lighter weight wood box


treesner

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Hey guys I built a chuck box for camping with 1/2 ply and 1/4 ply back. Curious if you had any ideas on how to build this lighter. I was thinking maybe a solid wood frame with thinner plywood backing (like kitchen cabinet fronts) or maybe even copper sheet metal (aesthetics, not sure if it's lighter than thin plywood)

 

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Love the artistic details in that!  Such a utilitarian box with those touches is nice. 

Personally, for car based camping gear, I prefer some heft to it.  Durability is a key thing for me.  Maybe that's cause I was brought up in a scouting family, and camping gear needs to survive 20 years of 12 year olds using it. 

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51 minutes ago, Marmotjr said:

Love the artistic details in that!  Such a utilitarian box with those touches is nice. 

Personally, for car based camping gear, I prefer some heft to it.  Durability is a key thing for me.  Maybe that's cause I was brought up in a scouting family, and camping gear needs to survive 20 years of 12 year olds using it. 

I don't believe that anything can survive 20 years of 12 year olds... Or those 12 year olds aren't trying hard enough. ;) 

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Maybe 25 years ago my dad built patrol boxes for our troop.  They were boxes about 36-40" long, 24" or so wide, and about 18" deep, with a coffin style lid.  Axle and wheels on one end, handles on the other.  Everything was laminated 3/4" ply, so 1.5" thick, the edges had another layer of 3/4" for reinforcing.  Then the whole thing had a layer of epoxy brushed on, thinned down to let it soak in, and then a thicker layer on top.  Sanded smooth, and then painted.   So yeah, basically a 2.25" thick plywood fiberglass coffin.  

A couple of the boxes have needed some minor repairs, but usually just the axles, wheels, handles, or hinges needed replacing, but the box themselves are still going strong for the troop. 

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  • 4 months later...

A thin layer of plywood makes much better sense to me. In essence he is making a stress skin panel or a hollow core door. You could wrap a stick of solid wood around a piece of foam and cover both sides with 1/4" or 1/8"  ply. A thin layer of adhesive to bond the ply to the foam and frame is important. Water based contact cement would do nicely. You can make the frame wider where you need to attach hardware & you could add cross pieces where shelves or dividers need to attach. 

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I think that's a pretty darn neat concept. I think Steve's idea about the 1/4" ply is good on the top side, but I would leave the  laminate on the bottom for a smooth slide. Then I would attach the fence with screws from the underside, using the five turn dealy to insure it being square. I guess time will tell if the pocket screws will hold up. 

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13 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

If it's a sled thin ply & laminate on the top and bottom would be smart. A bit wider frame would be smart as well. I thought you were applying the sled construction methods to the camping kitchen.

I hate compromises! No one comes out on top:D 

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