Michigan Chocolate Table

[Coop]

Great idea @curlyoak! 

[wtnhighlander]

For an intersection that fully crosses the joint, I find that stopping the round-over or chamfer at equal distances from the intersection on all sides has a pleasing appearance of its own, and I sometimes leave it, rather than blend it.

[gee-dub]

Time to lay in a base color coat.  Walnut lightens over time so I set the color where I want it to stay.  IIRC this is the only material I do this for.  The Popsicle stick with the marks on it allows me to quickly pour an even ratio of finishing materials.

I need to do some hand work on the stand but the open sided construction of it makes it a bit delicate after glue up.

I cut a scrap of plywood and use some face frame clamps to add a temporary stretcher.

Now I can move it around the shop and onto and off of work tables more confidently.

If you guys have not tried these soft ROS interface pads, they are great for curved or natural edge surfaces.  They allow the abrasive to follow the contours.  The downside is that they block a lot of airflow so wear your respirator.

I now have a base color coat on both slabs, both sides.

While that cures I will take after the stand.

[fcschoenthal]

On 10/16/2025 at 12:53 PM, gee-dub said:

If you guys have not tried these soft ROS interface pads, they are great for curved or natural edge surfaces.  They allow the abrasive to follow the contours.  The downside is that they block a lot of airflow so wear your respirator.

I fully agree. They really bend around the curves.

I have the little Festool sander and a "soft" pad for it that I use with mesh sandpaper. It at least has the airflow built in. I got an email today saying that Festool is coming out with ½" thick sanding pads in Nov with the grit already attached. Not sure how I feel about paying $2 apiece for them though. I'll probably try them out and then go back to the way I'm doing it now.

[Ron Swanson Jr.]

On 10/16/2025 at 12:53 PM, gee-dub said:

Time to lay in a base color coat.  Walnut lightens over time so I set the color where I want it to stay.  IIRC this is the only material I do this for.  The Popsicle stick with the marks on it allows me to quickly pour an even ratio of finishing materials.

I need to do some hand work on the stand but the open sided construction of it makes it a bit delicate after glue up.

I cut a scrap of plywood and use some face frame clamps to add a temporary stretcher.

Now I can move it around the shop and onto and off of work tables more confidently.

If you guys have not tried these soft ROS interface pads, they are great for curved or natural edge surfaces.  They allow the abrasive to follow the contours.  The downside is that they block a lot of airflow so wear your respirator.

I now have a base color coat on both slabs, both sides.

While that cures I will take after the stand.

@gee-dub can you shed some light as to the finish cocktail that those tints are going into? I

[gee-dub]

On 10/16/2025 at 4:05 PM, Ron Swanson Jr. said:

@gee-dub can you shed some light as to the finish cocktail that those tints are going into? I

Without trying to be secretive at all . . . the base is a 1:1:1 mix of mineral spirits:BLO:McCloskey's 7509 Gloss Spar Varnish (the wipe on / wipe off process yields a satin finish). I used to use Cabot's Gloss but availability in SoCal has gotten sketchy.  California is our third largest state but is long and skinny so whenever we go east (read Vegas) I will pick up some of the products that our local government has determined will undermine society and cause civilization to come crashing down around our shoulders . . . did I say that out loud? .

But I digress . . . I take a stick that is taller than the vessel I am using.  I mark it off with an indelible felt marker at the ratios I am after . . . most often 1:1:1.  I drop the stick in the jar and pour the five (three sir!) . . . three, ingredients in.  For walnut I use some Transtint Reddish Brown.  Depending on the base color of the wood I will add a bit of Black or Blue.

This is where having scraps of your primary material benefits you.  You get to "test" without penalty .  Walnut comes in everything from almost Holly-White to nearly the red of Red Oak.  I try to select my material from a common color group but, I know that walnut will lighten over time if not colored.  This is a good / bad thing.  It s good in that I know I will add some color (whereas I usually do not) and bad in that I need to color some areas a lot and some areas just a bit.  Once you get used to the dance you are able to get a decent result prior to the top coat.

For many other materials I am pretty much on a 1:1:1 mix.  Like cherry:

Sapele:

or Pecan:

It's the same Witches Brew without the dye.  It let's the material present well.  You will notice in some of my journals I spend a day or two selecting material from the racks.  I really like letting the wood be front and center so I don't mind having an extra cup of coffee while I ponder what boards to use.  This sounds a little pretentious but I swear I am just a stumble bum wandering around the shop and getting lucky now and then.

 

[Ron Swanson Jr.]

On 10/16/2025 at 6:44 PM, gee-dub said:

Without trying to be secretive at all . . . the base is a 1:1:1 mix of mineral spirits:BLO:McCloskey's 7509 Gloss Spar Varnish (the wipe on / wipe off process yields a satin finish). I used to use Cabot's Gloss but availability in SoCal has gotten sketchy.  California is our third largest state but is long and skinny so whenever we go east (read Vegas) I will pick up some of the products that our local government has determined will undermine society and cause civilization to come crashing down around our shoulders . . . did I say that out loud? .

But I digress . . . I take a stick that is taller than the vessel I am using.  I mark it off with an indelible felt marker at the ratios I am after . . . most often 1:1:1.  I drop the stick in the jar and pour the five (three sir!) . . . three, ingredients in.  For walnut I use some Transtint Reddish Brown.  Depending on the base color of the wood I will add a bit of Black or Blue.

This is where having scraps of your primary material benefits you.  You get to "test" without penalty .  Walnut comes in everything from almost Holly-White to nearly the red of Red Oak.  I try to select my material from a common color group but, I know that walnut will lighten over time if not colored.  This is a good / bad thing.  It s good in that I know I will add some color (whereas I usually do not) and bad in that I need to color some areas a lot and some areas just a bit.  Once you get used to the dance you are able to get a decent result prior to the top coat.

For many other materials I am pretty much on a 1:1:1 mix.  Like cherry:

Sapele:

or Pecan:

It's the same Witches Brew without the dye.  It let's the material present well.  You will notice in some of my journals I spend a day or two selecting material from the racks.  I really like letting the wood be front and center so I don't mind having an extra cup of coffee while I ponder what boards to use.  This sounds a little pretentious but I swear I am just a stumble bum wandering around the shop and getting lucky now and then.

 

My GOD you do nice work! 

Thanks for that, BTW. I'm trying to get a little better in the finishing department. Are you wiping that on then?

 

PS i had no idea that pecan was so blonde. The pecan industry in the upper Midwest is... Right up there with pineapples and mangoes. 

It's beautiful!!

[gee-dub]

@Ron Swanson Jr. - Yes it is a wipe on / wipe off process.  I mix the liquids, stir them with a stick (and stir them regularly throughout the process), I use a piece of rag or a section of paper towel and apply the finish by rubbing it on in circles more or less.  I get a good distribution until the surface remains wet.  I avoid flooding as that requires way too long for curing. 

I have done flooding methods in the past but find no benefit from the prolonged curing periods .  I have a Maloof pedestal table that stood in my spare bathroom for a month before I could rub it out.

That was about all I wanted to do with that method .

So, in short . . . wipe on, wait about 20 minutes (in my desert basin environment) and then wipe off.  The use of a gloss varnish component works out as the wipe off step turns the gloss to a satin appearance.  Of course this is only a benefit if you want a satin appearance .  I generally do.

P.s. 3 or 4 coats is the norm for me.  I judge it as I go.

 

[Coop]

I am in awe of your work and amused at your stance!

“ I will pick up some of the products that our local government has determined will undermine society and cause civilization to come crashing down around our shoulders . . . did I say that out loud” 

[gee-dub]

On 10/16/2025 at 6:41 PM, Coop said:

I am in awe of your work and amused at your stance!

“ I will pick up some of the products that our local government has determined will undermine society and cause civilization to come crashing down around our shoulders . . . did I say that out loud” 

Yeah, I am a bit of a "chuckle-head".  I try not to take things too seriously and have that normal "home state pride" thing.  But I cannot defend the coo-coo stuff that we do out here on the left coast.  I love it and would never leave but there are times when it is trying .

[Ron Swanson Jr.]

@gee-dub thanks, you get spectacular results with that process. 

One question - is there a reason why you go with a spar varnish for indoor furniture? I'm sure you have your reasons, can you share?

[gee-dub]

@Ron Swanson Jr. - I'm no rocket scientist on this stuff.  I think Jeff Jewitt or Peter Gedrys mentioned modified phenolic resins in one of their books back in the day.  I landed on Cabot's which uses long chain modified phenolic resins and other nasty high VOC stuff.  

When Cabot's became hard for me to find I wandered the internet and found people who had decided that McCloskey's was very similar in results and workability.  Being my typical lazy self I accepted the trials of others and gave McCloskey's a try.  It has worked well for me.

Spar varnish versus regular varnish is a subject you can find articles on.  I believe Marc wrote one at some point.  Ah, here it is.  Anyway, basically spar is more of a marine or exterior product.  I have found it to be a good interior product where multiple grandsons are concerned.  They seem to be able to run into or drop stuff on almost anything.  The flexibility of the spar tolerates this better than a more brittle finish.

A catalyzed lacquer would be my first choice if I were set up to apply it in small batches.  Again, being lazy, the setup and clean up for cat-lacquer exceeds the benefit for me.  The "Maloof" sort of wipe on / wipe off blend is something I have gotten used to.  Like shellac, once you make friends with it it is hard to move away from.  Like I say, no weird science here . . . just familiarity.

[Ron Swanson Jr.]

I was under the impression that spar was just poly with uv inhibitors, which is why i asked. And, like 99.99% of my woodworking knowledge, I have zero idea if it's actually true or not

 

Thanks again sir!

[Mark J]

13 hours ago, gee-dub said:

I need to color some areas a lot and some areas just a bit.  

Do you adjust the amount of tint in your "witch's brew" for each area?  Or do you apply more coats to increase the color where needed?

[gee-dub]

One of the cool things about dyes is that more coats equal deeper color.  Once I add dye to the 1:1:1 mix it is pretty fixed in the result.  If I am color correcting for sapwood or other deviations I do that with straight dye in denatured alcohol prior to applying the main finish.

This all sounds much more involved than it is.  I have touch up pens in various colors, acrylic paints, and so forth.  These get used for those odd spots that, despite your best of intentions (no Pulp Fiction reference intended) get past you and have to be dealt with prior to the final top coat. 

In general I try to select my material carefully so that I can just slather the blend on and wipe it off.  Every now and then there will be a section of reversing grain, mineral stains, or small knots that I have filled.  These need a little extra love but there are people out there that are sooo much better at this than I am .  I am just a wood butcher trying to get by.

[BillyJack]

Nice work comes with patience fellers. Nice work…

 

I was asked one time how I got to be a furniture maker, patience and imagination..

[gee-dub]

On 10/17/2025 at 9:41 AM, BillyJack said:

Nice work comes with patience fellers. Nice work…

Amen to that.  Oddly I am not a patient man in most respects but I have the ability to wait as long as it takes to do things when it comes to making furniture !?!  If I pull a goofus move and spoil a part, I just step over to the rack and start making a new blank.  If that happened while I was changing the oil on the car I would loose it .

[BillyJack]

You may not have what’s needed in business, but do okay as a hobby woodworker..

 

Someone would ask what is the difference, if you don’t know you won’t make it in business…

[gee-dub]

Things start to slow down now as I am just adding finish coats and waiting a day or so in between. I cleared the bench off and laid down the base still reinforced with the false stretcher. This let me work in the profiles at the connecting points.

I put a dimple on the bottom of each leg. This helps the painter's pyramids not wander.

I pick up shower curtains at the clearance bin for a buck. They make good drop cloths.

And here is a first and second coat for the base.



Another nice thing about this wipe-on / wipe-off method is that if you missed a bit of glue or have a spot of lighter wood you can fix it before the next coat and they disappear.

[gee-dub]

Just lumping along here.  Progress pics don't mean much during this phase.  It is just the same pieces being coated and re-coated.

[gee-dub]

Well that was disappointing. I am blaming no one but myself but I have had a lot of interruptions lately. Apparently I forgot to vacuum / blow / tack rag the shelf during an intermediate phase of surface prep. I managed to leave some spoil from the previous finish film in the pores of the wood. I then dutifully ran the next top coat over it. Came back the next day to this.

I tried a little specific area recovery with a card scraper.

But eventually decided to just sand it back and rebuild.

It's not that big of a deal as I am still going through the finishing steps on other parts of the project. It is just a little disappointing to lose all that invested time due to a moments distraction.

[Ron Swanson Jr.]

On 10/20/2025 at 11:37 AM, gee-dub said:

Well that was disappointing. I am blaming no one but myself but I have had a lot of interruptions lately. Apparently I forgot to vacuum / blow / tack rag the shelf during an intermediate phase of surface prep. I managed to leave some spoil from the previous finish film in the pores of the wood. I then dutifully ran the next top coat over it. Came back the next day to this.

I tried a little specific area recovery with a card scraper.

But eventually decided to just sand it back and rebuild.

It's not that big of a deal as I am still going through the finishing steps on other parts of the project. It is just a little disappointing to lose all that invested time due to a moments distraction.

I feel your pain sir. 

[gee-dub]

@Ron Swanson Jr. - Thanks man.  I had an attempt at spraying a failed waterborne finish back aways.  Again, my fault.  I was using a finish and an application method that I was unfamiliar with.  Hope to get better at that.  My current methods are generally automatic I have done them for so long.  Every now and then Lady Luck has to whack us in the back of the head to keep us humble.  I remember the line from one of the Robin Hood movie versions . . . "Thank you Lord for teaching me humility". 

 

[gee-dub]

Recovery complete. I am back to where I thought I was this morning. I really only lost a few hours and was able to do other work during the "wait" intervals.

[Ron Swanson Jr.]

On 10/20/2025 at 12:33 PM, gee-dub said:

@Ron Swanson Jr. - Thanks man.  I had an attempt at spraying a failed waterborne finish back aways.  Again, my fault.  I was using a finish and an application method that I was unfamiliar with.  Hope to get better at that.  My current methods are generally automatic I have done them for so long.  Every now and then Lady Luck has to whack us in the back of the head to keep us humble.  I remember the line from one of the Robin Hood movie versions . . . "Thank you Lord for teaching me humility". 

 

Humility and patience. 

Fortunately, healthy doses of each result in perseverance - an essential quality for anyone sick enough to get into woodworking ;)

Nearly every project I've ever done contains episodes of one step forward, two steps back. And while it stinks to rework anything, there's always a lesson in there. Glad to see yours was a minor setback and your back on track