D J Pavlica Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 I need to begin trying my hand at making dovetails. The company who had been making these for me cant keep up with my requests. So I am going to give it a try. I have a box that has sides with depth of 22" and along the top of this I need to make thru dovetails for the side and top. What is needed I have no idea. Which Jig and Templates I have no idea. Do you believe that this is all once piece then dovetailed ? That's what it looks like to me. These are 1" Dovetails . I don't need 1" when making my own. Plus they are from a huge CNC router. Appreciate hearing your thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary-ks Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 One of the things you will need to pick up is a 24 inch Leigh Dove Tail Jig like this one. This brand will cost about $600.00 Then pick yourself up a set of Whiteside dove tail bits... For a complete set they cost around $95.00 Now for a router I like Porter Cable but there are a lot of different one on the market.... $160.00 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 39 minutes ago, D J Pavlica said: I need to make thru dovetails for the side and top Your picture is half blind dovetails, not through. Another option is a 24" porter cable omni jig. 39 minutes ago, D J Pavlica said: Do you believe that this is all once piece then dovetailed ? Yes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 If you go the Leigh route, set two routers up, and keep them dedicated to the two bits required. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 I use the Keller dovetail jig. The pro version is a bit quicker and almost fool proof. It is fixed spacing . I set up 2 routers and leave them that way too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 i have the D4R from leigh and i think its a great machine, very versatile, and easy to use. i don't have two dedicated routers to leave set up for it but i do use a caliper to measure bit depth so i have somewhere to start on the test board. it is on the pricey side ( i have the 24") and i would recommend the vacuum attachment for it as it does a good job of chip removal and ads stability to the router when you are making your cuts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharleyL Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 I have the Leigh D4R and wouldn't try making this long joint any other way. The Porter Cable 24" jig may also work fine, but I have no experience with that one. I also recommend the vacuum attachment as it works well and supports the front edge of the router, but it will still allow you to get sawdust on the floor and you..The manual that comes with the D4R will have you making a near perfect dovetail joint on your first try,if you follow it, but you may need a few slight adjustments to get it perfect. Practice with your jig and wood of exactly the same thickness before trying to make good joints in your project. In the beginning, I was raising the top of the jig to change the board and then forgetting to drop it back down flat on the board. If you do this, the joint will be a complete failure. I always use two routers, one with the straight bit, and one with the dovetail bit. Once they are adjusted to the correct depth, you don't want to have to change the bit and set it up all over again. If both routers are the same make and model (mine are), put some tape on the top of the routers and mark them plainly for what router bit is in them DAMHIKT. I prefer fixed base D style router bases for this work, but most any fixed base router will do the job, if it can be used with the correct sized bushing for the jig. Also, put an arrow on the top side of your router bases, and always point this arrow straight toward the jig when doing the cuts. If you do this, any slight error of the router base and bushing centering will not affect the accuracy of the joint. You should try to center the bushing and bit before using the router, but this arrow minimizes problems. Through dovetail joints are easier to get right for me. The half blind take more test cuts to get the routers and bits set just right before making the joint. Make test cuts and get everything set exactly right, and get used to how the jig works before attempting the good joints. These jigs are nowhere near as easy to set up as your table saw. It will take time to learn them and get them set up correctly. Charley . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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