bradleyheathhays Posted December 7, 2023 Report Posted December 7, 2023 To make a long story short, I've got to make two Adirondack chairs out of Red Oak and have them ready, painted and presented by Christmas. I've been told by soo many people how bad Red Oak would be for soaking up water and that they'd have to be repainted almost every year, but I have no time to get a more proper species so I'll have to go with what I've got. I'm writing to ask what I can do to make these chairs weather a little better. I've been told to coat the bottom of the legs with epoxy and that would help stave off water absorption. Does anyone have specific advice on how to do this? I've worked with two part epoxies plenty before now so this isn't totally unfamiliar territory. I'm assuming thinner epoxy would be better. The chairs will be sitting on concrete so maybe that'll help. I've also been told to paint all the parts separately before putting them together, and that this would help with not absorbing water as well. Any other advice on what I can do to help these chairs weather better? Thanks Quote
Chet Posted December 7, 2023 Report Posted December 7, 2023 I did West System epoxy on the bottom of an outdoor piece. I wrapped a couple of layers of blue tape around the legs so that it created a form about a 1/4" deep and poured the epoxy in two pours. Quote
Ron Swanson Jr. Posted December 7, 2023 Report Posted December 7, 2023 Have you considered looking into rubber "feet" to sit on the bottom of each leg to give a physical barrier? I'm thinking of something similar to what you'd see on a cutting board, but on a larger scale. Just a thought. Quote
legenddc Posted December 7, 2023 Report Posted December 7, 2023 I've done it the same way as Chet. I think you could also use a foot like Ron suggested. Maybe a HDPE or cutting board plastic material for the bottom. Quote
curlyoak Posted December 7, 2023 Report Posted December 7, 2023 On 12/7/2023 at 9:17 AM, legenddc said: Maybe a HDPE or cutting board plastic material for the bottom. That is what I do. 1/2" thick. And just big enough to install 2 #6 ss wood screws with a counter sink hole. You want the piece small to avoid capillary action. And the touch points must be on masonry. Including 4 pavers as a possibility. That material will not sand, glue or paint. It will cut, route, and drill. And with proper holes it will accept screws. Quote
BillyJack Posted December 7, 2023 Report Posted December 7, 2023 You just go to prime paint and keep up the maintenance. You need something between the leg and the concrete. Easy fix.. Mines out side . I’ve got to put it up on wood blocks and cover for winter. All about the maintenance.. Quote
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