Tpt life Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 That thing is gorgeous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Looks awesome.. Some Arm-R-Seal would look good and not take a lot of time for curing.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 I really like that combination of materials. Nice job man! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Bailey Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 can't stand the smell but, doesn't spray lacquer dry/cure quickly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted December 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 The problem is gonna be waiting a day or 2 before reapplying. Not having an HVLP system isn't a good thing. My finishes are all usually rubbed finishes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Bailey Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 ahh same here. i would also think that the blo would amber that beautiful sycamore, maybe you are looking for that but... i've grown to love arm r seal, so I'll second that one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 The problem is gonna be waiting a day or 2 before reapplying. Not having an HVLP system isn't a good thing. My finishes are all usually rubbed finishes. If you crank the heat in your shop, you can do a coat in the morning and another coat before bed (talking Arm-R-Seal). That piece shouldn't require more than three coats, so you're looking at just a couple days. Or you could BLO it...but it will probably yellow that sycamore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted December 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Which Arm R Seal would you recommend? I'm guessing Top coat? https://generalfinishes.com/retail-products/oil-base-top-coats/arm-r-seal-urethane-topcoat#.VJGfUcABg I haven't used Arm R Seal. I've got the following stuff: Super blonde shellac BLO Tung Oil Walnut Oil General Finishes Polycrylic Gloss Standard Polyurethane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Yes, that's the right stuff. Super easy and quick and will look great. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Bailey Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 I use the semi-gloss but that's just a sheen preference, otherwise same stuff. and I've done exactly what Eric suggests - 2 coats a day in a warm shop (abt 12 hrs to dry). so easy to use too, if I can make it look good anyone can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted December 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Sounds like a trip to woodcraft after work is in order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 The shellac would be the fastest if you want a film finish, obviously. I've decided to never use shellac again until I have HVLP...as many times as I've tried, I just can't get it to lay down consistently. Stuff just dries TOO fast and I don't like it for wiping. I use satin Arm-R-Seal almost exclusively. I don't really dig the shiny, plasticy look. But like stb said, that's just preference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted December 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 I use the semi-gloss but that's just a sheen preference, otherwise same stuff. and I've done exactly what Eric suggests - 2 coats a day in a warm shop (abt 12 hrs to dry). so easy to use too, if I can make it look good anyone can Do you sand between coats? 600? 400? 320? wet or dry sanding between coats? I usually hit shellac with 600 between coats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 I usually light sand with 600 between coats just to get rid of the nibs.. I also usually get about 3 coats a day on but, I do make sure my shop is about 70 when I do that and try to do the first one pretty early in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted December 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Shellac is great for small parts as a wipe on. I learned on my Batman walking stick project that it was horrible for the spiraling in the design. I like satin finishes best myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Bailey Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 i'm the wrong person to ask about sanding between coats as I am just winging it so far. light sanding with 320 after first coat (dry) just to remove dust nibs, 600 after 2nd coat with a little mineral spirits/mineral oil for lube, and nothing after third coat. I haven't had a project yet where I wanted to really build up a finish so beyond that i'm probably clueless. but for this piece 3 coats would probably do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 I like 320 after the first coat, 600 thereafter. Light sanding, just knocking off the nibs. I use the 320 after the first one because it's the roughest and I find it faster. But you could get away with 600 for all coats. For my final coat, I like to thin the A-R-S 50/50 with mineral spirits. It self-levels much better and prevents wiping marks. Also it dries faster so offers less opportunity for dust to settle in the final coat. Wet buff with a 2000-4000 grit pad after it cures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted December 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 I've got abralon pads and micromesh pads. I use them mainly when I do pens and I want to get a crazy shine and do a CA finish. Would those do for the buffing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vyrolan Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 I use satin Arm-R-Seal almost exclusively. I don't really dig the shiny, plasticy look. Do you just go straight Arm-R-Seal on raw wood after sanding or do you use their Seal-A-Cell first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 I go straight to the Arm-R-Seal.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Yep, same as Kev. I see no reason to start with anything else unless you have a blotchy wood and you want to avoid blotch. I don't work with pine and "blotch" in anything else is what I call character. Cherry in particular...some people like that clean, even tone in cherry...I like the blotch. Makes it warm and rich and more organic, IMO. I embrace it. You'll see what I mean very soon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted December 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Thanks for the advice guys. Finishing is still my least favorite part. I enjoy sanding more than finishing... That's for damn sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comp56 Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 damp cloth works just after sanding to avoid blotching...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Not if you're using an oil-based finish. But it would raise the grain, so you'd have to deal with another round of sanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted December 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 I'm definitely not up for playing the grain raising sanding game. I sand to 320 and call it quits on this project. I sand my pens to 600, then I move to abralon pads and go to 4000, then CA finish, then the micro mesh wet sand to 12000, then plastx scratch remover followed by a buffing wheel with blue ultra fine compound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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