How to cut 1 inch Crosshatch Pattern

[Sean P.]

How would you go about cutting a crosshatch pattern, think multiple half laps to form a grid, that is larger than what a dado stack can accommodate? My dado stack only allows me to cut dadoes up to 3/4 inch but I want to cut a crosshatch panel that uses 1 inch material so each half lap will need to be 1 inch wide. I am trying to find or build a jig that will allow for repeatable cuts since if one cut is a hair off the entire thing will not fit together so marking out each cut wont work. My thought is to use a 1/2 inch dado stack with a box joint jig but I cannot figure out how big the key needs to be and the placement of the key on the jig to get the 1inch cut. Any suggestions for plans or has anyone set something like this up? 
 

Here is a picture of a small door I did for a hanging whiskey cabinet but the spacing was only 3/4 inch and I want to do a larger version with 1 inch pieces. 

[Chip Sawdust]

Not sure how a finger joint jig would work for you so I'm not sure my idea will help, but have you thought about a series of spacers next to your fence, and removing spacer(s) after each cut to move the piece over to its next position?

Might take a pile of spacers but it would control the process.

[Mick S]

The finger joint jig concept would work.

First, make a jig using either a sled or a fixture on your miter gauge that has a pin the exact width of your dado stack, ¾". Cut one dado to the final width of 1" and use it as a spacer to set the pin plus a 1/4" spacer so that by cutting on one side of the pin you're cutting the left side of the dado (¾" and sliding it over to the other edge of the first dado you're cutting the right edge. In other words, by using the spacer for the first cut, you're cutting a 3/4" dado. Remove the spacer and slide the material against the pin, make the second (1/4") cut. From there on just cut against the left, then right side of the previous dado. Rinse repeat.

[wtnhighlander]

I think you can use the finger joint jig. With a 1/2" pin and 1/2" dado stack, and the pin placed 1" away from the blade, you should just need a 1/2" spacer between the pin and the end of the board to offset the first cut. After that, the edges of each cut position against the pin to set the next cut.

Since the first cut will only be 1/2" from the end of the board, you may have to make the boards longer and trim to length after the laps cuts are made.

Or I am totally, wrong.... 

[pkinneb]

I just used the concepts above to do this for a wine rack. Now in my case I used a dado stack and one pass but you could easily have done it in two passes with a smaller stack.

[Sean P.]

Thank you everyone for your quick suggestions. I will try out a few of these and see what works!