Waldvogel Review Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 Just like the heading says I've been piecing together this interesting deal here. I'm not done yet It's a Dewalt 7480 saw mounted inside of a Solid Core Door 1-3/4" thick. I leveled it with a machinists straight edge and using some threaded rod. To wedge the thing square I used composite Door/jam shims (might have another idea for future adjustability) The fence is a Delta T2 30" fence The door is 32" deep and I do not want to cut off any width if I can help it. The rear rail is not currently mounted and the fence is just gliding across the table without the UMHW piece and the hook/clip that grabs the rear rail Do T-square style fences only rely on the rear rail for areas of the saw without a table? Would I be fine working without it? I tested to make sure the gap under the fence is very small and I can cut 1/8" plywood without it slipping under the fence whatsoever Any help would be great Thanks ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 Some fences actually clamp at the rear to prevent deflection, but that one looks like it may be ok without that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 Although I don't dislike the idea of what you've done, your saw top seems to be way unlevel with the "door top" in the first pic. Is that just from the angle of the pic that we're seeing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waldvogel Review Posted February 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 Some fences actually clamp at the rear to prevent deflection, but that one looks like it may be ok without that. Yea the T2 just has a little clip that barley grabs the fence as the front settles the clamping mechanism doesn't actually move anything on the rear fence It glides rather smoothly, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something on these biesmeyer fences Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 My Vega tee square fence only has a UMHW plastic block riding on the rear rail. The rear rail also helps support the right extension table. Some of those rear hooks keep the fence from lifting up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waldvogel Review Posted February 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 My Vega tee square fence only has a UMHW plastic block riding on the rear rail. The rear rail also helps support the right extension table. Some of those rear hooks keep the fence from lifting up. I did notice a tiny bit of lift when I initially clamp down but it goes right back I couldn't use downward clamping force off the fence for sure without something back there I wanted a vega originally They just were oversold and overpriced when I was purchasing a fence originally Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 If you need a feather board to hold down off the fence put a clamp on the back end of the fence. Check the distance to the miter slots front and rear before you rip to avoid the clamp pushing the fence out of alignment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waldvogel Review Posted February 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 If you need a feather board to hold down off the fence put a clamp on the back end of the fence. Check the distance to the miter slots front and rear before you rip to avoid the clamp pushing the fence out of alignment. That's a great idea ! I usually don't use vertical feather boards but I have a featherboard that rides in the miter slots usually I'll use it without it for now and if I have to figure out the rear clamp situation later I will Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmotjr Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 The DIY'er in me loves that table. Nice work! But like @K Cooper asked, I'm assuming in the first pic the saw isn't firmly attached to the table yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 11 hours ago, Waldvogel Review said: I did notice a tiny bit of lift when I initially clamp down but it goes right back In my limited experience this is normal for the T-2. It is a nice lighter weight t-square fence and seems well suited to your build. I don't recall any sort of rear rail clip or anything(?). My commercial Bies was made from pretty heavy stock, certainly heavier than the 14 gauge of the T-2. This weight alone would keep the fence on the table so the little bit of lift off with the lighter fence wouldn't concern me as long as it is in position when locked. Although not an "tank-like" as the commercial Beis or the many clones, I think you will find the fence will serve you well if used with good technique. Just as rambling info: the Commercial Beis has a small rectangle of Formica that ride across the saws table behind the blade. The newer versions use a piece of nylon or some sort of polyethylene. This polishes a line on the cast iron and I have seen some folks do this to avoid it. I now run a Bies-clone and the same line appears on the CI; it has never bothered me. I do clamp the far end of the fence tube when I am using fence mounted feather boards even though the fence tube weight is probably enough. I like a belt and suspenders when running tools the eat meat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waldvogel Review Posted February 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 The DIY'er in me loves that table. Nice work! But like @K Cooper asked, I'm assuming in the first pic the saw isn't firmly attached to the table yet? Yea, it's just braced enough not to fall in. That was before I had developed the leveling method. Even now I just ordered a 5/16" tap so I can thread the rods upward to keep the leveling adjustable in all 4 corners I also wanted to create something better to pinch the top in a square position and shift it back and forth other than the composite shims Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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