Milo Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 I am looking for new ideas on how to run my DC to the blade guard of my table saw. In the old shop I had a blade guard that hung from the ceiling, and the dc hung from a handy garage door guide into the blade guard. I am looking for an idea on how to hang the blade guard AND d/c over the table saw from the right side so it will be out of the way when I move the fence and push boards over the table. Any and all ideas are appreciated. Right now I am running with the idea of a 2 part microphone stand, a gooseneck flexible cable, and a length of hose to a new blade guard (Shark?) that I would make. Whatcha think? Milo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 Two decades of audio tech-ing leave me not trusting a mic stand to hold weight. What distance would you like to span and with what size/material hose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 I posted a few ideas in this thread a while back. I can't claim them as my own, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 There are several commercial solutions to this problem. If you don't want to buy one, I'd recommend imitating one, rather than re-inventing the wheel. Excalibur SawStop Exaktor If you do a Google search for table saw dust collection blade guard and select images, you'll see a bunch of commercial and home made solutions. Marc's got a slightly different style on his saw, but I couldn't find a pic with a quick search. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdgewaterWW Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 I just got a new TS (new 2 me) I was thinking the same thing, to make one. I found I think the lowest priced Table Saw Dust Collection Guard $180 http://www.pennstateind.com/store/TSGUARD.html They also sell the hood for only for $30, So hood, Mic stand maybe (x band manager) PVC pipe, hose, hose clamps and/or duct tape. That is as far as I got and back to other projects. Yeah Mic stands can only hold a few pounds, So our old band trick is to unscrew the post from the base and put on a 10lb barbell weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo Posted June 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 I had always intended to brace the base of a mike stand, if I go that route, I have experience with them. I hope to get a flexible gooseneck to mount on the end to hold the blade guard, and use Velcro straps to hold the hose to the stand. The majority of the hosing on the stand arm would only be the 1" to 1.5" type, so hopefully weight will not be a big issue. Here is another idea I saw. http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/shop-tours/aarons-workshop/?shop_type=standalone-2&shop_size=small Do you think all the support for this idea is in the metal tubing? Thanks, Milo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 Just out of curiosity, why is attachment to the ceiling no longer an option? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 ==> brace the base of a mike stand I've got several mike stands and lighting stands. I'm not sure how heavy duty you are talking, but i'd never use any of mine in that application. Simple reason -- things go bump in the shop... And I'd hate to bump the stand while performing a cut and have anything hit the blade... If you look at the commercial offerings, they are all heavy duty tubing and can withstand the occasional knock. I know the Excalibur is expensive, but a friend's luthier shop has one and he loves it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 I would leave the riving knife guard in tact and do a Dc drop with a spring balance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombarde16 Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 Color me interested in this thread. I've got a jobsite saw in a basement room. I've built a new base with a "big gulp" hood in the bottom and now I'm trying to figure out what to do on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo Posted June 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 C Shaffer, The ceiling is twice as high now, and the space is 1/4 of what is was. I have to come up with a new solution. Of course, with the smaller space, I suppose I could experiment with something WALL mounted that would swing out... hmmm... Particle Board, can you add a link to show an example of what you are talking about? Triple HHH. Call me crazy, but for stuff like this I always like to go with shop made. Thanks all, Milo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer_J Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 I've been planning on building this one for quite some time now... i just need to do it! my table saw is in the center of my shop and any arms would get in the way. http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/overarm_guard.shtml i think what don is talking about is similar to the design above with springs clipped to the metal arms which keep downward tension/ pressure on the table saw. A design i've also considered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 If your ceiling is literally twice as high then to wall mount is golden. Your whole assembly need not be wall attached but rather a cantilever could be easily supported with a diagonal upwards cable tied into framing. Am I making sense or should I sketch it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 A spring balance is a retractable cable that stays where you put it. I use them for screw guns and the like to keep from having to set down my screw guns, nailers, sanders cluttering the bench. You buy them based on weight 0-3 lbs is a good all around size. They don't work like your old drop light with the ratchet all you do with a spring balance is lift the tool. Where ever you stop is where it stays. Connect one to a DC drop going to your TS guard. Just lift the DC hose up and it stays where you put it. Attach the hose to a stiff rod like all thread and a heim joint then you can swing it up and out of the way when not needed. The uses for a spring balance is pretty much endless. Production plants use them at pretty much every work station. The small ones are inexpensive and beat messing around with shop made springs and counter balances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo Posted June 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Spencer, that's what I did in my old shop, only my design wasn't levered, it was an adjustable slide. I unscrewed the locking nut, raised or lowered the blade guard to where I wanted, and tightened down. It's not like the blade guard has to rise and fall over a hilly terrain or anything! Particle. Know where I can get one of those spring balances? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Little IR video but you get the idea. I buy them on amazon the prices are always good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo Posted June 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 BTW, Spenser, when did you steal my tablesaw?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Another vote for the Excalibur from me... A very well-made, perfectly performing tool. It's super easy to remove and replace, if necessary. In fact, I like this guard so much, I kept it when I changed cabinet saws. The purchaser of my previous saw tried to make it really worth my while, too... I've had the Excalibur for around 8 years, replacing a ceiling mounted shop-made version of the exact article posted by Spencer. If you move the saw at all, the ceiling mount is a pain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer_J Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 Milo, i stole your saw in january of 2013! A pretty sweet setup, i must say. You did a great job on the motor cover! Barry, any tips or tricks on the build or install? The only direction my table saw is moving is upward. It currently sits at 34" and i'm 6'5. Milo, You may not have seen the thread from brian q about an overarm for the sawstop but paul marcel did a great post on it. http://www.halfinchshy.com/2010/09/sawstop-overarm-dust-collection-with.html?m=1 Cant find the original post right now on my iphone. But worth a search. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo Posted June 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2013 Barry, that is one sweet system you have there. I need to look into that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 Barry, any tips or tricks on the build or install? The only direction my table saw is moving is upward. It currently sits at 34" and i'm 6'5. Ask your plastics dealer for scraps and offcuts... The real-deal shatterproof plastics can get expensive fast. Also, make sure your hanging system has a fast way to move the guard in and out of position, yet holds it firmly in place. Mr. Murphy says that as soon as you install a fixed ceiling mount, you'll want to use a tall fixture on the saw. I don't remember any real gotchas. Aside from the saw moving / alignment issue, which you don't have to worry about, it was a pretty straight forward build. I drilled and tapped for hex-cap screws to assemble it. My Badger Pond guard worked very well, in the guarding and dust grabbing department. I aligned the center of the dust hole slightly behind the "average" top center of the blade. Most table saws change the arbor distance from the front of the saw as the blade is raised and lowered. Some of the newer designs like the SawStop, move the blade up and down in the same plane, my previous General followed an arc. Check your saw and make sure to account for the location of the blade at both travel extremes when iinstalling the guard, so no contact surprises arise later. Regardless if it's on an arm or the ceiling, the guard will be light years ahead of anything that attaches to the splitter or riving knife. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo Posted June 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 In the same vain as overhead hanging items, has anyone used one of those spring balancers in conjunction with standard extensions cords? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 In the same vain as overhead hanging items, has anyone used one of those spring balancers in conjunction with standard extensions cords? What are you thinking of doing. A spring balance works on weight so if you change the weight you have to change the tension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo Posted June 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 What are you thinking of doing. A spring balance works on weight so if you change the weight you have to change the tension. That's what I was wondering. My thinking was more in terms of holding up the hose to the blade guard, rather than holding the blade guard itself. Take a Shark type blade guard, which rides on the splitter. Would it be useful to use a spring balance to hold the vacuum hose up and out of the way of the table? Hang it with hooks, and I would think it might be an easy way to get everything out of the way after use. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 That's what I was wondering. My thinking was more in terms of holding up the hose to the blade guard, rather than holding the blade guard itself. Take a Shark type blade guard, which rides on the splitter. Would it be useful to use a spring balance to hold the vacuum hose up and out of the way of the table? Hang it with hooks, and I would think it might be an easy way to get everything out of the way after use. Thoughts? Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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