minorhero Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 I paid 350 for my 1950 unisaw but I also spent approximately 45 days taking it apart, cleaning everything, repainting it, and putting it back together. I also probably spent another 100 dollars on parts and paint. For 600 dollars you should make sure that motor runs and runs well (put a hand on the motor when you start it, the torq might make it jump). I don't see a wire attached to it, so you should bring your own with a plug attached. If it is 220 volt but he does not have 220 in his shop or for some other reason says you can not test the motor then I would pass it by. Way too easy for that to be a blown motor and that being the real reason why he is selling the saw. If the motor runs pretty good then the next thing to check are cracks in the trunnions and other castings. After that ideally you would want to check runout in the arbor. Without the motor being hung and a blade attached testing that is going to be difficult so you might have to take that one on faith. If the motor is blown a replacement could run you 300+ for a used 3hp unisaw motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawSucker Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 That's more like it. Excellent contractor saw. I think it is pre x series saw, but I could be wrong. Lowe's sold these in early 2000's. It would have been in the $650+ range new. Not that it matters, you can not buy a new contractor saw like that for $600 anymore. I'd be suprised if Lowes sold a Delta saw that had a Unifence on it. The saws they sold were the imported Delta's with the T2 fence. The saw you found on Craigslist I would say was more around the $900 price range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawSucker Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 I paid 350 for my 1950 unisaw but I also spent approximately 45 days taking it apart, cleaning everything, repainting it, and putting it back together. I also probably spent another 100 dollars on parts and paint. For 600 dollars you should make sure that motor runs and runs well (put a hand on the motor when you start it, the torq might make it jump). I don't see a wire attached to it, so you should bring your own with a plug attached. If it is 220 volt but he does not have 220 in his shop or for some other reason says you can not test the motor then I would pass it by. Way too easy for that to be a blown motor and that being the real reason why he is selling the saw. If the motor runs pretty good then the next thing to check are cracks in the trunnions and other castings. After that ideally you would want to check runout in the arbor. Without the motor being hung and a blade attached testing that is going to be difficult so you might have to take that one on faith. If the motor is blown a replacement could run you 300+ for a used 3hp unisaw motor. Not everyone needs an Idustrial table saw in their shop, which is what the Unisaw is. Don't get sucked into the tool rat race. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harryangel69 Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 I'd be suprised if Lowes sold a Delta saw that had a Unifence on it. The saws they sold were the imported Delta's with the T2 fence. The saw you found on Craigslist I would say was more around the $900 price range. Lowe's sold the saw and three separate fence options. t2 unifence besimeyer The contractor saw and the besimeyer fence touched the $900 dollar mark. Trust me I did demos on quality and precision and I sold bunches. It is a hell of a saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawSucker Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 Lowe's sold the saw and three separate fence options. t2 unifence besimeyer The contractor saw and the besimeyer fence touched the $900 dollar mark. Trust me I did demos on quality and precision and I sold bunches. It is a hell of a saw. Then I would venture to say that with the Unifence it would price out about in the same, in the area of about $900. With the T2 fence it would of been less, I doubt $300 less though. It is an American made machine that has the same size cabinet, inner workings, and motor as Delta's earlier models that were and still are well received by the public, the only difference is the redesigned stand that included a dust ramp. The Delta 36-980 was an imported saw and came with a Delta T2 fence and an integrated mobile base. It was commonly sold for around $600. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry_in_SD Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 Agree, probably was a little too eager to sell the saw as it was getting in the way of my new toy! And yes, it was in good shape. Biesemeyer fence had been a 52" model but I had cut it down to about 36" due to space. $ 200 for that saw, I'd say someone got one heck of a good deal unless you never took care of it and it was almost a basket case. A Delta Contractor's saw with the less desirable Jetlock fence and without a mobile base is worth about $225 - $250. If your saw was in any decent shape at all I'd say with the Biesemeyer fence and mobile base that it was easily worth $475 or more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harryangel69 Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 This is my first post so bare with me. I am EXTREMELY new to woodworking and looking to buy a half decent table saw. I actually had bought the craftsman 21833 (big mistake) I spent forever trying to adjust my miter slots parallel to the blade with no luck. There isn't enough adjustment in the trunions, so I am taking that back. LOL But I was at Lowes the other day and seen a Porter Cable pcb270ts. and Also like the Ridgid R4512. My biggest worry about the Ridgid is the fact that it looks identical to the craftsman I am taking back. Has anyone here used either of these two saws? And what would your suggestion be? Has any of this been any help? What are we thinking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mking1@sbcglobal.net Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 My understanding of that craftsman hybrid saw is that you don't make the adjustment by moving the trunion. You loosen the tabletop and make small adjustments by pivoting top. Miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 My understanding of that craftsman hybrid saw is that you don't make the adjustment by moving the trunion. You loosen the tabletop and make small adjustments by pivoting top. Miles. That's true of the Steel City/Orion made saws that have the yoke style cabinet mounted trunnions (22104, 22114, 22124, current 22116), but the 21833 has conventional table mounted trunnions which need to be adjusted directly....much harder to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwalter5110 Posted May 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Well, I know everyone was guiding me into buying a cabinet saw, but I realized it is just too much money for me to spend on something I only do on the weekends. So I went to Home depot and played around with the Ridgid, and went to Lowes and did the same with the Porter cable. Found the porter cable just seemed cheaply built to me. At least compared to the ridgid. Although I was afraid the ridgid would have the same problems as the craftsman. I got the saw home and built, and everything was dead on right out the box. I have used the saw for about a week now and honestly, for me I can't complain about the saw at all. Keep in mind I am VERY new to the whole woodworking. So at some point down the road I may NEED to buy a cabinet saw. But until then the ridgid seems like it will be a very good saw. But I do appreciate everyones input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harryangel69 Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Well, I know everyone was guiding me into buying a cabinet saw, but I realized it is just too much money for me to spend on something I only do on the weekends. So I went to Home depot and played around with the Ridgid, and went to Lowes and did the same with the Porter cable. Found the porter cable just seemed cheaply built to me. At least compared to the ridgid. Although I was afraid the ridgid would have the same problems as the craftsman. I got the saw home and built, and everything was dead on right out the box. I have used the saw for about a week now and honestly, for me I can't complain about the saw at all. Keep in mind I am VERY new to the whole woodworking. So at some point down the road I may NEED to buy a cabinet saw. But until then the ridgid seems like it will be a very good saw. But I do appreciate everyones input. Awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Well, I know everyone was guiding me into buying a cabinet saw, but I realized it is just too much money for me to spend on something I only do on the weekends. So I went to Home depot and played around with the Ridgid, and went to Lowes and did the same with the Porter cable. Found the porter cable just seemed cheaply built to me. At least compared to the ridgid. Although I was afraid the ridgid would have the same problems as the craftsman. I got the saw home and built, and everything was dead on right out the box. I have used the saw for about a week now and honestly, for me I can't complain about the saw at all. Keep in mind I am VERY new to the whole woodworking. So at some point down the road I may NEED to buy a cabinet saw. But until then the ridgid seems like it will be a very good saw. But I do appreciate everyones input. Thanks for the update. Congrats on the new saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lifesaver2000 Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 The 21833 is actually pretty easy to adjust. Once the 90 and 45 stops are loosened to allow sufficient movement, as I mentioned in my earlier post, it is just a matter of loosening three easy to get to screws, and a little tapping to get things where they need to be. Tighten the three screws and then adjust the 90 & 45 stops to where you want them as listed in the manual. I have never adjusted a cabinet saw, but did watch Marc's video where he was doing it, and from my experience the process didn't seem any more difficult on my saw than what he was doing. Since from all reports the 21833 and the R4512 are the same saw except for the mobile base and cosmetic differences, I would expect the process to be the same on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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