Using a portable jobsite table saw for cabinet/shop/furniture work...


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I have an older ridgid 3650, and i have been thinking about upgrading for years.  The problem is that it has always done everything I have asked of it - and has done it perfectly!  It's a 1.5 HP motor, but I have no issue ripping or crosscutting any hardwoods.  I have built with 12/4 ash, and it handled it like a champ.

The only problem with this saw is that it's out of production!  If you find one used, ensure that the Arbor is the right length - there was a run of these saws wayyy back that had an Arbor problem (well documented on ridgid forum).

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Another consideration is that a direct drive saw can't have the motor replaced cost effectively, so a used one is probably not worth it unless you get a big discount.  I have the Bosch and it suits me fine, but I use lots of hand tools so only use the table saw for rips and then fold it up and stick it back in the corner out of the way.  If you're going to be a guy that uses it for most cuts then everyone else is right that you'll be better off with a heftier style. 

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Just one more person jumping on the Ridgid bandwagon. I have the R4512 which sells for $550 brand new (thought it looks like they stopped selling it in the last couple of months). It comes pre-wired for 120V and is easily rewired for 240V. That means you can get one and use it out of the box and make stuff while you save the money for the electrical work, rather than paying for the electrical first and waiting to use the tool.

Also, if you find a used one for cheap, I have the original fence for mine that I never took out of the box. If you need the parts, I'll give you a really good deal :)

-E

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On 1/11/2017 at 3:08 PM, Dolmetscher007 said:

I've decided not to buy it. I'm going to save my money, and wait until I get a good shop table saw. If anything, I could put the $325 towards getting at least a couple of 220V outlets put in the garage/shop. 

 

I think that's a wise move.  Portables are great for construction when you need to move a saw from site to site...they can even be accurate, but they give up a lot when substituted for a full size stationary saw.  The landing zone in front of the blade is vastly larger on a full size saw, not to mention the torque, noise differences, mass, upgradability, reliability, and acceptance of accessories.  

The ABCs of Table Saws

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Man... this has been SUCH a helpful thread. First and foremost, it has brought me down to reality. Which is...

  1. I want to buy a table saw that I can use for building furniture, and not just one that was designed to be taken to a job site. 
  2. BUT... I do not want to spend $3k on an esoteric professional model that has features I may want, but do not need. 

I've been eyeballing Delta Unisaws, and Powermatic table saws, trying to think of ways to finance one so that I can afford one. Not only can I not afford one... I feel kind of like an a**hole for even thinking I should buy a saw that nice. I am not a professional woodworker. I work in software. I basically saw 3/4" Home Depot plywood to make coffee tables and night stands that I veneer or paint to look cool. I do not need a 5 HP, 3-phase motor for blasting through 12/4 purple heart slabs. I've never even seen 12/4 purple heart, except on television. The hardest wood I've ever actually cut on a table saw is poplar. 

So... does anyone have a recommendation that is in the same class as the: Delta 36-5000, Delta 36-5100, and the Ridgid 10 in. Cast Iron Table Saw?

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Man... this has been SUCH a helpful thread. First and foremost, it has brought me down to reality. Which is...

  1. I want to buy a table saw that I can use for building furniture, and not just one that was designed to be taken to a job site. 
  2. BUT... I do not want to spend $3k on an esoteric professional model that has features I may want, but do not need. 
I've been eyeballing Delta Unisaws, and Powermatic table saws, trying to think of ways to finance one so that I can afford one. Not only can I not afford one... I feel kind of like an a**hole for even thinking I should buy a saw that nice. I am not a professional woodworker. I work in software. I basically saw 3/4" Home Depot plywood to make coffee tables and night stands that I veneer or paint to look cool. I do not need a 5 HP, 3-phase motor for blasting through 12/4 purple heart slabs. I've never even seen 12/4 purple heart, except on television. The hardest wood I've ever actually cut on a table saw is poplar. 

So... does anyone have a recommendation that is in the same class as the: Delta 36-5000, Delta 36-5100, and the Ridgid 10 in. Cast Iron Table Saw?

It sounds like you're looking for the same sort of thing I was when I bought my saw last year. I ended up buying the Ridgid r4512, and I really have no regrets. It's been very capable for what I've wanted to do, the fence has been decent, and the price was right. That being said, it's definitely not as powerful as a 3+ hp cabinet saw, and there are a few minor annoyances, but that's what I expected. It will cut up to 8/4 without an issue if you're careful and use the right blades, and 12/4 can be cut slowly if you need to. I do feel like a saw like that is basically the minimum to be able to use for woodworking and not be completely limited by it. You can certainly go used to spend less, but for me a riving knife and usable blade guards were an absolute requirement so I bought new.

Others will recommend a grizzly in this range, and I can't really offer an opinion since I've never used one. The Delta has good and bad points compared to the ridgid, but I didn't consider it because it was hard to get here. Good luck!

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