prov163 Posted December 25, 2016 Report Share Posted December 25, 2016 I made a version of Marc's pizza peel for a Christmas gift. I watched his video and decided to shape the edge with a rasp like Marc did. Never used one before. I had a cheap Nicholson rasp and while I'm pleased with the end result, I did a good bit of sanding to smooth the surface. I get the feeling the process might have been easier. So to my questions: 1. What makes an Auriou or Logier rasp better? I understand the "It's like the difference between a Buck Bros block plane and a Lie-Nielsen" argument. What I mean is in usage why is the hand stitched preferable to machine stitched? 2. For those of you who use rasps, riffles, etc regularly, what would you consider an essential kit? 3. Brand preferences. I actually enjoyed using the rasp so I'm serious about adding some to the arsenal. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted December 25, 2016 Report Share Posted December 25, 2016 1 hour ago, prov163 said: I made a version of Marc's pizza peel for a Christmas gift. I watched his video and decided to shape the edge with a rasp like Marc did. Never used one before. I had a cheap Nicholson rasp and while I'm pleased with the end result, I did a good bit of sanding to smooth the surface. I get the feeling the process might have been easier. So to my questions: 1. What makes an Auriou or Logier rasp better? I understand the "It's like the difference between a Buck Bros block plane and a Lie-Nielsen" argument. What I mean is in usage why is the hand stitched preferable to machine stitched? 2. For those of you who use rasps, riffles, etc regularly, what would you consider an essential kit? 3. Brand preferences. I actually enjoyed using the rasp so I'm serious about adding some to the arsenal. Thanks! I think you may be asking the wrong question. You needed a good bit of cleanup because the rasp was too aggressive. Like sand paper, raps should be used in succession from more to less aggressive. The least aggressive of the rasps leave a very close to sanding finish. To answer your question though, in theory, a machine cut rasp does not have random placement of teeth so it won't cut as uniformed. I have auriou and Nicholson rasps. The auriou feels better in hand. Both cut just as cleanly as the other if used in the correct orientation and succession. I also found the medium Nicholson to be about equal to a #8. Definately too course to go straight to sanding. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted December 25, 2016 Report Share Posted December 25, 2016 One of the problems with machine cut rasps, is that the cutting edges are uniform, and can lead you to file in a uniform manner. For a well cut uniform rasp to be used properly is to use them with a lighter touch. to much pressure tends to make them grab in a line. where a hand cut rasp doesn't want to go in any given line, therefore it's easier to put pressure on it and take it in any direction comfortably. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted December 25, 2016 Report Share Posted December 25, 2016 I sprung for a #9 and #13 Liogier rasp earlier this year. Very nice. The #9 is very aggressive and the #13 is easier to control but I do wish I had one that was finer still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barron Posted December 25, 2016 Report Share Posted December 25, 2016 I love my Auriou rasps. I have a 9/5 flat ( one side is 9, one side is 5), a 10 half round, and a 13 modeler, also half round. Those have met my needs for chair building and many other curved projects. Not cheap, but worth it. Curved work is a lot of fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Lang Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 Follow the rasp with a card scraper. That shaves off the hills left by the rasp. Bob Lang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prov163 Posted December 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 4 hours ago, Bob Lang said: Follow the rasp with a card scraper. That shaves off the hills left by the rasp. Bob Lang Great tip, Bob. I went immediately to sandpaper and went through six grits. The scraper would have been quicker, easier and much less dusty! I'll remember that for the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 You can also use a metal file between rasp and scraper, to save your thumbs some extra work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 If you get into the Auriou's I found the 6 Grain, 9 Grain and 13 Grain Modeler to be a nice set up. If you only get one to start, the 9 is kind of the jack plane of rasps. They are very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prov163 Posted December 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 Chet, that sounds like a good setup. Rough, finer and final shaping. What lengths do y'all find best for furniture work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 My 6 grain is 12 inches, my 9 grain is 10 inches and the 13 grain modeler is 7 inches. Also the Auriou's are left and right handed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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