I need a new router....what do you recommend?


Nick2cd

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I have recently been eyeing the the Mortise Pal as you may have seen in my mortise and tenons thread. anyways, i came to the realization that my router is too wimpy to support the mortise pal. my router only has a 1/4" collet. i need 1/2". (im starting to think it would be cheaper to scrap the mortise pal and just get a festool domino :blink: ) anwyays, i need some 1/2" collet router recommendations. here's the specs i need.....i need it to have plunge capability, 1/2" collet, 3.25 HP would be a plus but i will consider lower horsepower. i'd like to be able to make raised panels and rails/stiles at some point. so, lay it on me!

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Although, the Festool Domino rocks from everything I see, it does not replace the need for a larger router for doing mortises. Maybe I'm wrong and you can use more of the small dominos, but I'd get a router. I have five for various operations and although they are the worst for dust collection, until I can afford to buy into the Festool system, I continue to use them. Ultimately, I'll get the Festool routers because of their dust collection capabilities.

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I have been eyeballing the Tritons. They have an above the table adjustment, and they are reasonable.

The Bosch 2.25 kit has been good choice for years. You can get them almost anywhere.

i have a buddy that bought this and loves it, but im concerned that it won't be enough power to do a raised panel or rail/stile.

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i have a buddy that bought this and loves it, but im concerned that it won't be enough power to do a raised panel or rail/stile.

'it' == the Bosch? I think the Triton Chad is talking about is over 3 hp. They make smaller ones, but that 3 hp seems to be a real winner for in-table use. I haven't used one yet. In my case, that 2.25hp Bosch (1617EVS) is what I have in the table.

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I'm using a 2.25HP Freud right now. In a table it's great, hand held it's got some issues (speed control gets jammed with dust, plunge lock is a pain, etc) but is OK. I primarily use it in the table though.

I think 2.25HP is plenty of juice for most things. There seems to be a big push to 3HP motor routers in the last year or two. I haven't used a 3HP router yet so I can't speak to how they work but I can say that there is a difference in physical size and weight from a 2.25 to 3HP. That may be something to think about if you are thinking of using it by hand. In a table, it probably won't matter that much.

If I were looking today, I would also be thinking about dust control mechanisms for both health and just to save time cleaning up after using the router. Nothing other then my planer can throw chips like the router can but at least the planer throws them in one direction. My router throws them all over the place and especially right back at me when in use.

My friend has a Bosch 2.25hp that he swears by (and he's a big DeWalt guy so that's saying something)...

-Jim

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Look at the motor amperage instead of HP. More power is rarely a problem in a table router, and is usually an asset. 11-13 amps is typically enough to do occasional raised panels with a big horizontal panel raiser, but it will labor more than a 15 amp motor, which can shorten it's life. If you plan to do a lot of them, I'd definitely go with the 15 amp...it'll simply handle the job easier. Any from Milwaukee, Freud, Triton, Bosch, Makita, PC, DW, or Hitachi will do nicely, but only the Tritons and the Freud FT1700 and FT3000 offer an extended collet that protrudes through the table and have an auto collet lock that allows easy one handed bit changes from above the table, as well as above table height adjust and height lock.

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'it' == the Bosch? I think the Triton Chad is talking about is over 3 hp. They make smaller ones, but that 3 hp seems to be a real winner for in-table use. I haven't used one yet. In my case, that 2.25hp Bosch (1617EVS) is what I have in the table.

sorry, i was a bit ambiguous there. i was referring to the bosch router. im concerned it will be under-powered. i have played with the bosch at lowes and it seems really smooth. i'd love to get that one but can it handle a raised panel door?

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I would think that the only reason you would need a 3.25 is if you were doing raised panels. But that is a different project all together. Lots of people use a 2.25 for that as well. I have never run out of power with a 2.25, but I bet someone has a better idea where you would.

I mainly point out the tritons because they have been on sale.

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WOOD magazine did a recent review of 1/2" routers. The Bosch MRC23EVS earned top tool honors with both a plunge and fixed base for $325. It actually beat out the Tritons by a fair amount and reading the article makes me see why. I currently have an old single speed 1/4" Black and Decker from my grandfather, a 1/4" Bosch palm router, 1/2" Hitachi M-12V (piece of junk) and the smaller Triton mounted in my Sommerfeld router table. I am hoping to purchase the MRC23EVS this year and junk my Hitachi.

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I'm using a 2.25HP Freud right now. In a table it's great, hand held it's got some issues (speed control gets jammed with dust, plunge lock is a pain, etc) but is OK. I primarily use it in the table though.

I think 2.25HP is plenty of juice for most things. There seems to be a big push to 3HP motor routers in the last year or two. I haven't used a 3HP router yet so I can't speak to how they work but I can say that there is a difference in physical size and weight from a 2.25 to 3HP. That may be something to think about if you are thinking of using it by hand. In a table, it probably won't matter that much.

If I were looking today, I would also be thinking about dust control mechanisms for both health and just to save time cleaning up after using the router. Nothing other then my planer can throw chips like the router can but at least the planer throws them in one direction. My router throws them all over the place and especially right back at me when in use.

My friend has a Bosch 2.25hp that he swears by (and he's a big DeWalt guy so that's saying something)...

-Jim

I think the weight works in your favor, though. More stability, more mass so hitting a rough spot (knotty area?) won't bounce the router around. Once you lift it and put it down on the material, you're just pushing it. Of course, this depends on your application. In the case of a climb-cut (for final cleanup pass), mass is your friend.

Definitely agree with the dust control. Sometimes a cut I make requires removing the dust shroud. Besides the dust and chips everywhere, sometimes the debris ahead of the router on the work surface starts to get under the router base messing up your cut. Same problem if you are using an edge guide (actually both in this case).

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