woodworker100 Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 Hi Marc, What would you say is the minimum resaw capacity required for this build? Looks like the final arm dimension is 5 1/2" Can I get away with 6" capacity? Thanks, Fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 Yup. 6" should be fine for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nholderbein Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 Ssshh. Don't say that too loud. The wife will find out I could have used a friend's, instead of ordering a new Laguna! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodworker100 Posted May 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 Yup. 6" should be fine for this. Great, thanks Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted May 17, 2014 Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 How about no bandsaw? I would like to to do this build, but dont have a bandsaw. Can the maerial be resawn at the tablesaw and then planed to final dimension? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWMac Posted May 17, 2014 Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 How about no bandsaw? I would like to to do this build, but dont have a bandsaw. Can the maerial be resawn at the tablesaw and then planed to final dimension? Hey Franklin, not sure if you're anywhere near Guelph, but you're welcome to give it a go on my bandsaw. I'll need a bit of time to work out the bugs as it's used but new to me. I haven't had a chance to hit the LV store for a Kreg fence yet, but that should happen in the next 2 weeks.... I'm not quite brave enough to try freehand for this. Just PM me if you're interested. I'm still trying to figure a way around the drum sander though if anyone has any good ideas. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 How about no bandsaw? I would like to to do this build, but dont have a bandsaw. Can the maerial be resawn at the tablesaw and then planed to final dimension? You need to resaw about 6" of stock. So if you can get your blade up a full 3" and make the cut from both sides, it's certainly possible. But I honestly start getting nervous about cuts like this where so much of the blade is exposed and you're not cutting through the entire piece. So I don't want to say it isn't possible as I'm sure someone could cobble together a jig/fixture and a unique methodology, but on the surface it makes me nervous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 I was comfortable using to resaw on my tablesaw. I used a thin kerf 24 tooth rip blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 You need to resaw about 6" of stock. So if you can get your blade up a full 3" and make the cut from both sides, it's certainly possible. But I honestly start getting nervous about cuts like this where so much of the blade is exposed and you're not cutting through the entire piece. So I don't want to say it isn't possible as I'm sure someone could cobble together a jig/fixture and a unique methodology, but on the surface it makes me nervous. I could raise the blade to about 2.5", cut a non through cut, flip, and cut a again. This would leave me about 1" to finish with a hand saw. Then clean up with a hand plane, and finally dimension on the planer. I know it's more wasteful. Do you think this is a safer method? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 I do. If you leave that little section in the middle that should leave a good amount of support for the cut-off piece. And that's less material to possibly warp during the cut. Definitely more work, but it might be worth it. You might also consider going with thicker plies that I recommend in the plan. I know I've seen plans that use 1/4" stock for the bending. I think that's a little thick but with enough clamps, it should work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 After watching all the videos to date, I dont think that this build would be much fun without a bandsaw. The bending forms would be pretty hard to construct without one. Ill spectate fo now, and maybe build in the future after i add a bandsaw to my arsenal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 After watching all the videos to date, I dont think that this build would be much fun without a bandsaw. The bending forms would be pretty hard to construct without one. Ill spectate fo now, and maybe build in the future after i add a bandsaw to my arsenal. You could do that jig with a jig saw. Would just take a little more elbow grease but, certainly doable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 Yeah you could cut the curve of the bending form with the jigsaw, but you're still gonna have a real challenge on your hands trying to figure out how to cut the laminates for the arms. Unless you're gonna steam bend, I don't really see someone tackling this build without a bandsaw. I'm bummed about this build. I have all my lumber and my shop is ready to go, but I've been slammed with work and probably will be for the next month or so. I really wanted to build along but I guess that's not gonna happen. I even found a good upholsterer. Too bad for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombarde16 Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 I'm sorry to see Pug losing interest in the build because of tooling. I've resawn plenty on the table saw using precisely the technique described: Come almost halfway in from both sides and finish with the ripping side of a cheap pull saw from Lowe's. This indeed got me 6" widths (and wider, IIRC) for projects in the past. Use the coarsest blade you can get and work slowly. The real trick was to make a tall auxilliary fence for the saw and this came in handy truing the curves after they came out of the form, anyway. As for the bending form, the arm of a Morris really isn't that complex. Does it really make the project bandsaw contingent? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 I'm sorry to see Pug losing interest in the build because of tooling. I've resawn plenty on the table saw using precisely the technique described: Come almost halfway in from both sides and finish with the ripping side of a cheap pull saw from Lowe's. This indeed got me 6" widths (and wider, IIRC) for projects in the past. Use the coarsest blade you can get and work slowly. The real trick was to make a tall auxilliary fence for the saw and this came in handy truing the curves after they came out of the form, anyway. PICT0198.JPG As for the bending form, the arm of a Morris really isn't that complex. Does it really make the project bandsaw contingent? Well its kind of a combination of things that is disracting me from this build. I have sold my home in the last 2weeks, and bought another, so im tied up with all that nonsense. My shop is shrinking to about 1/4 of the size i have now, so I have been heavily researching and trying to organize a new shop. I am also in the middle of two client builds (nothing too complex, but time is time). So without a bandsaw, its easy for me to let this one slide (especially after seeing the latest video). If I had nothing else on my plate, I'd make do without (or perhaps buy one - what better time?). Sounds kind of like an excuse, but I may have to revisit this one later. I too was looking forward to building along with Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 ==>I don't really see someone tackling this build without a bandsaw. I agree, but Shannon may have something to say about it... I think he's got a video for ripping veneer with a fine panel saw... Way to much like work for me, but I'm lazy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 I suppose I should revise my comment to "I don't really see a sane person tackling this project without a bandsaw." That's a noble undertaking, Rob...all that resawing on the table saw. I fear that being the lesser man that I am, I would just go ahead and buy a bandsaw instead of going through all that trouble and wood waste. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 I suppose I should revise my comment to "I don't really see a sane person tackling this project without a bandsaw." That's a noble undertaking, Rob...all that resawing on the table saw. I fear that being the lesser man that I am, I would just go ahead and buy a bandsaw instead of going through all that trouble and wood waste. Yea, but you work for the NSA and CIA, you just threaten an informant to have one delivered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombarde16 Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 That's a noble undertaking, Rob...all that resawing on the table saw. I fear that being the lesser man that I am, I would just go ahead and buy a bandsaw instead of going through all that trouble and wood waste. To each their own. The two arms of this chair comprise what? Eight to ten pieces of wood? The table saw would be done with that before the new bandsaw was even delivered, let alone tuned and cutting straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StanAccy Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 After watching all the videos to date, I dont think that this build would be much fun without a bandsaw. The bending forms would be pretty hard to construct without one. Ill spectate fo now, and maybe build in the future after i add a bandsaw to my arsenal. I just finished a bent arm Morris Chair, and didnt use the lamination technique - you can cut the arms and the back slats out of single 8/4 pieces, and then spend some quality time with a spokeshave, block plane, calipers (to check for consistent thickness across the arm) and sandpaper (a spindle sander would be helpful here). The time you save not building the bending form is offset by the time you spend cleaning up the two cuts on each arm. Its an alternative - if I was building more than one chair I might go down the lamination road in future, but for a one-off, it worked fine for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allencrane Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 I am now a convert to the table saw resawing method. I started out with my 14" Delta bandsaw and put a new WoodSlicer blade on it. I also got a new Kreg fence for it and installed that. Even though I own one, my band sawing hours are few, compared to other tools in my shop. That said, I spent the first part of Saturday morning not being able to control for drift, adjust for tension, feed speed, etc. I messed up that first board bad enough that I decided to go to the table saw. I installed a new Diablo rip blade and never looked back. Yes, I know the kerf waste was more than the bandsaw's, but I got consistent 3/16" veneers every time. It was so much faster too, which is important for me as I am building 2 chairs. For safety, I followed Rob's and Marc's suggestion above and left a 1/2" section in the middle, which I cut through on the bandsaw. I then used my handplanes and the planer to flatten the midsection. One thing I will warn you about though. If you follow this method, be sure to get ALL of that middle section gone. I had some minor (1/64" or so) areas that I assumed were close enough, but the cummulative effect of the 6ply laminates created for me a slight "crowning" effect, particularly when I glued and clamped up the arm. A few of the top cauls on the arm bending form actually split slightly under the side pressure, as I wanted to ensure the sides were closed. Since the arm bending form bottom section is flat, there is nowhere for the slightly raised midsection to go but upward, giving the arm this ever-so-slight "crowning" effect. I'm hoping to smooth out some of it with a belt sander later, but maybe I will just keep it like it is as a "feature" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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