape the windows at 0600 every morning, but I realized my dream of a heated shop, just wasn't going to happen. When I bought this place in UT, I made sure it had room in the basement for a shop. TL;DR - If you're going to heat a shop during the winter, it needs to be heated 100% of the time. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Von Posted April 23 Author Report Share Posted April 23 On 4/22/2024 at 4:21 PM, Botch said: TL;DR - If you're going to heat a shop during the winter, it needs to be heated 100% of the time. Another issue I've heard of (I think it was on WoodTalk) is if your shop is cold and you open a door or window on that first warm Spring day, you can end up with condensation on everything. I find myself using my heater just to make it more comfortable on marginal days, say getting the shop from 40 degrees to 50. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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