morganew Posted November 25, 2015 Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 Those of you who read popular woodworking's blog may have seen Chris Schwarz's article on where he puts his holes. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/holdfast-holes-where-should-they-be-locatedUnfortunately, his layout doesn't quite work with the TWW Split-top. So I am wondering: what pattern did you use? did you have a pattern at all? how do you like your hole placement?(I am leaving all various and sundry hole jokes to the imagination of the reader) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 25, 2015 Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 I use a construction lumber bench, but find that a large number of holdfast locations is unnecessary. Think about your working habits, you may realize the just 2 or 3 locations meet all your needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 25, 2015 Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 (edited) I followed the BC plan, but added a few additional as I gained experience with the work holding 'flow' of the Roubo. I think I added a total of three additional holes to the BC plan -- basically to secure a plane stop st the leg-vise end and a second in-line hole at the wagon vice end. I forget where the third went, but it addressed a coverage gap in the center field...Note: I use Veritas clamping holdfasts: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=31149&cat=1,41637 which have wider coverage than the Gramercy (specified in the build). I suspect if I used the Gramercy, I'd have needed one or two additional holes.My top is a full 4", so I counterbored a 1" hole 1" deep in the bottom with a forstner bit. I used the Veritas bench drilling jig for alignment: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,41637&p=72602 with a 3/4 auger bit...I used Veritas bench anchors: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=59754&cat=1,41637 for my plane stops and other surface jigs... Edited November 25, 2015 by hhh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morganew Posted November 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 but where are they located? close to the front? back a long way? equidistant between the split and the face? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 25, 2015 Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 If you look at the BC plan, it'll be obvious... If you want, I'll measure them next time I'm in the shop... Let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morganew Posted November 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 our posts crossed in the wind. My earlier response was to wtnhighlander Good to know that the BC plans are working for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 25, 2015 Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 My advice --Work with a bench for awhile to get a feel for your workflow before turning the top into Swiss cheese... You don't really need that many holes... The BC plan is pretty good, but the holes assume a couple of specific bench accessories... Ahhh, now I remember, the [third] extra hole was in the front slab to support a carving vice -- I use the Veritas carving vice that attaches from below the bench with a through dog hole... All three of my extra holes are in the front slab:6 1/4 from left edge, 3" from gap (plane stop)19" from right edge, 3 1/2 from gap (balances surface holding on right side of bench)The last hole is based on the requirements of my carving vice, so it's location is not important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted November 25, 2015 Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 Trip, I was looking at the holdfast that you have. Do you tighten the brass knob to put pressure on you work piece instead of tapping the holdfast in place with a mallet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 25, 2015 Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 Yup. It's all about leverage... You don't have to torque down on the knob at all to impart a good deal of downward pressure at the stock-end. I've tried several brands of holdfast (include some hand forged ones) and these work a lot better. To get the same holding with minimal knob pressure, I'd have to whack the sh*t out of the holdfasts...BTW: I usually contact-cement a pad of leather on holdfasts to protect the stock... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 our posts crossed in the wind. My earlier response was to wtnhighlander Good to know that the BC plans are working for you. My bench is only 60" x 22", and I use 4 holes, 2 on each side, about 3" from the edge and spaced at 20" from each end. Since I own a wopping 1 holdfast, I have a couple of round pegs that drop into other holes to act as stops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 I'm with trip, I found it impossible to drill a straight hole thru 4" of bench with a hand held drill. I too ordered the guide from LV and it made all the difference in the world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Yup. It's all about leverage... You don't have to torque down on the knob at all to impart a good deal of downward pressure at the stock-end. I've tried several brands of holdfast (include some hand forged ones) and these work a lot better. To get the same holding with minimal knob pressure, I'd have to whack the sh*t out of the holdfasts...BTW: I usually contact-cement a pad of leather on holdfasts to protect the stock...Getting a LV order ready, will include a pair of those... with the short posts... and also the drill guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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