Router run out


Lockers

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Hello from down under,

I have a question for the experienced members of the group... How much run out do you expect from he armature of your router?

When I put a 2" flush trim bit in my router, I can measure 0.039" run out at the bearing with a DTI. What would you expect from a relatively new router?

Obviously the longer the bit, the more exaggerated the effect is, but what is common/acceptable in your opinion?

Thanks

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Welcome to the forum Lockers.

I'm sure as everyone gets up and running a more experienced member will chime in.

My question though is what made you check? Is it visible? When I was still a Mazda Tech we'd have engineers come in with brand new cars believing there was too much back lash or other non issues with the engine, transmission, and differential.

What made you want to check?

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I would think .039 thou. Was more than you should see even though  I have never checked one.

I have some questions though. Did you take the collet out to make sure there is no dirt on the inside and out side of the collet, plus inside the spindle.

If you checked on the guide bearing I would check again by rotating the cutter edges past the indicator.

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A cut with a sharp bit will tell all. All my 7518s, and 690s will run a perfect surface in one pass. The Triton I have never

would with any kind of pass. I have stuff to measure runout with, but never have on a router.

When cars used to have points in the ignition system, we used a matchbook cover in a pinch without a feeler gauge at hand. A matchbook cover is close enough to the required point clearance of .015. I think most people know abouit how thick that is. More than twice that in a router sounds like bearings are shot.

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I checked the runout because I bought a centering cone to centre the sub base (to align my guide bushings) and found it to be useless. I cleaned the collet and spindle, and then tried my 1/4 collet and that was the same. I hoped it was something simple but I get consistent results, no matter where I measure. The further I get from the collet, the greater the error. Hence my question to see if anyone here knew...

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I checked the runout because I bought a centering cone to centre the sub base (to align my guide bushings) and found it to be useless.....

 

Did you try another centering cone or bit? .040" runout at 2" from the collet sounds bad but translates to .002" runout at .1" from the collet, not great but not too bad IMO. Can you feel movement in the armature when you grab the bit and push on it? What router? It may be you're just getting what you paid for.

 

And how's the cut quality? Do you get chattering and rough cuts?

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I measured the runout 1" from the collet at 0.020". 0.001 straight off the spindle.

Pretty sure there's no movement in the armature but I'll have another look... Havent used it in a while. I just got it back from the Bosch repair agent but they think there's nothing wrong with it. Maybe there isn't. But I have no basis for comparison. It's a Bosch GOF 1600 CE. The 240v version of the MRP23EVS as I understand it.

Is it possible I have somehow bent the armature?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Try this:

  • Is there any adverse vibration from it in a no load full speed test with no bit in place? Remove the collet and nut before doing this.
  • Put in a router cutter with a largish diameter (3/4" would be good and a cutter length around 1.1/2" to 3" long). Tighten the collet with the nut and try the same test. Any vibration?
  • Then try a shallow dado cut (3/16" deep) on some stock. Again is there any adverse vibration?
  • Measure the dado width. How does it compare to the cutter diameter?
  • Are there any burrs on the inside or outside surface of the collet? Try a different collect if so.
  • Does the collet seat inside the spindle correctly?
  • Are there any burrs on the inside of the spindle?

If no vibration on any test and the dado measures ok (it will never be exactly the same) then the router is ok.

If not tell the Bosch service technicians what you have done and see what they offer.

 

I've found on some plunge router sub-bases (I assume you are using a plunge router attachment) that the guide rods do not always run true to the bushings in the body of the router. So when centering the guide bush it is impossible due to the excessive "waggle" given by the play in the guide rods. 

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Tested with both the 1/2" and 1/4" collets included with the router. Using the 1/4" collet I got 0.020" runout 1" from the collet (that's the longest 1/4" bit I have). Neither collet appears to have any visible defects not does the spindle.

 

I find that there is some vibration. Hard to say if it's adverse but I do find with larger bits there is obviously more, and that it increases as I increase the rpm.  

 

If I operate the router without a collet on the lowest speed (10000rpm) and lightly touch inside the spindle I can feel vibration.

 

If I insert my mlcs collect extension she vibrate like a b****. Even on the lowest speed, can't say I fancy actually using it.

 

Cut a shallow dado in some scrap poplar with my 3/4" x 1 1/4" CL bit (0.752"). Dado width measured 0.768.

 

I'd be interested to see what results others get? Maybe my expectations are too high...

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I've been doing this over 40 years and never measured runout. But there are lots of folks on here that surely have. Hopefully one will post some answers soon. I just judge things based on the quality of the cut.

 

 

Same here, but only for 20-something...   There are a lot of variables in the measurement.  How does it cut, without the aftermarket extension?   I don't like the extensions, but you could also try a test cut with it.

 

Try the test cut at different feed rates, too...   Too slow of a spindle speed with too fast of a feed rate can cause scalloping with many routers.  If the test cut isn't great, try different bits.  MDF is a great material, and it's cheap, for the tests.

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It's a hand held router. Your going to have some runout. If you don't you will in short order after a little use. The bearings are tiny. If you want more precision look at spindles and shapers. Routers are light duty construction tools not precision milling equipment.

 

Well, it seems I have an answer! Thanks for the input gents.

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