SawDustB Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 Hi guys, I'm in the midst of installing a router table into the right wing of my table saw. I bought the ridgid r4512, which has a convenient opening for a router table insert (part of how I talked myself out of the job site saw, with a bit of help from the forum :) I've put together a laminated top, with 1 inch of Baltic birch faced on both sides with Formica, and plywood ribs on the bottom to keep from sagging. The part I'm getting to now is cutting the plate opening. I'm comfortable with the process, since I had success with it on my old table. My dilemma is whether to reuse the insert plate. The one that I have is the cheap black one with yellow and red inserts that can be bought from HF, MLCS, or busy bee here in Canada. It's worked OK, but I'm considering trying to get something better (hopefully on a budget). What do you guys think of the kreg plate? It looks like a reasonable upgrade from what I've got. Is it worth the extra $25 for the levelers? I'm pretty comfortable with being able to route the correct rabbet for the plate. Any other suggestions? I'm not considering a lift because I don't want that much weight hanging on the fence rail, as I know it can sag if you're not careful. The router I'm putting in this is a variable speed fixed base pc690, since that's all I've got. I don't see getting anything much bigger anytime soon. Thanks! Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 I use a drop-in plate, and find no real need for a lift. I just pop the unit out of the table for bit changes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 I use a drop-in plate, and find no real need for a lift. I just pop the unit out of the table for bit changes.When you say that, is that a special plate you buy or a special way of cutting your thing to hold the plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDustB Posted August 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 That's the same way I do bit changes. Any of these plates will generally just pop out of the table, since they're usually just held in with gravity, sometimes with a magnet it two. With the Porter cable router anyway, I usually just unscrew it from the base to change the bit. I've never really found that to be much of a problem. The only reason I see a lift being nice is for easier height adjustment. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 When you say that, is that a special plate you buy or a special way of cutting your thing to hold the plate? 100% shop made. Plate is just a piece of plywood that drops into the recess in the table. A metal plate would be better, as I needed 1/2" ply to be stiff enough, and that limits bit height. I copied my design from one I saw on "The Router Workshop" on PBS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDustB Posted August 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 Well, I was over by Lee valley today so I just went and got the kreg plate and levelers. I don't think I'll regret it, vs making a new table with a so so insert in it. I'm still not convinced I needed the levelers, but my wife told me to just get them if it would make it easier. Who am I to argue? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDustB Posted August 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 I went to install the plate last night and it mostly went well... I didn't follow the kreg instructions that suggested using a flush trim bit with pieces of mdf on the surface and using a hole saw or forstner bit for the corners. I used guide bushings to make a template that was 5/16 bigger in all directions, then used another bushing to cut out the right size. Unfortunately, despite me adding some masking tape to try and get a tight fit, my cut out is about 1/32 too big. Any ideas to close it up? My first thoughts were gluing in some veneer, or putting edge banding on the inside of the hole. I don't think it'll take much, but I want to make sure the plate can't shift in use. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 If it were me, I would likely be more successful by first making the opening larger. Then trim it out with material wide enough to work with, and re-cut the hole, properly sized. Do it right, and your plate ends up with a nice looking frame around it. Of course, really being me, I'd probably ignore that 1/32, and just jam a wedge in the gap as needed. I'm lazy that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDustB Posted August 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 That's one option, but I don't really want to lose any more of the laminate. Right now it's a small enough gap to be unobtrusive. I may go the shim route (that's effectively what I was going to do with the veneer or edge banding). I also just discovered I had some polyethylene wear strip that may work. It'll have to wait until tomorrow. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDustB Posted August 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 I was able to get a pretty much perfect fit by lining the cut out with melamine iron on edge banding. The router plate now will sit there with just friction holding it, but it's not a super tight fit (it was too snug before I cut it out in the corners). I'm happy with the result, and its pretty close to invisible with the plate installed. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 Looks like a super great fit! Nice job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 Very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 Looks good, Nice save! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDustB Posted August 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 Thanks, guys! I'm excited to use it (and really happy I didn't need to remake the top). Just need to seal the plywood edges and get everything bolted into the saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weithman5 Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 i don't even have a platemy router table is an old counter top with a hole drilled through it. i lay this down on top of my table saw and the router fits through the gap in the wing. the base of the router is replaced with a 1/4" rectangle of plexiglass about 6x8 inches. toggle clamps hold this to the bottom of the table. to change height i just reach down and do it. easier than a lift bit changes are another issue as i have to pop the router out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weithman5 Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 oh, the whole gist of that is i am kinda jealous, your table looks nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDustB Posted August 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 Thanks. I'm trying to have this be the router table I'm going to use for the next several years, so I figure I'll eliminate the things that might prompt me to want to remake it (such as wanting a better plate). I even went for the fancy "granite top" laminate to jazz it up a bit. Now I just have to figure out a fence... My existing one will work for now, but it's kind of overkill on the saw (over three feet long). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDustB Posted August 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 I finally got everything bolted into the saw. It turns out my wings weren't quite straight, so i fixed that at the same time. I still have yet to route anything on it, but at least now I've got somewhere to put my drink without worrying about rust! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbutcher74 Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 Just curious. It looks like your cut all the way through the top. What holds the plate from falling through? Usually you route a ledge in the opening for the plate to sit in. Like I said, just curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDustB Posted August 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 Just curious. It looks like your cut all the way through the top. What holds the plate from falling through? Usually you route a ledge in the opening for the plate to sit in. Like I said, just curious. I used the Kreg plate levelers. They screw to the bottom of the top and have Allen screws that project up to support the plate. I couldn't find anything negative online about them, and they seemed like they'd make it easier. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbutcher74 Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 Cool! I guess I don't get out much, never seen those before. When I built mine I routed a ledge around the opening and threaded set screws from underneath to level my plate. Looks great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDustB Posted August 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 I was initially going to just route out the lip and install it that way, but these just looked easier. I've got the plate installed and leveled now, only took about 5 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legenddc Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 @SawDustB How's the Kreg plate holding up? I need to get an insert, can't decide between the Kreg, Rockler or Benchdog one. Or an aluminum or phenolic plate. Already bought the Kreg inserts you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDustB Posted February 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 @SawDustB How's the Kreg plate holding up? I need to get an insert, can't decide between the Kreg, Rockler or Benchdog one. Or an aluminum or phenolic plate. Already bought the Kreg inserts you have. I've really got no complaints. It hasn't sagged, it's still the same as when I installed it. I've been much happier with it over the really cheap option I had before. That being said, I'm sure any of the decent plates would have been fine. The Kreg was just a little cheaper and available locally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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