JosephThomas Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 Has anyone ever tried tapering with their jointer like shown below? I'd like to try, but if IIRC, my jointer has a max depth of cut of 1/8", guessing I would have to lower the depth in 1/8th increments until reaching the desired depth... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Trip Posted November 22, 2015 Popular Post Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 (edited) Done it in the past, not so much these days... Maybe four legs in a hundred... I usually cut tapers on the tablesaw or bandsaw, then cleanup with a #7... The jointer method works (and rather well), but it’s not in my workflow... Despite what Glen says, you can’t perform the operation without removing the guard – not in the real world... I strongly suspect (despite what he says in the paid advert... I mean video) that the jointer is not his go-to method... It’s inherently a less safe and less efficient than cutting tapers on a table or bandsaw and cleaning-up with a #7... Edited November 22, 2015 by hhh 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 I have done it as well. Works great, but slow. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted November 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 Ic. I was interested because I thought it might be faster than setting up a jig for a TS cut then cleaning up on the jointer or with a hand plane...thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 I do same as Trip, except I clean with a #5 because I don't have a #7. Like he said - definitely more efficient and safer, especially on a bandsaw. I honestly can't imagine why you'd do it on a jointer unless you didn't own a bandsaw or table saw. Ic. I was interested because I thought it might be faster than setting up a jig for a TS cut then cleaning up on the jointer or with a hand plane...thanks for the input.I know a lot of times people will exaggerate and say "oh building the jig only takes five minutes" but this is a case where it's true. Building a simple table saw taper jig takes < 5 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 ==>thought it might be faster than setting up a jig for a TSMany moons ago, I built an adjustable TS jig... It takes less than a minute to setup for just about any taper... I can taper four legs in under five minutes... No exaggeration... I'm not sure where I found the design (probably a FWW Method's of Work article)... I'm sure there are many on the internet... If not, I'll shoot a photo of mine... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 I've never done tapers start to finish on the jointer but I've cleaned them up after bandsaw/table saw several times. Usually only junglewood...I'll take the handplane to domestics.Just so you know, JT...you don't have to have a jig to cut tapers on the bandsaw. Just freehand right outside the line then clean up. I would argue this is faster than doing it at the jointer alone.In my shop the jointer is a one trick pony...a face and an edge flat and square is its only job. I've found faster and easier ways to do everything else the jointer can do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wouldwurker Posted November 22, 2015 Popular Post Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 In my shop the jointer is a one trick pony...Eric, in your shop, the jointer is a no trick pony. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 Norm always used to clean up table sawn cut tapers (usually legs) with a light pass on the jointer. I personally would never do the start to finish method but cut on the TS using a suitable workholding jig and then finish with a jointer plane or jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike M Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 I've tried the jointer method and it worked well, especially since I didn't need a cleanup pass, just sanding.I prefer the TS method since it is faster and doesn't produce a ton of chips. I also appreciate the leftover wedges that come in handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 (edited) I've used the jointer, table saw, and band saw.I prefer the table saw, with a good 20 tooth rip blade, for the fastest, most identical legs. Combo blades will often burn thick rips, thin blades may deflect, creating a curved definition from taper to flat.As for time spent making a jig... Remember, only people on the Internet spend many hours and dollars building pretty and widely adjustable infrequent use jigs. My taper jig is simply a 3/4" birch ply floor glued to a single 1/4" plywood runner, with the reference line created by a pass through the blade.. The cleats that locate the blanks are simply screwed in place using a mark on the first blank. Last, I screw two snap clamps to the floor.I think it took 20 minutes to make, including a coffee refill. Sometimes, I steal the clamps for other uses. For different tapers, I simply unscrew the clamps and cleats and move them... The reference line always stays the same, because the blade is always the same distance from the miter slot. Who cares if the jig looks like something from "Shop Notes", the output looks terrific! For more than two tapered sides, simply tape an offcut back on, appropriately located to account for the kerf.If anybody wants a picture, just let me know... Edited November 23, 2015 by CessnaPilotBarry 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobInAustin Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 I use my jointer for tapering legs.... a No. 7. Right after a No. 5 and just before a No. 4. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 ==>Right after a No. 5Every try cross-cutting a series of kerfs along the taper? Would make hogging-off the waste with a #5 go a bit faster... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strasberry Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 (edited) I prefer cutting the tapers on my band saw and then one pass over the jointer to clean them up! You can use the same jig as on a table saw. Edited November 24, 2015 by Strasberry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 ==>Right after a No. 5Every try cross-cutting a series of kerfs along the taper? Would make hogging-off the waste with a #5 go a bit faster...Yes it does! Some well placed kerfs make a huge difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobInAustin Posted November 25, 2015 Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 ==>Right after a No. 5Every try cross-cutting a series of kerfs along the taper? Would make hogging-off the waste with a #5 go a bit faster...Once, just to be used as depth indicators. But that seemed like more work and thus it took longer. First time I did it by hand, I was truly amazed at just how fast it goes. (Really the wrong forum for this. Didn't mean to pull this away from the OP's request which I've never tried and probably never would.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Bienlein Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Cut them on the table saw and take them right to the jointer for a pass on each taper. No hand plane needed for this operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeHoncho Posted December 24, 2015 Report Share Posted December 24, 2015 Just used it for the first time on 3x3 oak with a 1 inch taper over 10 inches so it was a pretty steep angle. It worked great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wareaglewoodworker Posted December 26, 2015 Report Share Posted December 26, 2015 Is it just me or is that a pretty neat design idea on the leg after the first passes (3:40 mark)? I wonder what it would look like to do a couple of steps with that design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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