Michigan Chocolate Table

[Von]

I appreciate knowing others also make these mistakes and learning from them how to deal with them. Thank you for sharing.

[gee-dub]

A final top coat on the shelf and table top tomorrow, a little buffing out, and assembly.

[gee-dub]

. . . closer . . . 

[gee-dub]

Before I do the final finish work I want to drill the holes for the figure 8 connectors. The bar gauges come into play again to assure that I am square.

I use old gift cards to assure my clearance is centered to start for seasonal movement on these captured areas.

I did need to put just a touch of diagonal pressure on the open faced framework.

I was going to mark the holes, disassemble and drill but decided to go with an extended Vix bit and drill the holes in place. The tape is to protect the material from rub marks should I wander.

It will come apart again for the final finishing stages but I do get to get a look at what the table is going to look like.

[Von]

Great looking work Glenn! And I'm always impressed by how well you have each step thought out and hope it sticks in my own memory.

[Coop]

Looking darn good and good idea on squaring it up prior to securing the figure “8’s”.

[gee-dub]

There are always more things left to do before the finish line than you think. Posting more baby steps here but things get sooo slowww towards the end. Here I am aligning the figure 8 connectors for the top with the shelf affixed in place. I do these sort of steps right before I finish the finish and do any other detail work. That way I can fix anything I goof up during the final steps.

I use painter's pyramids, deodorant toppers, and hockey pucks for assembly / finishing support. I have also found 45 degree off cuts from mitered panels to be useful for narrow or awkward pieces.



I keep a bunch of them in the bottom of one of the rolling tables.

Ta-da.

I am a dumpster-diver. I scrounged a big roll of these paper squares from a shipping place. Once the roll gets down to the last few dozen they swap it out and recycle them. I asked if I could have a roll-end, they said yes, and I have been using them as throw-away drop cloths for years.

When it comes time to finish the finish, these are my usual suspects for that process. With 1500 or 2500 grit stuff you can buff out shiny spots, disguise weird chatoyance from reversing grain and so forth.  The raking light is something you should always have on hand.

Here is the top after buffing out a clear lacquer top coat and adding a paste wax finish..

Same for the shelf.

I know I am really "done" when I land the date medallion.

I promise the next pics will be with it in place . . . 

[Ron Swanson Jr.]

Just for kicks,i looked up the word "meticulous". 

The definition was a link that took me to your projects. 

 

Great job, sir. Always educational and inspiring!!

[gee-dub]

You guys are too kind.  I'm just bumbling forward on the honey-do list.  I think this one is about finished.  At least I am at the stage where I start putting tools and supplies back where they go. Other than a Costco run today my goal is to put the shop back in shape . 

[fcschoenthal]

On 10/26/2025 at 8:29 AM, gee-dub said:

I know I am really "done" when I land the date medallion.

Do you make the medallions yourself, or do you buy them somewhere? You probably go through a bunch as many projects as you put out.

[gee-dub]

I buy them very reasonably from a local person who does such things.  LOML and I always try to spend our money in our own community when we can.  I also patronize folks on the forum for things that are in their wheel house.  One hand washes the other and all that  

[Coop]

@gee-dub, I’m pretty much a simpleton when it comes to finishing. Two to three coats of ARS gloss and final coat of ARS satin, followed by a rub with a brown paper bag to remove the nibs. I can only imagine the luster that the paste wax finish gives. Is this something as simple as the old Johnson’s and the Minwax or is there a formula that you use? 

[gee-dub]

@Coop - Yes; right out of the can Johnson's Paste Wax.  Fortunately I just happened to walk into Lowes when they were clearancing Johnson's Paste Wax at the time of its demise and bought all they had for a couple bucks per can.  I also use Renaissance Wax on smaller items but absolutely agree that this is a choice, not a requirement.  If your surface looks good . . . it is good.  I have just developed a habit over the years of expecting a certain, satin gloss, sort of look.  When (or should I say if) I run out of JPW before I run out of gas we'll all get to discover how I handle that. 

[Coop]

Hopefully their Johnson’s runs out before your Johnson’s does!

[curlyoak]

On 10/26/2025 at 9:29 AM, gee-dub said:

have also found 45 degree off cuts from mitered panels to be useful for narrow or awkward pieces.

 I have several left over cove molding that fit the bill.

[gee-dub]

I have a few of my hand screws leather lined for when I want to grip things without damaging them.

This piece is a bit top heavy so I clamp the base to the bench prior to adding the shelf.

I carry the top in separately and screw it on in place. And there you go.

[Von]

Great job. It looks amazing. I love the double live edges and the proportion between the two. It's amazing how useful tables this size are.

[Mark J]

22 hours ago, Von said:

I love the double live edges and the proportion between the two.

It looks great!