I would do 1/4" plywood for the sides of the cabinets, and veneer for the face frames. You can cover the plywood with the veneer. Depending on how clean the MDF is you might need to glue a thicker shop made veneer over the face frames instead of the thinner stuff.
Here is a how to on simple shaker doors using a table saw
the back slab with all the knots is upside down with epoxy in them. I was able to orient most of the defects to the bottom, there are two small ones on the top but I'll fill those after the final flattening.
One cool thing I've learned so far on this build, my old craftsman #5 that I could never get to take a good enough edge to take fine wispy shavings, will do work as a scrub plane. I knocked the corners off cave it a decent hand honing and it made short work on getting the bottoms flat enough. I'm really happy I can use it for something. It may be a 15$ plane but it was in my grandfathers tool box when we cleaned out his garage.
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Pass...it's a compact direct drive saw with a universal motor, short table, etc. "DD" in the suffix means direct drive.
These should have more potential...are any nearby?:
https://greensboro.craigslist.org/tls/5397769422.html (might need a fence)
Sharpening is a world all its own and pretty subjective. Buy some cheap stones that are atleast 2" wide preferably wider, and learn to sharpen free hand. It doesnt matter what they are. Diamond, water, arkansas, etc they all work well.
I wouldnt get too invested in any one system or buy any guides to start. Watch some vids (paul sellers and rob cosman), learn the ropes and get a feel for what your individual sharpening needs are, then you'll have a better idea what you really want.
Fwiw im currently using king water stones. Theyre cheap, they cut fast and give a great edge but they wear down quickly and require regular reflattening which is not really a big deal.
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