Favorite turned legs?


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Nabbed a piece of particle board.  Painted it white and drew some pretty lines thereupon.  Started chopping, drilling, and turning.  Yay, Monday.  

One trumpet... ...Two trumpets... ...I love to count the trumpets.  Ha Ha Ha

Still a few details to clean up but I think we can call it essentially done for the purposes of this thread.  Some lessons learned: The square portion of the legs above the pommels should be sma

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That briefest of moments when one asks, "Does it really need the feet and crossed stretchers?"

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And all the boards in the shop scream in unison, "Yes!"  And I apologize to the lumber for a clear and flagrant thoughtcrime.  And so it goes.

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I can easily see either version working well. My personal tendency is to overbuild because I know that abuse will be applied sporadically and if I build it any life less than 100 years would be a disappointment.

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Patterns.  More patterns.  In this case, I worked out part of the geometry in SketchUp and then started in with compasses and bevel gauges.  Pattern stock was part of the shipping crate for the new lathe.  Grizzly boxes their wares in decent quality stock.

Where the two curves have their little jog, the stock gets down to 7/8" wide.  That's about as spindly as I dare go.  Should look cool with two of them crossed and half-lapped.

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Even with a good template and a sharp bit, the router still burned, bit, and scratched enough that every one of these curves needed a lot of sanding.  Mmmm, sanding.  My favorite.

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With dowels in the legs, I can get the stretchers set exactly how they need to be.  If these were straight pieces, the half lap could be cut with a table saw.  Curves are only marginally more challenging:  Scribe the lines and use a plunge router.  If you've done any inlay work, this is the same thing.

I already carted my offcuts out to the burn pile and they got rained on last night.  No loss for firewood purposes but it means they're no longer accurate enough to use for setting up this cut.  I erred on the side of cutting too deeply and assembled the joint with 5-minute epoxy.  Messy (whence the masking tape) but plenty good at filling a gappy half lap.

In W&M pieces, these stretchers get a finial in the middle, so there'll eventually be a screw holding the joint together.  Mmmm, finials.  My second favorite.

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1 hour ago, Bombarde16 said:

Mmmm, sanding.  My favorite.

Liar! :D

I'm liking this build, I don't know if it's quite my style but i really appreciate the craftsmanship. I never really got into turned legs. I don't know why but I'm envious of the skill it takes to get the legs to be the same.

 

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50 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

I never really got into turned legs. I don't know why but I'm envious of the skill it takes to get the legs to be the same.

Well, then, let me read you in on the secret of turned legs:  They're not the same.  The four corners of a table are separated by such distance that you'll never see the inaccuracies in my turning.  Moreover, one really needs to view at least three spindles lined up in a row (impossible in a table) to pick out inaccuracies.  A balustrade, for example, would be a much more exacting test than a quartet of table legs.

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It helps to have multiple spring calipers so you're not constantly changing and resetting dimensions.  It's a tremendous help to do a full size drawing on a piece of sheet stock.  I kept this right at the lathe and referenced it constantly.  It helps to make a prototype, since spindle turnings aren't as easy to model in SketchUp.  While there's a dozen different turning tools that could get the job done, it's worth putting in the time to make friends with that most intimidating of beasts, the skew.  Put it all together, and you understand why the old guys would often subcontract out any turned pieces in their work.  You also appreciate why railings and newel posts today are a specialty item made by computers.

Personally, I'm not sure it's my style either.  Blame Mark J for leading us down the William & Mary path.  That said, I'm glad I gave it a shot and can certainly see myself putting more turned pieces in my work.

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First coat of shellac is on.  Still need to get working on the top and God only knows when I'm going to get drawers in this thing.

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Oh I'm well aware that they aren't exactly the same, or so turners always say they aren't. It's good enough to fool me. I'd probably still not be able to make 4 close enough to fool some one on a table.

Now I'm imagining a table with 4 drastically different legs and giggling because I'd totally do that.

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23 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Now I'm imagining a table with 4 drastically different legs and giggling because I'd totally do that.

I dare you.

Four legs in different styles, different shapes, different wood species, different everything...except for the length, obviously, so the table can sit level.  That would be cool.  Should have had that idea on the first page of this thread and maybe we'd be in a different place.

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14 hours ago, Bombarde16 said:

I dare you.

Four legs in different styles, different shapes, different wood species, different everything...except for the length, obviously, so the table can sit level.  That would be cool.  Should have had that idea on the first page of this thread and maybe we'd be in a different place.

I'd do it. I don't have a lathe. There is this draw to having one but i need to just stay away. It seems like a costly rabbit hole at times and i have enough costly rabbit holes in my life.

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16 hours ago, Bombarde16 said:

Blame Mark J for leading us down the William & Mary path 

Hey I never said I liked William and Mary, I'm more into Federal or Goddard and Townsend.  But I do like your coffee table.  It's toned down W&M and very well executed.  

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57 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

I'd do it. I don't have a lathe. There is this draw to having one but i need to just stay away. It seems like a costly rabbit hole at times and i have enough costly rabbit holes in my life.

"No really, Chestnut, the water is fine.   Jump right in and join us", the Sirens call.  (You should be hearing the strains of Hotel California in the background).

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34 minutes ago, Mark J said:

"No really, Chestnut, the water is fine.   Jump right in and join us", the Sirens call.  (You should be hearing the strains of Hotel California in the background).

Thanks. Thanks a lot. Now i have hotel California stuck in my head. So i just decided to listen to it....

I shall name you wood turners Darkfriends and scratch a dragon fang on your door! Light save me!

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That briefest of moments when I contemplate the base in its incomplete state thinking, "I can make the drawers later.  Let's just get it in place and out of the shop." I've got too much going on and am playing hooky from more important work to build this table.  But I've gotten it this far and don't want to condemn the piece to eternal unfinishedness.

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Dovetail jig is in pieces in storage.  These are small, light-duty drawers.  So I'm trying rabbets & butt joints which will be pinned with dowels later tonight.

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It's hard to argue with a sequential grain match.

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4 minutes ago, K Cooper said:

What is the purpose of the sides of the drawers extending past the back? I’ve seen it done before and this is a question and not a comment. Looking great man! 

It allows me to fine tune how far the drawers slide into the openings.  Trim the tails of the drawer sides to make positive contact with the back of the opening and you've got a good way to ensure the drawer lands where you want it.

Beyond that and in this case, I simply goofed.  The drawer bottoms came from a 4'x2' sheet of 1/4" ply that's been kicking around the shop for forever.  I made my first rip and found I was off by a 1/4".  Clearly, I can't math.  Now that entire strip is useless. I worked it out but the drawer bottoms came out noticeably shorter than the full depth of the drawers.

Still turned out big enough to hold a remote control.  So that's all that matters.

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2 minutes ago, Bombarde16 said:

It allows me to fine tune how far the drawers slide into the openings.  Trim the tails of the drawer sides to make positive contact with the back of the opening and you've got a good way to ensure the drawer lands where you want it.

Beyond that and in this case, I simply goofed.  The drawer bottoms came from a 4'x2' sheet of 1/4" ply that's been kicking around the shop for forever.  I made my first rip and found I was off by a 1/4".  Clearly, I can't math.  Now that entire strip is useless. I worked it out but the drawer bottoms came out noticeably shorter than the full depth of the drawers.

Still turned out big enough to hold a remote control.  So that's all that matters.

Darn good idea. Now no reason for stop blocks!

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