Problem with moisture in compressed air


graffis

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Pug, everywhere I have seen copper tubing for compressed air, ALL the joints were done with compression fittings. No soldering or brazing. I would not trust a soldered joint over 35 psi, or so.

residential water pressure is usually 50-80 psi, so the solder joints are better than 35psi :)

1/2" and 3/4" copper with solder joints is rated at 200psi if done properly

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Back when we were using copper for waterlines, I routinely pressure checked them at 100 psi. before putting water in them.  I'd never choose compression fittings over soldered joints.  Some of the air lines in my system on the farm are sweated copper that has been trouble free since I put them up in 1979 or 80.

Edited by Tom King
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  • 1 month later...

 

shop-air.thumb.jpg.39591fea1cb9bb1757926

 

Here's a list of my setup, in order of appearance. It might be overkill for your needs, but for the next guy reading this thread a year from now and wants to spray from his/her oil-based compressor, it's the bees knees...

 

trip, digging this one outta the archive...  looking at the photo above - is your air compressor elevated?  I see where he copper starts at the top left and just curious how it looks to the left.

 

would there be a problem with elevating the compressor?  I was thinking about putting my compressor in the shop's loft.  Problems I can foresee:

  • draining the water out of the air compressor (guessing I can extend the drain through the floor of the loft to access from the shop)
  • dealing with the pressure adjustments on the compressor - I've only had a pancake compressor and I don't think I've ever adjusted the pressure... but perhaps things will change when I get a big boy compressor.

thanks for any advice!

 

Matt

 

 

 

 

 

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==>is your air compressor elevated?

No

 

==>would there be a problem with elevating the compressor?

Don't know what compressor you're getting. Big compressors vibrate like a mother and need a solid mount. Mine's on a vibration dampeners and bolted to the slab...

 

==>just curious how it looks to the left.

You're in luck... I'm re-piping my setup between Thanksgiving and xMas (I've got a new filter stack and cold-weather dryer) that needs to be inserted in the refrig (hot weather) dryer bypass... I'll shoot a photo or three of the new setup when I get it done...

 

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hadn't thought about the vibration issue - was just trying to save space!

 

I haven't settled on a compressor yet - one thought is to build out for an HVLP set-up... the other is to buy a Fuji-esque HVLP and just use the compressor for regular shop stuff.  I know that's two ends of the spectrum there.

But even if I go for "regular shop stuff" - I still want to control for moisture in the lines - I'd really rather not blow dust off of something and end up with water all over my cast iron.   (and that's why I was trying to puzzle out how the copper loops were working in your system.

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Pug, everywhere I have seen copper tubing for compressed air, ALL the joints were done with compression fittings. No soldering or brazing. I would not trust a soldered joint over 35 psi, or so.

I am building a pressure washing system at work and noted that basic sweat elbows for copper pipe are rated about about 300 PSI.  The pipe itself can be rated at  1400 for 3/4" pipe k type.  McMaster labels all their fittings by pressure so it would be a handy reference.

I'll defer to those of you with direct experience. Just sayin', in the heavy industry I work in, only compression fittings are use on copper. But I'm an electrical guy, just reporting an observation.

What pressure do they run at?  Most normal size fittings up to 2" seem to be rated at 400 PSI in mcMaster.  Compression fittings of various kinds will do much more.

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