Chris Kocher Posted May 5, 2018 Report Share Posted May 5, 2018 Hi all, I finally got back into woodworking (since high school 10 years ago) and everything has been a learning process during my project. I'm looking to finish a live edge coffee table (and also two console tables and a side table for next to my couch made) made of sycamore wood with the following conditions but am having trouble finding the 'just right' method/products. The following is my ideal finish for this project. Enhanced grain while yet conserving the light tone of sycamore to keep as natural looking as possible Low Sheen (Matte preferred) Non-yellowing Protected from water, booze, food Protected from scratches Preserve the texture if possible I am willing to touch up the finish when needed so that is not a concern to me; however I would still like it to be durable so that it will last a long time. I really want to keep these pieces looking as natural as possible, just finished. Here are some picks thus far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 5, 2018 Report Share Posted May 5, 2018 General Finishes makes some good waterbourne finishes. Several versions , some are very slightly amber toned , others are perfectly clear. They even have exterior grade finishes. You will get better results spraying most of them. Arm-r-seal is a wipe on varnish that lots of the guys here swear by. I use a pre catalyzed waterbourne finish(Agualente) by ML Campbell that's usually just sold to pro shops. You can get satin or dull sheen in most clear top coat finishes. You can also rub a cured finish with a Scotch Brite gray pad to reduce the sheen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Kocher Posted May 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2018 Thank you for the reply. I actually have been eyeing up the general finishes but since they are waterbased (which would be good for keeping the natural color) I am worried about the durability when it comes to water/alcohol. I would attempt to use coasters and such regardless but know there will be instances where one wont be used. That has been my main concern with the waterbased finishes but otherwise believe they hit all the other criteria Id be looking for. Have not yet come across your ML Campbell product in my research but once again, waterbased, so would have same concern. What is your (or others) view on that concern? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 6, 2018 Report Share Posted May 6, 2018 I haven't had any problems with Agualente on tabletops. A table I built for a client about 7 years ago was for a couple that observes happy hour so regularly you could set a watch. I saw it the other day and it looks fine. General's Exterior 450 or Enduro Clear Poly might do the job as well. Any finish manufacturer will instruct you to clean up water & alcohol spills in a timely manor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted May 6, 2018 Report Share Posted May 6, 2018 General Finishes are great products. I have used their High Performance and Enduro Var and both seem to be pretty durable. The High Performance won't enhance your grain. Endure Var but has a slight amber tone to it but I don't believe it will continue to yellow over time. They both spray well. I think if I were trying to achieve you task I would probably use some Super Blonde shellac, preferable de-waxed flakes not the canned pre-made stuff, followed by spraying three coats of High Performance or Enduro Clear Poly that Steve mentioned. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted May 8, 2018 Report Share Posted May 8, 2018 To enhance the grain before using a water base finish, I use a coat or 2 of shellac. Do a practice piece first to be sure you like the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted May 8, 2018 Report Share Posted May 8, 2018 As a side to what you're doing. Sycamore grows around water, and sucks up any water it can. When dried, in order to cut down on moisture movement, make sure you get every part of your project sealed. If it's humid, and there's an unsealed place in the wood, it will pull in that moisture. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 9, 2018 Report Share Posted May 9, 2018 17 hours ago, RichardA said: As a side to what you're doing. Sycamore grows around water, and sucks up any water it can. When dried, in order to cut down on moisture movement, make sure you get every part of your project sealed. If it's humid, and there's an unsealed place in the wood, it will pull in that moisture. Or leave one end unsealed and stand the wood on that end to allow the water to seep out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted May 9, 2018 Report Share Posted May 9, 2018 Tee many martoonies, Coop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted May 9, 2018 Report Share Posted May 9, 2018 -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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