TWWG Split Top Roubo Build #544


estesbubba

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If you're using the barrel nuts, a couple pieces of advice:

1.  Thread the bolt all the way through the nut before you install anything.  The threads on mine were a tiny bit sloppy and it was hard getting the bolt through the nut initially. Some machine oil helps.

2.  Drill a larger hole than necessary for the nut.  The nut requires a 7/8" hole, and it fits perfectly in that hole.  So I drilled a 7/8 hole and ended up having to ream out the bolt holes a bit because there was zero play in the nut.  So I would drill a 1" hole so that you have an extra bit of wiggle room in getting the nut lined up with the bolt.

1. Yup mine were the same and I put paste wax on the entire bolt which helped through the hole and with the nut.

2. I had already planned on going 1" because I knew no way I could hand drill dead straight, and I was right! Even going 1" one of my bolts barely threaded hit the nut. 

The end cap is done - now on to the dog strip! I'm taking all of next week off so hopefully I can make some good progress on the bench.

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1. Yup mine were the same and I put paste wax on the entire bolt which helped through the hole and with the nut.

2. I had already planned on going 1" because I knew no way I could hand drill dead straight, and I was right! Even going 1" one of my bolts barely threaded hit the nut. 

The end cap is done - now on to the dog strip! I'm taking all of next week off so hopefully I can make some good progress on the bench.

h5vSgTE-Yi8O1Ci9gTZxQ-RXfhy_A1IPnlW2_Jpa

I can't see the pic, but congrats on finishing up the end cap!  You're moving along now...

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Looks great!  Love the cherry end cap.  You're also making me regret not paying up for the "M" wheel.  It's a beautiful finish.

The end cap is actually hard maple but does look different from the slab. I think it's because the slab was milled 6 months ago and aging and dirt makes it look different from the freshly milled end cap. I was going to go with cherry or walnut for the end cap, but wanted the M wheels and rosewood knobs to stand out. BC is now using cherry for the knobs, and if I had those, probably would have used a cherry end cap to match. 

I'm not there yet but need to study what changes I need to make for the new crisscross vise. 

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It's fairly straightforward Mike (the criss cross).  Read the instructions a couple times just to make sure you know what you're doing.  But it's literally all layout.  Just lay everything out accurately and you'll be good to go.  Then route two big ass mortises, drill a couple holes and you're done.

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The end cap is actually hard maple but does look different from the slab. I think it's because the slab was milled 6 months ago and aging and dirt makes it look different from the freshly milled end cap. I was going to go with cherry or walnut for the end cap, but wanted the M wheels and rosewood knobs to stand out. BC is now using cherry for the knobs, and if I had those, probably would have used a cherry end cap to match. 

I'm not there yet but need to study what changes I need to make for the new crisscross vise. 

Exactly what Brian said. Layout, layout, layout. Check your layout, setup your tools, check your layout, check your setup, remove lots of material. Once the cavities are done, you can mark for the criss cross pins. I recommend taking the pins, chucking them in a drill and polishing them with some 320 grit. Then taper the ends by spinning the pin in the drill and touching the ends to a spinning bench grinder wheel. Then after installation, mark where you need to cut the pins. I I used a cut off wheel with an angle grinder. Then tapered again, and polished the ends with some 220 and then moved to 320. Mike, if you have any questions I'd be glad to help. Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
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Well I milled my dog strip board and made the template on Thursday. Came out to the shop this morning and laid out all the dog holes. Setup both routers and went in the house to take a leak. Came back out and started in my first hole with the 1/2" bit and it grabbed hard. Oh crap forgot it was at 1" depth and it ruined the board and jig. Time to take a break and regroup before making new jig and strip board. Sucks but at least easy to recover from this mistake.

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No mention of the condition of your man panties?

Yikes.  Could have been worse.  Carry on...

They are currently visiting...

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Went into the house to clear my brain before routing and cleared it too much. As soon as the bit took off I knew exactly the bonehead mistake I made. Luckily brass is pretty soft and hoping the bit still cuts fine. 

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Well I got all my dog holes routed and they came out good. I hogged most of the material using a Whiteside 1/2" solid carbide bit which screams confidence and cuts through the hard maple like butter, even after eating a brass bushing. I finished with a 1/4" shank 1/2" Whiteside pattern bit which screams "I hope you're wearing a bullet proof vest and nut cup". It cuts great but a 1/4" shank bit 1" deep in hard maple scares me. No bits went flying and the dog holes came out very clean. 

The setup.

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And a reminder to pull my head out. 

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Even doing a climb cut a couple of the first holes got tearout so I attached a backer board to my jig for the rest of the cuts. A little glue and clamp easily fixed repaired the tearout. Also when I made the jig I put a small strip on the back so I didn't accidentally route through it. 

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Much better with the backer board and Whiteside bits just kick ass. 

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Even using the CT with the Festool router which did most of the work it made a mess. 

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Some people want to be like Mike and failed. I just wanted to be like @Tom Cancelleri and failed. 

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Even using brads to help keep the 3/8" board from shifting, once I put the clamps on it did about 1/64". The good news is the thin board shifted towards the top so I only have to knock that down. You guys think a LA block or LA jack plane would be better to do the job? I'm just learning hand planes.

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It was a good weekend in the shop and I'm off this week. It would be nice to get the front slab done before Thanksgiving and start on the base afterwards. 

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Mike, your pics aren't showing up. 

Mike, get a photo bucket account.  Google photos sucks :)

Yup Google photos used to be fine but pissing me off. Here is a link to them. 

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOn5sogJVkt2kZVShsrEtTuT9Kt012yWLZGlIn-3Fvv-XrqNq4mF6qUui5Bud9j8Q?key=OVNwa3RuRE1HSkN5bEVVQUxtRWgyT3JRS1FQaFBB

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Weird that you're getting chip out like that. I did the same thing you did, made 3 passes with the 1400 with a 1/2" spiral bit and a bushing. 

I made 3 test dogs in the board I messed up and my first on the new board didn't have tearout. Then the next 2 did so I attached a backer board. Could just be the grain or hard vs soft maple - who knows. 

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Alright, trying this Photobucket thing because my photos aren't already in enough places. Cut this vise dog this morning and measured the location of the dog strip 27 times, then checked a few more times. Checked the plans 18 times to make sure dogs are pointing the correct way, cut the Dominos, then glued it up. Didn't plane the dog strip because like Brian said, finally leveling will take care of it. 

When you guys use Dominos for alignment, do you use width 1 for all of them or just the first cut and 2 for the rest? This was the first time I was brave enough to use 1 for all the holes but I sanded the edges of the Dominos. It was a damn tight fight and I would be crying now if it didn't go together and was covered in glue. 

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Going to start on the Condor trails this afternoon. It's really starting to look like a bench top. 

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Looks great Mike!

To answer your question about the domino, when using it for alignment purposes I usually use the #2 setting for all of them.  But when I do use #1, I usually knock off that little ridge along the edges of the domino with a chisel, and that provides the tiniest bit of play to make sure it will go together.

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Well I started on the Condor Tails after lunch and made more progress than I thought I would. Made the angled cuts at the bandsaw which came out nice. It was my first time using a Ryoba crosscut/rip combination saw and I did pretty good. 

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Next was on to routing waste in the endcap and I got braver than I should of with the lines. At this point I was getting tired and my legs were feeling it. I probably should have called it a day before doing this but continued on.

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I chiseled away the waste and the first 1/4" dropped in nicely. A couple of places my chisel wondered a bit and we'll see how it looks when I route the rest.

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I finally knew it was time to call it a day when I realized I was doing this with a razor sharp chisel...

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So is epoxy recommended on this condor tail if it comes out tight or loose (gap filling), and use wood glue if it's in between? Or should I just use epoxy no matter what?

Fun day in the shop and I wanted to finish this, but a bonehead mistake was probably not far away.

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