Llama Posted July 21, 2013 Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 I have this problem with tapered legs. When planing them smooth, no matter what I do I run against the grain. Am I missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 21, 2013 Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 Use a sander? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted July 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 A sander is how I work through my mistakes. I think it's due to my stock selection not being bastard grain. Hard to do when using figured woods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted July 21, 2013 Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 If you cannot get a low angle plane (love the irony since you are looking for a high angle of incidence) try to do more scraping. An old plane iron or even an iron taken out of one of your users can be used as a scraper if you do not have card stock. You can achieve glassy smooth finish but you will remove stock more slowly. I would sand it close and then finish by scraping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted July 21, 2013 Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 Would a York pitch help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wilkins Posted July 21, 2013 Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 How are you running the grain in the legs? Bastard/rift grain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted July 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 I did find that my low angle block helped, but it's very narrow. I'd like a quicker option. I do have a bevel-up LN plane coming Tuesday. I was trying to use my Stanley jack plane with a standard angle. My Stanley #6 did a nicer job, but still had blow out. Card scraper is a good idea. I do have one, but I'm not very confident on making a straight scrape with it on such a narrow piece. Perhaps a scraper plane? A York pitch may help. I don't have a high angle frog right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted July 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 How are you running the grain in the legs? Bastard/rift grain? I'll take a closer look. The grain appears straight, but after the tapers, it wraps around the legs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted July 21, 2013 Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 What do you mean straight scrape on such a narrow piece? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 21, 2013 Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 Card scraper lets you skew the cut and adjust the angle on the fly. With grain going every which way you need to constantly change your approach.. Or cheat and work your way thru several grits and sand it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted July 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 What do you mean straight scrape on such a narrow piece? Just meaning to be careful and not dish the material. Sounds silly thinking about it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted July 21, 2013 Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 I would use a HIGH cutting angle against the grain. York is slightly high, but higher still may be necessary. I keep two planes set up at a 62 degree cutting angle, a jointer and a smoother. The jointer is used for match jointing, so I can basically ignore grain reversals, and the smoother is used when my others don't work. It can take a significant amount of effort to push high angles through the cut, but the results are fantastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted July 21, 2013 Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 Mel, you planing down the taper? I'm sure you are. I think Rob Cosman has a video where he demonstrated adding a slight back bevel to the bevel down cutting Iron (nothing new but well demonstrated). Good to have a back beveled blade to hand if your a bevel down plane user for nasty grain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted July 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 Yes, I am doing all of the work by hand. I saw the video C. Schwarz made... the Shaker table DVD, excellent by the way... And I have never liked doing tapers on the table saw! I will check out the Cosman DVD. It's been awhile since I have seen his videos. I have a few of his DVD's from when he was with Lie-Nielsen. I may have it, I'll check to see. I don't have a bevel down just yet, should be here Tuesday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted July 22, 2013 Report Share Posted July 22, 2013 I don't have a bevel down just yet, should be here Tuesday I only really hear good things about them (assuming you mean bevel up) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted July 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2013 I only really hear good things about them (assuming you mean bevel up) Ha! Good catch friend! That is exactly what I mean 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren66 Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Mel, apologies possibly hijacking your post. I'm intending on cutting some tapered posts for a small wardrobe the taper is on 1 side only. I've been pondering how best to do this and have concluded by hand based upon my equipment. I thought rip saw bulk and plane to finish line. I note Barry said he would plane against the grain and this just seemed counter intuitive. So some guidance would be appreciated. Posts are American white oak approx 1.5" to 1.75" (final size TBC). Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Mel, apologies possibly hijacking your post. I'm intending on cutting some tapered posts for a small wardrobe the taper is on 1 side only. I've been pondering how best to do this and have concluded by hand based upon my equipment. I thought rip saw bulk and plane to finish line. I note Barry said he would plane against the grain and this just seemed counter intuitive. So some guidance would be appreciated. Posts are American white oak approx 1.5" to 1.75" (final size TBC). Thanks Sorry about that! I did a horrible job wording that... I meant to use the high angle plane when you HAD to go against the grain, as when a leg has reversing grain along the plane's path. Another example of this would be match jointing, especially bookmatched panels. You can keep turning the plane mid pass, as the grain reverses, but eventually, you'll want to take a full pass and have to cut against the grain. Always try to plane "downhill", but we have to have options when we can't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted July 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 As far as using a table saw, I don't like them for this. I'd recommend using a jack plane. Take "taper" cuts, and you'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 A simple taper sled takes all the drama out of table saw tapering: Scroll down to message #17... Those hinged aluminum jigs should be outlawed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren66 Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Barry. Thanks. Bring on the Veritas LA jack plane :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted July 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Barry, I do like your sled design. I have seen others that were an L shaps. Straight on the fence side with notches in the lower side. Others use a screw or bolt to adjust the taper. I guess I'm just too much of a hand tool guy. I've done it all kinds of ways, and still prefer the hand plane. I'm also not doing 60 legs a day. My feelings might change if I had a lot to do in a short time. Or if I were using really tough to plane wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted July 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2013 I managed to work through my origional problem. I reduced the mouth on my #2, and resharpened with a greater angle, and micro bevel. It made short work of that fussy grain. I should have had more trust in my #2 to begin with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted July 26, 2013 Report Share Posted July 26, 2013 Outstanding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted July 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2013 Outstanding! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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