Which 220 volt outlet to install?


otis

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I'm looking into upgrading to some 220 volt tools soon and would like to have the outlets installed before hand. I looked at the big box store and there are way to many types of plugs and outlets to choose from. Do most 220 volt tools have the same type of plug on them?

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The different 220/240 volt plugs are for different amperages. The bigger "Y" shaped plugs are for higher amps the smaller "T" or "L" shapes are lower amperages. Best to check the tools you are considering and local codes may be different. Some 220/240 tools do not come with a cord, you have to buy or make an appropriate one to meet the code required specs.

I like Pass & Seymour brand plug ends. The cost a bit more but I have some that are over 25 years old that are still in good shape. Bought a new one recently and the quality is the same.

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The answers is No.  The plug type changes with the AMPs needed for the power tool, like 15 amp, 20 amp, 30 amp. Also the breaker should match. I would make a wish list of the power tools You would like to buy and check the online manuals for the power needs.

 

Some of the Pro's here maybe have a better answers or maybe send a message to HHH,wdwerker Vic, Marc etc. that have a shop full of 220V tools.

 

Edit: i see as I was typing this post, You got a great reply from a Pro.

Edited by Doug-EdgewaterWW
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A lot of 220 v tools are on dedicated circuits. For 220 I prefer to buy stranded spools in various colors to pull through EMT. You can, with a single pull, supply for a few circuits, organize boxes for drops, coil your wire, and only energize it on need. I would essentially pre wire but create the drop and circuit as I install the tool. That way I buy a breaker and recept that are rated for and matched to the tool. You likely have a plan for tool locations that will not change substantially if you are not in a standalone shop.

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If the tool is not going to be moved, I'd just hardwire it to the box.  That's the way I did my big tools.  I also agree with conduit and stranded wire.

 

  For tools that will be moved, I use Hubbell twist-locks on a short piece of SO coming out of the tool's switch box, and SO drop cords for them.  That way, when we move the tool, we don't have a long length of wire to deal with too.  My temporary poles have twist lock receptacles for the big drop cords.  Most of this stuff is over 30 years old, and still works fine.  updated to note:  I just checked the prices on type SO wire, and I'm glad I don't need to buy any now.

 

If the tool has a plug, just get the receptacle that fits that plug.

 

Electrical equipment companies sell this stuff for about half the price of the big box stores.

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Hubbell is another brand of plugs, outlets and such that I have used and would buy again! If you choose to pull stranded wires make sure of the maximum amperage allowed for the length you have pulled. 10 gauge wire can only handle so many amps at longer distances from the panel. I have done my own electrical work over the years, but I always meet or exceed code. I have pulled 10 gauge wire where code only specified 12 gauge , just in case I needed to put a bigger tool in that location.

Code is only a minimum requirement. Don't do less or equipment and personal safety could be at risk. Careful attention to nicks in insulation and grounding at every junction is important too.

If any of this feels intimidating either learn more or hire an electrician.

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  • 3 weeks later...

the appropriate plug is determined by amperage and voltage, and usually there will be serveral options of different configurations.  Most of those configurations have to do with weather its a 3-wire systems or a 4-wire system.  And most of that has to do with the ground and neutral.  As long as the plugs rated for the voltage and ampacity any plug will really work as long as the plug (male end) matches the recepticle (female end).  If you have any other questions I can go a little deeper, just email me as I am not on here as often as I used to be cause of School. 

 

 

 

Nyles

 

 

PS - you can hardwire your equipment and save the cost of the plugs, but if you do that you need to have disconnects installed OR the breaker panel needs to be in the same room.... OTHERWISE the plug IS the disconnect and thats why using a plug gets you around that NEC requirement.  Nothing end of the world, but thought id mention it in case you want everything upto code.

 

.

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May sound crass, but find out what your size circuit your prospective tools requires. What tools and circuits will be running concurrently ( lights, fans, air cleaners, dust collector, etc) then hire a good, qualified electrician. Several reasons, one; you should have panel sized for your load, including mains feeder to panel. Two; balancing load on both legs in the panel is important especially with non comercialsingle phase(hence finding out what runs concurrently). Three; Insurance won't cover anything if for some reason you have a fire and your work was not done to code or by qualified electrician. I've been in the residential construction/ carpenter field most of my life and a qualified "entertainment electrician". I have seen some scary stuff and I don't want a fellow woodworker injured or in a pickle to save a buck. Not worth it. Don't mean to lecture, but if you get that "do I really know what I'm doing" feeling, stop and do it right. Electricity will bite. Just getting the proper connector spec'd can lead to false sense of doing it right. Now go buy that 5hp 16" jointer and build some cool stuff!:)

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Here is what the inspector that inspected my shop said code is.

 

The outlet should match the circuit and 30a circuit gets a 30a outlet. The inspector should see that the outlet matches the breaker and wiring. So if you need a twenty amp outlet for your table saw change the end of the cord to a 30 and use the 30. You should be able to tell just by looking at the wall outlet exactly what size the circuit is without looking at the panel.

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+1 on nyles' advice. Hardwire and save money or go hubbel twist lock. If insurance is an issue then follow code and maybe pay an electrician to come check it out for an hour of their time. I know that most inspectors like to see 4 wire setups as opposed to 3 wire.

+1 on particle boards advice. Match the breaker with the wiring with the plug according to what your tool says.

+1 on c shaffers advice. I ran my whole shop with emt and if i ever need to change or add anything, i can just slip wires in or out depending on the nec wire fill table and i dont have to move any tools or shop fixtures out of the way.

Hubbel is my go to for plug anything. Their quality is reliable and fit and finish is best i've found for commercial environments.

Please check out your local electrical supply place, most of the people who work at them are kind of flat and not "friendly" but the prices are mostly better and the quality will be much better.

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Phase balance with 220v is a complete non-issue as the breakers are two pole and self balance. The only case in single split phase service where you can be out of balance is with poorly loaded single pole 110 breakers.

True. Wasn't too clear on that, but if all your lights, fans, air cleaners, other 120V house stuff happens to be mostly on one leg is what I was getting at, so i think we agree:)

I run three phase from generators a lot in my day job and I'm prob a little over obsessed about balanced power.  

 

Main point: do it right. Thats all

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  • 2 weeks later...

Code requires that for any circuit, the breaker has to be rated for 125% of the load.  For example, if you install a dust collector which will draw 12 amps, the breaker would have to be rated for 15 amps- the full 12 and an additional 3 amps- 25% of the 12.  Also, the wire has to be properly sized.  You can't just run 14-2 Romex for what may be a 20 or 30 amp circuit since it's only rated for 15 amps.  As far as the actual plug goes, it doesn't matter which style you use as long as you aren't exceeding the current rating of the plug. Not to sound harsh, but electrical work is not just a matter of pulling the wire and tightening the screws and wirenuts.  If it isn't done properly, you could burn your shop down.

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Please note**** I am not being critical of what you're saying or implying that it's wrong.  It likely is "best practice."  But we should, in general, be careful about stating "code requires."  To the best of my knowledge there is no such thing as a national building code.  Regulations ("code") will vary from locale to locale and what may sound like best practice in your area may not be stringent enough in another and may be more than required in others.

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The code governing electrical installations is the National Electrical Code, put out by the National Fire Protection Assoc. While the code does provide for local inspectors ("authorities having jurisdiction") to have the final say in whether something is allowable, I have yet to meet one who doesn't abide by the NEC. Regardless of whether the inspector ok's it, I have personally seen cases where insurance companies refused to pay for damages due to code issues. Some localities may have more stringent codes, but I doubt there are any which don't use the NEC as a minimum basis for their requirements. No offense is taken. We are all just trying to help out.

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I stand corrected (actually, I'm sitting).  When I read "code" as in "the code says" I assume it to mean building code, something I respect as with the authority of a law making body.  NEC, from that point of reference, is a guideline.  This isn't by any means to say it isn't a good or valid set of guidelines, in fact I fully respect it's value.  I just don't consider it to carry the weight of enforceable law that a building "code" does.

 

I will agree that an insurance company will likely have an opinion different from mine.

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Byrdie, you're right that it's a guideline which isn't law in and of itself. What it does is give lawmakers a source to work with. In New York State, The NEC has actually been codified into law and is the absolute minimum standard for electrical work. I suspect this is the same in many states/localities. It seems as if we may be hijacking the thread, though. All I really wanted to say is do it right and stay safe.

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