solo1001 Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 Can I safely rip this using the rip fence since its essentially in the shape of a square? If I needed an eight inch piece, would I set my rip fence at 16 inches and push through with the wide side pressed against the fence or would i set the fence at eight and somehow push it through. This question is kind of hard to articulate but I want to do it as safely as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 If your fence is good and you trust it, I would put the 16 on the right side of the blade. Also make sure your splitter is in place if you have one just for some extra piece of mind. If you run the 8" to the right of the blade, make your primary push from the opposite corner and use a push stick for the final little bit to get the piece thru safely. As always, stand out of the line of fire. If it's going to kick, let it go. No project is worth your fingers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solo1001 Posted August 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 Thanks. I have a MicroJig splitter and a big push stick. Just coulnd't make it make sense in my head with it being a square. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 If you are not comfortable doing this on the table saw, use a handheld jigsaw or circular saw to cut off a piece just over 8" wide, then use the tablesaw to get it to final dimension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 Both answers above will do what you need done. Beyond any cut's, be safe. Love your fingers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 There is no concern here beyond safe operation. 24" on the fence is awesome. With that much to register (unless you have much more than 24" perpendicular to the fence), I would have no concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 My rule is "support the longer side". If it's square, you get to support whatever side you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 26, 2014 Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 I use a push block with a 'heel' to catch the work. With that arrangement, I would have no worries about cutting the 8" piece between the blade and fence. I still wouldn't stand directly behind it, just because. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Tarbell Posted August 26, 2014 Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 I don't think either setting would be an issue so long as your fence is parallel to your blade. Check your owner's manual for your saw and go through the fence alignment procedure. Whether you've adjusted it before or not, it's a good idea to resquare it every so often to ensure it's cutting true. This will greatly improve the smoothness of your cut edges and also reduce kickback occurrences. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solo1001 Posted August 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 Thanks everyone. I got the fence square to the blade and made my cuts and I'm good to go. Only tough part is I don't have a dedicated outfeed table so I always go on an adventure stacking things to get table height to take the pieces. Different combo everytime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Tarbell Posted August 26, 2014 Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 I don't have an outfeed table either. If the piece is under 4-5 feet then i'll typically just run it through and keep my hand on the end of the board until the blade stops after the cut. Things longer than 4' get sketchy with having to hold that much weight so near the blade, so i'll use a cheap $15 roller stand from harbor freight as my outfeed. Both things work well but aren't as convenient as an outfeed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 I built my workbench at TS height so it could pull double duty as an outfeed. Happens to be a comfortable working height for me, anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solo1001 Posted August 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 Yeah, that's one of those hindsight things. My workbench was my very first project and I made it too tall since I didn't have a table saw yet and then I eyeballed the legs so they weren't even so I added castors and now its even taller. I've learned with every project about what to do and what not to do. I'm making a cutting board and as I screw up, it gets smaller and smaller but darnit it will look like the sweetest small cutting board ever when i get it done. I'm flattening with a router sled and I didn't have the workpiece secure enough after taking a break so a big chunk got taken out of the side. Oh well, slice it off and move forward. Lesson learned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 On the out feed table, I have two of these and have been using them for a couple of years. You can't beat the convenience. http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Flip-Top-Portable-Work-Support-AC9934/100618242 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdie Posted August 31, 2014 Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 I use roller stands for longer pieces and had some problems being with them being tippy. I made a set of sand bags that weigh about 7 lbs each (4 for each stand) and no more problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soonerdg Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 One thing to consider if you put the 16 inches to the right of the blade (between the blade and the fence) is you need to measure your fence distance from the OUTSIDE of the blade. Otherwise you'll lose the kerf of the blade from your project piece and it won't be 8". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdie Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 One thing to consider if you put the 16 inches to the right of the blade (between the blade and the fence) is you need to measure your fence distance from the OUTSIDE of the blade. Otherwise you'll lose the kerf of the blade from your project piece and it won't be 8". Sounds like experience speaking ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 I got to the place that If I can manage (,not always possible with large sheets,) I mark the leading edge of my work piece and adjust my fence to the piece. If you mark the waste side of the line with a traditional framing "X", this can save a lot of near side vs far side setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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