TWWG Split Top Roubo Build #544


estesbubba

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Bought a 3/8" drill bit that was 6" long from Lowes which was total crap. I could tell just eyeballing it that it was too big and steel rod confirmed the obvious. 

ABF26151-D1D8-4B02-A0BD-6FCA87962E17_zps

So I got impatient and decided to try drilling from both sides using my existing drill bit. I was careful and dead on! Need to do some more studying before finishing the vise install.

F96CE6A3-42DA-4DB4-B6C1-13EAE3AE5F9D_zps

Instructions said 1/8 - 3/8" toe in is normal and I'm at 3/8".

0D2191D0-A310-4F20-9A18-5258F29893BB_zps

 

 

Edited by estesbubba
Hit save accidentally :(
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Bought a 3/8" drill bit that was 6" long from Lowes which was total crap. I could tell just eyeballing it that it was too big and steel rod confirmed the obvious. 

http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/mike290/Woodtalk/ABF26151-D1D8-4B02-A0BD-6FCA87962E17_zps0mv22jxi.jpg

told ya :)

The one I got at Woodcraft worked well. Same one Tom got too. 

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Mike it looks fantastic. Now you're REALLY in the home stretch. No more routing!

Since your slabs sit perfectly flat on the base and it's only 1/16 to remove, I personally wouldn't mess with shims. 1/16 is nothing. You might notice if you look closely at the dovetails, but I doubt it. 

Also: make sure you leave the dogs in the dog holes when you flatten. That way they stay at or below the surface after you remove material. 

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1 hour ago, bgreenb said:

Mike it looks fantastic. Now you're REALLY in the home stretch. No more routing!

Since your slabs sit perfectly flat on the base and it's only 1/16 to remove, I personally wouldn't mess with shims. 1/16 is nothing. You might notice if you look closely at the dovetails, but I doubt it. 

Also: make sure you leave the dogs in the dog holes when you flatten. That way they stay at or below the surface after you remove material. 

Brian did you hit your dogs while flattening? I'll peel my suede down or remove because no idea on what would happen if the bit hit it. I'm going to install my spax screws before doing my final analysis of the top to pull everything tight. 

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Mike it looks fantastic. Now you're REALLY in the home stretch. No more routing!

Since your slabs sit perfectly flat on the base and it's only 1/16 to remove, I personally wouldn't mess with shims. 1/16 is nothing. You might notice if you look closely at the dovetails, but I doubt it. 

Also: make sure you leave the dogs in the dog holes when you flatten. That way they stay at or below the surface after you remove material. 

Brian did you hit your dogs while flattening? I'll peel my suede down or remove because no idea on what would happen if the bit hit it. I'm going to install my spax screws before doing my final analysis of the top to pull everything tight. 

The width of my base came in 1/32" under and I decided to have the back slab overhang by that much instead of being flush which kept my bench 24" wide. I could have just shrunk the gap stop buy I wanted that extra 1/32" of workspace! I trace the feet and routed the mortises and deadman groove. I got lucky as the base dropped in the first with absolutely no play.

8FEB7553-DBF2-431C-B819-B238A9F480DA_zpsxizmiyp9.jpg~original

Please Brian and Tom tell me I'm finally done with all this crazy deep hand-held routing! My 1/2 spiral upcut is ready for retirement. 

A7669D8F-59DE-42AA-BB1A-C0A4B0424B55_zpservymkzg.jpg~original

The slabs are in pretty good shape but the back one drops by 1/16" on the leg vise end which would mean removing that much from the front slab. I put a couple of washers under that end which would mean removing a lot less material to flatten. You guys think I should cut some wood shims for under the rail to raise that end to reduce the amount of material removed? Here it is with the washers under it. 

84968F15-08F4-456D-B19C-A8465EE99D77_zps3pcycjtz.jpg~original

It's a great feeling seeing it finally on the floor and for the first time looking like a bench. My concrete floor is nice and flat in that area so more good luck today. 

3B80C652-9C71-49E5-86DA-D3483B5F6433_zpsuzemixlb.jpg~original

E5974EF0-D067-4F47-9609-260C00B2E07D_zpsqhqghqyn.jpg~original

The spax screws were fun to install.... Looks good Mike

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

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1 hour ago, estesbubba said:

Brian did you hit your dogs while flattening? I'll peel my suede down or remove because no idea on what would happen if the bit hit it. I'm going to install my spax screws before doing my final analysis of the top to pull everything tight. 

I did hit my dogs but I hadn't applied the suede yet. I doubt it would matter since you're removing so little but you're probably right better safe than sorry. 

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5 hours ago, shaneymack said:

Cant see in the pics, what do the spax screw hold?

Well crap first some people couldn't see my Google Photos and people said to use Photobucket which appears to have same problem.

Anyway Brian answered the question on the spax screws. They probably actually do nothing unless you lift up on the top. The slabs are so heavy and register into the leg mortises and don't budge when pushing on them. 

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Cant see in the pics, what do the spax screw hold?

Well crap first some people couldn't see my Google Photos and people said to use Photobucket which appears to have same problem.

Anyway Brian answered the question on the spax screws. They probably actually do nothing unless you lift up on the top. The slabs are so heavy and register into the leg mortises and don't budge when pushing on them. 

Take a breather Mike. Re read what i wrote. I can see the photo i just couldnt see where the spax screw was :D

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2 minutes ago, shaneymack said:

Take a breather Mike. Re read what i wrote. I can see the photo i just couldnt see where the spax screw was :D

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I guess 2 letter words really do matter! Maybe I shouldn't try to write code and reply on a forum at the same time. 

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Sanded most of the base tonight to 180 while it was upside down and no top on it. I put the slabs back on and tightened the spax screws. The slabs sit nicely on the rails and most of the height differences are because the front slab is 1/32 thicker than the rear. This is actually good since the dog strip needs a little cleanup anyway. Looking at the slab from the pic below here is the depth of the low spots at 5 positions working top to bottom.

0,0,1/32,1/32

0,0,3/64,1/32

0,0,1/32,1/32

0,0,1/32,0

0,1/64,1/32,0

Marc's had a corner 1/4" high so looks like I got pretty lucky. 

3B80C652-9C71-49E5-86DA-D3483B5F6433_zps

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