Art Deco iPod Dock


baok

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Last year, I built a bed out of cherry and I’ve been saving the odd cutoffs since then. I decided to use some of them for this project: an iPod Dock. I like listening to music via my iPhone and figured it would be easy enough to make something like a speaker box with the appropriate electronics. I have a small audio amp that I use for this and robbed two speakers from an old TV that bit the dust.

Here’s a photo of the front panel.

Posted Image

I just brought the front panel of the amp out as-is. I thought of taking the controls out and using them with some sort of vintage-looking knobs but there comes a time when you have to stop envisioning and start building. I spent enough time designing the Art Deco-looking speaker grills that were actually easy to cut out. I envisioned some that were better looking (to me) but these were actually doable without a CNC router so they won out.

I also toyed with the idea of adding a Bluetooth capability but the simple audio cable from the earbud jack works right now so that’s what I’m gonna run out through the top.

This wood has a bit of checking here and there; I’m not sure whether to try and fill the cracks or just leave them alone. They aren’t all that noticeable. This wood was rejected for the bed because although the grain near where the branches were is very cool looking, there are the aforementioned checks and it is the very devil to plane. I’ve been using a scraper often.

So this project is off and running. Shouldn’t be too long before I complete the box and begin on the finishing. I finished my bed with some Watco Danish Oil and a bit of shellac on some of the top-facing surfaces; I guess that since I want to put this thing in the same room with the bed, it would make sense to finish it the same way. But I seem to recall that most of the old radios I see from this period were finished with a shiny film finish like lacquer or shellac and the bed is more of a satiny feel-good finish.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Looks great. I especially like that joinery you implemented with the the round over. Although, I can't figure out looking at my phone if that vertical line I see to the left of the speaker is a round over thumbnail or a rabbet where the side meets the front?

 

 

Edit: Ahhh a computer screen....I can see it now! Thumbnail. I originally thought it was a crazy half lap joint with a mitered corner.  :blink:

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Markpelly: you touch on a significant issue that I have chosen to ignore. When I want to listen to music with my phone and I don’t want to use earbuds, I usually just use the phone speakers which (as you probably know) are teeny and don’t sound too good; therefore, anything at all will sound much better. So I was just going to attach two speakers directly to the front panel on the inside and give no thought to the acoustical properties. In fact, I wasn’t even going to enclose the back much less seal the cavity. We’ll see how it sounds. The speakers I have are two that I removed from an old TV so this cannot in any sense be considered high fidelity.

My workbench that I use inside the house is actually a hollow-core interior door and I’ve used a simple surface transducer as a speaker with great results. The hollow core of the door resonates pretty well. With that in mind, I just decided not to worry too much about a lot of math as far as the speaker enclosure is concerned.

Janello: you’re looking too closely. This is a project where I gave a lot of thought to the joinery but when I decided to put a large roundover on all corners to give it the Art Deco look, I decided that a butt joint would be good enough. Furthermore, I committed the sin of using biscuits for the joints. The case is pretty severe looking in that sense but with the edges rounded over it all works out pretty well. The butt joint line falls right where the roundover ends so it (to me) doesn’t look as ugly as a butt joint might otherwise look. If it weren’t for the large roundover, I would have used some actual joinery.

My overarching goal was to get the project done in an expedient manner – hence the biscuits. I actually like biscuits when I just need to stick something together. Nicer looking than pocket screws. We all make choices whenever we’re not following a drawing and I’m always interested in the decisions other people make and why. I learn a lot in this way. I lean towards getting the project done while maintaining the look I want when looking at it from the most common sightline – in this case, straight on.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Markpelly: you touch on a significant issue that I have chosen to ignore. When I want to listen to music with my phone and I don’t want to use earbuds, I usually just use the phone speakers which (as you probably know) are teeny and don’t sound too good; therefore, anything at all will sound much better. So I was just going to attach two speakers directly to the front panel on the inside and give no thought to the acoustical properties. In fact, I wasn’t even going to enclose the back much less seal the cavity. We’ll see how it sounds. The speakers I have are two that I removed from an old TV so this cannot in any sense be considered high fidelity.

My workbench that I use inside the house is actually a hollow-core interior door and I’ve used a simple surface transducer as a speaker with great results. The hollow core of the door resonates pretty well. With that in mind, I just decided not to worry too much about a lot of math as far as the speaker enclosure is concerned.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Honestly I just posted it in case it was something anyone was interested in. I have actually never built any speakers but I think it is pretty interested. 

 

Maybe in the future you might want to check it out *shrug*

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Greg, Obviously it's obvious to others (since no one else has asked) how you made the slots in the front. I can only guess you made a template and used a collar in your plunge router?

Now, back to the obvious to me: Great Job!!

 

If he was without a router, I could assume you could drill a hole the width of the slot and then use a coping saw to cutout the rest.

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