Popular Post gee-dub Posted December 26, 2021 Popular Post Report Posted December 26, 2021 A small project but I like to keep the conversation going around here ;-) I had mentioned elsewhere that I had gathered up the veneering supplies I have purchased over the last couple of years. Using some cabinet grade play as a substrate and band-sawn cherry for veneer I am making up some parts for a shadow box frame for a friend or a friend. I cut the veneered blanks to size and put some miters on the ends. This thing will be about 2' x 3' x 4 " deep. At that size a spline at the corner is not a bad idea. I will pre-finish the inside surfaces. A raking light helps make sure I don't get any surprises. A little muddy looking but the interior will get some more attention before I am through. The design will have a panel that hangs on the wall. The things to be displayed go on the panel. The shadow box will fit onto this panel. This lets the large frame hang from the panel versus the frame supporting the balance of the piece and the contents. To this end there will be a hidden french cleat between the panel and the frame. I swear this will make more sense later ;-) I need the cleat to be reasonably stout without being too large since I want it hidden. This profile is what I came up with. The portion shown against the fence above will be removed leaving a long (wide) tongue. I feel better ripping something small like this on the bandsaw. I failed to get a picture of that cleat let in on the top frame member . I'll see if I can explain it later on. This might explain why i have 3 dozen of these little Bessey clamps. I put an astragal profile on some shop made moulding that will . . . frame the frame. I think I could have waited a while to start this thread. I thought I had more done than this . To be continued . . . 5 Quote
wtnhighlander Posted December 26, 2021 Report Posted December 26, 2021 What do you like to use for the spline material? More ply? Quote
JohnG Posted December 26, 2021 Report Posted December 26, 2021 I like the wooden pieces you have on your bessey clamps. Do you have these affixed to the contact pads in any way or are they just free? 2 Quote
gee-dub Posted December 26, 2021 Author Report Posted December 26, 2021 On 12/25/2021 at 8:49 PM, wtnhighlander said: What do you like to use for the spline material? More ply? I prefer double tempered hardboard. Glues well, dimensionally stable, and pretty darn tough stuff. I end up with scraps of it since I use it for backer board for picture frames as well as other things around the shop. On 12/25/2021 at 9:29 PM, JohnG said: I like the wooden pieces you have on your bessey clamps. Do you have these affixed to the contact pads in any way or are they just free? They float free. I notch them at the bandsaw with a shape that allows them to sort of snap on and snap off if I have a need to remove them. Most of my f-style clamps have them on pretty much all the time. 2 Quote
Popular Post Coop Posted December 26, 2021 Popular Post Report Posted December 26, 2021 And the roll of toilet paper in case you have one of those really hard pucker glue ups? 3 Quote
gee-dub Posted December 26, 2021 Author Report Posted December 26, 2021 On 12/25/2021 at 10:00 PM, Coop said: And the roll of toilet paper in case you have one of those really hard pucker glue ups? . . . That does look like a roll of TP doesn't it? It's actually a section of a paper towel roll. I cut rolls into three sections and fashion disposable finishing pads out of them. I had left them out after finishing the inside surfaces of the frame. 2 Quote
Popular Post JohnG Posted December 26, 2021 Popular Post Report Posted December 26, 2021 On 12/26/2021 at 1:00 AM, Coop said: And the roll of toilet paper in case you have one of those really hard pucker glue ups? Once you start a glue up you can’t run off to the bathroom! 3 Quote
Popular Post Coop Posted December 26, 2021 Popular Post Report Posted December 26, 2021 On 12/26/2021 at 9:34 AM, JohnG said: Once you start a glue up you can’t run off to the bathroom! Depends 3 Quote
pkinneb Posted December 26, 2021 Report Posted December 26, 2021 On 12/25/2021 at 11:39 PM, gee-dub said: ...They float free. I notch them at the bandsaw with a shape that allows them to sort of snap on and snap off if I have a need to remove them. Most of my f-style clamps have them on pretty much all the time. So they are there so you don't mar the surface? Kinda like the red plastic things they come with only they actually stay on the clamps? Quote
gee-dub Posted December 27, 2021 Author Report Posted December 27, 2021 On 12/26/2021 at 8:47 AM, pkinneb said: So they are there so you don't mar the surface? Kinda like the red plastic things they come with only they actually stay on the clamps? That's it. They also help the f-style clamps get a grip on things that can sometimes be problematic for f-styles. The "minis" are a far cry from something like the UniKlamps but the small size can do things even a 6" f-style may be too large for. The minis, 6", 8" and 12" UniKlamps, and the 24" k-body clamps do the lion's share of clamp work in my shop . .. and probably in that order 1 1 Quote
Popular Post gee-dub Posted December 29, 2021 Author Popular Post Report Posted December 29, 2021 I got side tracked and started working on my plywood storage thing-a-ma-jig. Meanwhile back at the shadow box . . . Here's the frame with trim and the first finishing phase done. I'm told the back board will be covered with denim. Then the bit, reins, stirrups and such will be mounted to the board. When the french cleat is engaged it looks like so. I used the small miter box recently discussed on the forum for the internal glass retainer stock. I milled the quarter round on a larger blank and then ripped off the trim profile. Shooting board to tune the fit. They'll go in like so. I didn't want to wait for the oil finish to dry on the trim. I used some Transtint Reddish Brown to tint some shellac to match. Dries in about 30 minutes so I can go ahead and put them in. I guess this project will go quiet till they drop off the denim so I can finish it up. 4 Quote
Popular Post gee-dub Posted January 18, 2022 Author Popular Post Report Posted January 18, 2022 Circling back to close this customer designed, horse tack, shadow box. Being picked up tomorrow. Open areas at top and center are for an embroidered team name tag off of a riding vest and some awards. 7 Quote
wtnhighlander Posted January 18, 2022 Report Posted January 18, 2022 @gee-dub, is that recessed into a wall,or just a weird optical illusion? Quote
gee-dub Posted January 18, 2022 Author Report Posted January 18, 2022 On 1/17/2022 at 8:01 PM, wtnhighlander said: @gee-dub, is that recessed into a wall,or just a weird optical illusion? Optical illusion :-). Just random chance that I caught that angle with the camera. It is about 4 inches deep inside, 5 inches overall. 1 1 Quote
Chestnut Posted January 18, 2022 Report Posted January 18, 2022 Is the back painted the same color as the wall or is it open with the tack hanging from the wall? That's really cool. Quote
gee-dub Posted January 18, 2022 Author Report Posted January 18, 2022 On 1/18/2022 at 4:32 AM, Chestnut said: Is the back painted the same color as the wall or is it open with the tack hanging from the wall? That's really cool. The back is half inch Baltic birch ply with some canvas glued to it. There are small holes drilled through in inconspicuous places that allow pieces of wire to be threaded through and around the items that are mounted. Where the wires come through the back of the board they are twisted, pressed flat, and covered with tape similar to that you use to seal the back of a picture frame although just small squares. There are then bumpers on the back that hold the back panel about a 1/16" from the wall so that the wires have clearance. The hanging method is keyhole slots. Essentially the backboard mounts to the wall with the keyhole slots and has a French cleat profile along the top edge. The shadowbox has a matching French cleat profile at the top rear and simply hangs in place covering the backboard and becoming flush to the wall. I put an 1/8" chamfer profile all around the back to create a shadow line. This will make any inconsistencies in the wall where it is hung less obvious. This is really a much more “crafty” type project than I generally do. It was done per a supplied general design (pretty much a doodle on the back of a napkin ) and as a favor. It did give me an excuse to try out the veneering vac and bag so it was a win-win. 2 Quote
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