Rabbeting hand planes vs non


G262

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Benefits of non-rabbet:

There is a bit more ruggedness with standard as the sides are not cut through. 

You cannot easily chute/shoot with a rabbet. 

Rabbets are typically ground square with standard cambered to not leave track marks. 

Caveat:

Some block planes have removable side plates. This can give you a little taste of standard action. 

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I guess I found a treasure then. I picked one of three on eBay at the time all listed at 40ish with blemishes of no consequence. I am a user. That said, I don't use the 10 nearly as often as a 5 (which I picked up several at less than 30.) That brings my 5 and 10 to less than 100 with patience. 

I just know that a premium LN or LV is not the only option and am trying to open the conversation to broaden the scope of consideration. Richard's 92 is great for tiny tenons. The 10 or new rabbet jack are great for large format tenon. The blocks fall in between. If a two pass swipe does not bother you or if you don't raise panels by hand, I struggle to put out cash for the LN or LV unless you want a block plane. Then I am fan of both standard and skew. I don't see nearly as many good used rabbeting blocks. Someone else might see something I don't in the rabbet jacks. 

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Useless your hand hewing timber frames a carriage maker's plane wouldn't be any more useful then a regular No. 5. Unless I was a collector, I couldn't justify the increase in cost. Now a rabbeting block plane or shoulder plane are definetly useful making/cleaning up rabbets and tenons. Dados too can be cut with a scribed line and shoulder plane of the right size.

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I was replicating 4 panel Colonial doors in an 1860. Full through tenon (pegged) in 4" stiles with 4", 6", and 10" rails. I don't see guy cutting rabbets this way anymore. There are too many better dedicated rabbet planes. I just like the width with big tenons. Really just depends on the project load. 

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