Router jig


wgeils

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I think I've got myself in over my head. I am tackling a project that has a couple of steps that I can not figure out.

 

I need to make a bunch of repeatable angled dado's for a project I am trying to do. These cuts are intended to be a groove that a 1/4" piece of plywood will slide in and out of inside of a display case. I am having a hard time setting up a jig that will allow me to crisply make this cut in a repeatable fashion. That I then can flip to make the mirror cut for the other side of the case. Dose anyone have plans for a jig that I can build to help me do this? I am rather new to working with my router so assume that the only thing I've mastered on it is the on/off switch.

 

Also this cut must start 1/2" back from one edge of the board so I can not just run these over my dado blase on the table saw. 

 

The board being routed is 2 1/2" X 16 1/2" and the dados need to be at a 15-20 degree angle.

 

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

Wayne

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Are you familiar with Guide bushings? They mount to the base of your router like a hollow tube centered around the bit. If you used a 3/4" OD bushing and a 1/4" bit the offset would be 1/4" on each side. So you would make a template cut at your angle with a hole in it that is 1/4" wider (in both directions) and 1/4" longer on both ends than the dado. I draw lines on the template to help me get it in the exact position on my part then clamp it down. A plunge router would work best, but you could tip a router in carefully and slowly, then cut the dado. Test on scraps first!

I would cut the angles and a 3/4" spacer strip for the template and glue them together rather than try to cut the hole with a sabre saw. You need smooth sides and exactly placed ends to for the guide bushing to ride against.

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I would also add that you attach runners to either side of your template at the width of your workpiece.  Then you can slide the template down your workpiece and the angle will remain the same from cut to cut.  And clamp the template to the workpiece when you make the cut so it doesn't move.

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If you drill holes in the template to mount the runners to, don't counter sink the holes.  That way you can flip the template and remount the runners in the same places.

 

I've mounted runners with double stick tape, which held for most of the project I needed it to.  Took a few minutes longer, but worked well.

 

Another option would be to use 1x2 as framing for the router (one strip per side), but you'd need to reposition and reclamp every time.  (Fully customizable, but much more work.  which means it's more guide rail than jig.)

 

I'd make the base of the jig longer than the workpiece, and add a stop block so you don't extend too far.  Just use the router bit you plan on using to measure from the edge of the bit to the edge of the router base, and add that distance to the end of the jig.  (Then add enough for the thickness of your stop block.)  While the stop block is an extra step, it's a hallmark of the KISS approach that even pros rely on.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I think I've got myself in over my head. I am tackling a project that has a couple of steps that I can not figure out.

 

Other people have given you better advice than I could about how to solve your problem, but I'm a firm believer in getting yourself in over your head when learning new things. Once you dig your way back out (even with help) you're that much further along in your education.

 

Good luck with the rest of your project.

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