Mahogany Spear Gun


Brendon_t

Recommended Posts

Rifles call remote triggers a bullpup design. 

yes, ithe would be a firearm equivalent to a mid action bullpup.

 

This is going to sound weird but,  is it possible for the oil from one wood to color the other?  The area of padeuk where it touches the purple heart  is starting to look quite purple.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, not only possible but quite likely.  I made a laminated picture frame of maple, bloodwood and wenge and the bloodwood definitely colored the maple a bit.  You can't see it in the photos but it is definitely there.

 

post-14089-0-17745300-1406991525.jpg

yes, ithe would be a firearm equivalent to a mid action bullpup.

 

This is going to sound weird but,  is it possible for the oil from one wood to color the other?  The area of padeuk where it touches the purple heart  is starting to look quite purple.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, not only possible but quite likely.  I made a laminated picture frame of maple, bloodwood and wenge and the bloodwood definitely colored the maple a bit.  You can't see it in the photos but it is definitely there.

 

post-14089-0-17745300-1406991525.jpg

 

A) thanks for the info 

2) sweet azz frame..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brendon what do you do to get a good balance to the spear gun?  Seems that working on it, doing all the shaping and everything, your going to have a nice feel for it in the shop that might change once it is in the water.

tthat action is called ballasting. Once done,  I'll load it withe a spear and bands any any other hardware and take it into the water.  Using 1/2oz fishing weights I'll add weight until two things happen. 1) the gun begins to very slowly sink and 2) move the weight front to back until it balances in hand.

Once the weight and location are known, I'll drill out a trough with a first forstner bit, melt down the needed weight of lead in my crucible then pour it into the cavity. Epoxy will take up any more space and a mahogany cover should make it "dissapear"

My brothers 62" FEQ teak gun took about 11 oz if I  remember correctly. 

Edited by Brendon_t
Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the handle finished,  I turned my attention to the gun body. 

The mortise for the handle was cut by hand. The router plane made controlling depth o super convenient. 

Then came a slight taper to the nose. I struck a line,  free handed it on the Bandsaw then cleaned up the cut with the lajp.

The sides will each receive a taper also but not until the spear track is cut.

The nose shaping and band holes finished out the day.

Now I'm stuck waiting on parts to get here. 

Waiting sucks. 

9786954236f27cdc9b8fbe10b9ed41af.jpg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve,  I've got 5 compound bows,  2 set up for hunting so bambi is covered.

TC, my primary target will be giant white sea bass, halibut, and yellowtail. 

The gun will be coated with many coats of varnish. It will be totally submerged at times but not often as hook and line are still my primary fishing method.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

About time for an update. 

The router table has definately been my friend on this project.

After laying out the mortises off of the actual mechanism, a 1/2" mortise was hand chopped from the top to receive the mech, then 1/4" mortise for the trigger was pounded out on the bottom.

The epoxy cavity was routed and filed with epoxy on one stock.

The other stock received the routing for an all wood track. The track is a two part process.  After finding center with calipers (way more technical than my usual woodworking)  a 1/4" bit is used to hog out a bit then followed up with a specialty ball mill bit that is .020" oversized for a 9/32" shaft.

 

I know I'm missing a lot in the interim here but got a wild hair last night and stayed up until about 3 am shaping and fitting. 

There are 3 different tapers on the stock,  transitions from 1/2" radius bits down to 1/4" roundovers. After a lot of fitting, hours of hand sanding and some compressed air, it's ready for finish. . Don't mind the mess.  Everything kind of exploded. .

367f6717aba8b4b1633e925a1939081f.jpgafc994a3a092dc9904a12ff83baa32fe.jpg82be81fd2ee363a5184652c40865b953.jpgc49a4eb11aee876e5192f1d158d9d862.jpg32b3265decbdbe0052d8a172cb354bfe.jpg Final shape after sanding 1d3176a8cd59fa71ae2c5bc9708cd24b.jpg258a733e15d22c48354abf621b2ba20c.jpg
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What plugs are you talking about?

The holes you see are not plugged.  They are drilled all the way through.  Those three points are where stainless steel  rods will pin in the trigger mechanism  in the back and remote trigger about 12" up.

Edited by Brendon_t
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.