Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted March 13, 2015 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 Needing something to do with some scraps of walnut that were cluttering my off-cut shelf, I decided to do something I could use my Kutzall disk on. I glued up some scraps to make a block: Now, this bowl is to be sculpted, not turned, so plain old 'round' just won't do. A bit of bandsaw and recip saw to get started: Once the outer form was roughed in, the fun started with rasps, powered and not: The outside was the easy part. I hogged out much of the interior with a forstner bit: Then I started working it down with a chisel. Laying off the power tools for now, trying to keep noise and airborne dust to a minimum until the weather clears up enough to keep the garage doors open: That's all for now. Updates will come in spurts, as shop time is hit or miss for now. Thanks for looking, feedback is appreciated. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdie Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 I love the look of walnut and can already see that this will have an interesting shape. I'll be looking forward to the updates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raefco Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 I have been gluing walnut scraps and making all sorts of stuff also, looks like it's going to be a pretty cool center piece. Have you ever put a rotary rasp or burr cutter in the drill press and hand worked a piece into it? I will sometimes to this to cleanup tool marks as I get close to the desired shape and start approaching finished design. One needs a firm grip and a light touch or it can get a little grabby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 Planning to use a burr with a die grinder, as soon as weather permits me to move back outside. No way I can manage the dust from that thing inside. Might try it in the drill press, but mine is kinda wimpy.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 I have walnut scraps but not the imagination to think of something like that. Great job so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 Well, I had the opportunity to make some noise in the garage today. Dust was still an issue, so I rigged a flex hose to to top of my bench, and went to work with the grinder. The Kutzall disk was great for shaping the interior of the bowl, and for adding a slight hollow to the bottom. I tried out my die grinder / rotary rasp, but my little air compressor just can't handle the load. I guess the fine details will have to be done with meat power. Now, I am becoming intimately familiar with my gooseneck scraper: This is actually working quite well, now that I figured out how to get the burr right. Most of the How-to vids on YouTube say burnish the edge square, then at 5* to turn the 'hook'. I found that to leave a brittle and awkwardly angled burr, so I tried just burnishing square to the edge, and my shaving have never been better. Helps that walnut is a not-so-hard wood... And a $2 pair of rubber palmed knit gloves from HF really protect my hands from the edge, and give a wonderful grip. Reduces fatigue tremendously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 Had to google klutzall disc. Very similiar to one I used on the contemplation bench. Those suckers will remove some wood and mine was finer than others offered! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Still scraping ..... The interior is coming along nicely. The outside still has a way to go: Sorry for the poor quality photos, lighting is horrible in my "shop". Quick tool review: On a whim, I decided to try one of these: from Harbor Freight. Meh. Even at "80 grit", this thing won't make dust out of walnut. Might polish the chrome on your 22" spinners, but useless for wood. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raefco Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 once you are ready to finish, they polish the wood well, I used something similar on this, I dont remember if I used tung oil or just wax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 You're doing a great job, wthhighlander. About the cabinet scrapers: those sheets of metal are a pleasure to use. I too burnish them square to the edge. I always keep the burnisher close when I'm scraping and apply a few swipes from time to time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Daniel, I don't know about them being a "pleasure" to use, but they are certainly effective! I'm still thinking about a finish to use. I used mineral oil & beeswax on a walnut cutting board recently, and love the look, but it needs frequent re-application. Have you used tung oil and wax mixed, or applied oil, then wax after the oil cures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 I sometimes use BLO, never used tung oil. BLO is not a good sealer, leaves visible lumps on some woods. To solve this I first apply a coat of shellac. I always apply wax as the last coat, but never mixed the wax with other finishes. You may also want to apply a coat of shellac before the wax, but this is entirely optional. I often mix BLO with whatever oil based varnish I have at hand, and mineral spirits (equal shares of each one). But if you're going to use that centerpiece for fruits, then I wouldn't use any of the above except for shellac and/or food grade mineral oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 Watco is faster and easier, hard to tell the difference when it's all said and done . Those buffs work well during finishing, not meant for sanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 Steve, how many coats of danish oil do you typically do on walnut? The few pieces I have used it on look so-so, but maybe I'm being too stingy with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raefco Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 I like the minwax tung oil, 2-3 coats, or till it does not soak in right away and then 3 coats of water base poly. I have been picking up these little 8oz sizes and trying out different ones. Rustoleum also makes a water based crystal clear that I like over oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 Looks great. I love black walnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 19, 2015 Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 Usually 2 or 3 coats. I like it cause is easy to repair/ renew in the future. I just want a soft sheen, not a full finish film. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Progress is slow and sporadic. Rasp, rasp, rasp...file, file, file....scrape, scrape, scrape.... I promise when this is done, I WILL post at least one well-lit photo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 I love any project journal whereby I don't recognize a single tool. Can't wait to see it finished. Great work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 A well sharpened curved scraper can be your friend on a piece like that. Might need a fairly aggressive hook to start with. Gloves are a good idea too, easy to get cut when a finger slips on a scraper. If you consider any top coat over Danish oil give it a week or more to dry , 2 or 3 weeks wouldn't hurt. A shellac barrier coat if you are considering a water bourne might be smart. It's looking good, keep posting ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted April 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 I love any project journal whereby I don't recognize a single tool. Can't wait to see it finished. Great work Seriously, Vinny? Is there really something you don't recognize, or are the actual tools just that hard to spot amongst all the clutter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 Power carvers and reciprocating toothy brickabrak..all foreign objects to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted April 2, 2015 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 Ok, time to quit stalling and lay on some finish. Here's a "before" shot: BTW, that was sanded up to 240 grit. Next I applied a liberal coat of Watco Natural, rubbing it in with 400 grit wet/dry paper. After a bit, I wiped it back until no color came of on the rag. Here is the result: Two or three more coats of Watco should be plenty. I think I will leave it at that, maybe add some wax later. I'll put up another photo when the oil is complete. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 Gorgeous! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 That is one fancy bedpan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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