Diagnose consistent error while edge planing

[Tony Wilkins]

So I've noticed that when I edge plane that I invariably end up with the side closest to me higher than the other.  What could cause this.  I use the finger-fence grip and keep the center of the plane on the center of the board.  I'm wondering if the fact that it is held high in my Moxon vise might be the reason.

 

Ideas?

[Llama]

Practice. Or set your plane to compensate for the error. Then practice more.

[G S Haydon]

I think this is quite common Tony, I find myself doing the same sometimes. Using my forward hand as a fence you can use your fingers to adjust the squareness. You could always make a long grain shooting board to remove the burden in the short term.

[Tpt life]

This tends to happen to me when changing arm angle. It is more natural to push than to pull with the arms. This puts more pressure on the outward edge. I can reduce this effect when the project allows me to lock my arms and walk along the project. I don't worry so much when the plane sits on a wide board but rather when the plane is wider than the work piece. I realize you are talking a trending backwards to mine but I think the principle might apply?

[Tim Kohl]

I had to slow down and put less pressure on my front hand.  Slowing down  on narrow boards is most important for me anyway.

[CStanford]

I've been doing this for years on every bench I've ever used.  It's no big deal.  I just make an extra pass or two (or however many it takes) with the plane scooted to the high side every Xth pass down the edge.  Sometimes I will purposely knock that part of the edge down lower on the first few full passes and then plane normally for a few passes more and the edge will be dead perfect.  Depends on the mood I'm in and how well I sawed the board.

 

I process all my lumber strictly by hand and 95+% of the lumber I buy is in the rough.  I have no jointer, planer, or tablesaw.  My electric tools consist of a grinder, lights, and a lathe.

 

Don't worry about it. It's nothing that needs 'diagnosing' or 'extra practice.'  Carry on with your woodworking. 

 

Every woodworking manual worth reading covers what to do about this same thing under the assumption that it will happen and happen more often than not.

 

Striving for perfect execution of something like this is truly a nickle holding up a dime.  Fix the edge and move on.  It's about woodworking, not being a board-planing expert.

[Tony Wilkins]

Thanks for all the help.  I have become pretty adept at knocking down the high side with a cambered blade.

[wdwerker]

Have you seen the plane 2 edges at once trick ? Even if you get slightly off of 90 they will complement each other and you still get a clean joint. Practice and make sure your boards are going to have the best faces oriented the same way.

[CStanford]

Thanks for all the help.  I have become pretty adept at knocking down the high side with a cambered blade.

 

That's all you need to do.  Woodworkers from time immemorial have been doing the same thing.  Again, not a problem to be "fixed;" you've already fixed it.

 

All my bench plane irons have some degree of curvature or another, all for knocking down inequities by sliding the plane to one side or the other, face or edge, doesn't matter which.

 

I'm about to glue up a top for a relatively small walnut hall table; a three-board glue up for a top a little over 14" wide..  A bread-n-butter job.  I GUARANTEE you that the edge closest to me will plane out initially higher.  I'll slide the plane over for the 'fix' and glue 'em up.  Bip, Bap, Done. 

[TheFatBaron]

One other thing I can suggest - keep your thumb on the toe of the plane, and change its positioning. Whether you're using your fingers as a fence or not, you don't really need much pressure at the front of the plane. Your thumb should be plenty strong to keep the plane from skipping.

 

Just keep your thumb on the high side, whether it's on your side, the far side, or changes as you move down the board. I forget where I saw the trick - multiple people here sent me multiple variations on it. But the light change in pressure is often enough for me.

[Tony Wilkins]

I'll try that thefatbarron.

[Argus]

Are you starting the plane at the end nearest you?

If so, try this technique taught to me by old school joiners when I first started out.

 

With a sharp , very sharp, plane blade, try starting at the farthest end, about 6" in and concentrate on taking a level cut. Check it's level and square. Next, move up a few inches and do it again. At this point, you are aiming the get the toe section sitting onto the bit you have just planed level, so that the bed must always sit square. Keep doing this until you reach the top end. The board should now be square. Next, level the whole thing flat.

 

After you have done this regularly it will become habitual and your muscular stance will be automatic.

 

Hope that this helps.