Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide

[lighthearted]

I recently made the jump and bought the Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide. Wow what a difference. Now I see what they mean when they say mirror finish! I use a norton 1000/8000 grit water-stone. My chisels are amazing. I really get it now.

I have but one issue. I am having trouble keeping the chisel squared after aligning it in the jig. The chisel seems to pivot in the clamp.

I have been very careful about tightening each fastener slowly and evenly as instructed, with no luck. On Shannon's advice I took a file and tried to rough the surface with a couple passes. I even tried some double stick sand paper to assist in keeping a tight grip, with no luck.

Has anyone else had this issue? How did you deal with it. Like I said the guide is amazing, I just feel like this wiggle should not be occurring.

[konkers]

I can't offer much advice other than "it works fine for me." I event out my clamping pressure by sight. They're just loose enough that I can tap on the handle to adjust square but say put when sharpening.

The few chisels I do have are japanese style. The top on those is fairly rough and the back is scalloped. I wonder if that makes them stay put easier.

[PaulMarcel]

Dunno if it helps, but I usually only apply pressure on the pull, which would seem to help keep it on straight. Pushing, I could see it wanting to wiggle side to side and go crooked.

[outofstepper]

I have Bahco chisels with a very pronounced taper and they just won't hold still. That

said, if you use a light touch on the stone they don't move around. I suppose we shouldn't

really be leaning into our waterstones all that much anyway -- so trade off less force for

more strokes.

You could also try pushing just your chisel: index fingers on back of bevel and thumbs

hooked behind their handles (over the jig's shoulder) -- that way you're not pushing the

chisel with the jig directly.

Haven't tried it myself but I bet a few wraps of masking tape (or that rubberized grip tape)

on the small jaw would give just enough compliance to get a better grip.

Once I got good edges on my chisels, though, I dress them by hand.. and the MKII has mostly

been doing plane iron work -- those are nice and flat and stay solid in the jig.

-Tony

[RenaissanceWW]

I second Paul-Marcel's advice. Pressure only on the pull stroke will help but I think it also sharpens more efficiently. Secondly, don't apply too much pressure. You may be pressing down too much and causing the chisel to shift. This will happy especially with chisels 1/2" and under so let the stone to the work and no white knuckle sharpening.

[BenLowery]

I too had problems with my MKII when I first got it; I was never able to get a square edge. At first I blamed the squareness of the alignment guide, and even sent my MKII back for replacement, but the new one exhibited the same "problem." I figured it had to be something I was doing, so I broke it down a bit more...

My real problem was too much finger pressure. I'm right handed and when I thought I was putting equal pressure with both my right and left index fingers, I was really leaning pretty hard to the right, hence my out of square edge. Lightening up helped tremendously, and I think it actually sharpens faster for some oddball reason.

As for tightening the chisels, they're very sensitive to having the clamp be parallel, and for chisels with any round in the top face, it's hard to get them to sit still. I know you just invested in the MKII, but you might consider trying an eclipse-style guide for your chisels. After all this monkeying around with squareness and what-have-you, I ended up switching back to my eclipse for chisels, as it's faster to setup and I find it holds the chisels more securely.

[DerekG]

I was having similar issues with my MKII. I ended up putting a piece of sandpaper (fine grit) and or leather on the side of the guide where the flat back of the chisel/blades go. It helps keep the piece from shifting around on the rather slick ?enamel? painted metal.

[paulkray]

You could try Tom Fidgen's method and hold the jig backwards. Thumbs on the blade and handle facing away. This method has worked for me.

[mlehikoinen]

You could try Tom Fidgen's method and hold the jig backwards. Thumbs on the blade and handle facing away. This method has worked for me.

I'll second that one!

[joestyles]

I sharpen by hand on water stones but I was doing that for other types of blades long before I got into wood work. I was considering the guide glad I read this first though I can imagine the effect of my technique if I tired with out these comments. I do see the issue as being over relying on the jig to keep things straight and for sure I would have done the same thing. The jig would make me change the way I hold things and would make me want to force things in order to achieve faster and better results and have the opposite effect. I learned a long time ago the right touch is better than using any amount of force it takes a little longer maybe but over time I got pretty quick. Problem for me is I can't teach this to some of my guys who want to sharpen so gonna get the jig eventually and will have to reteach myself on it first Thanks for this fellas!

[Vic]

You could try Tom Fidgen's method and hold the jig backwards. Thumbs on the blade and handle facing away. This method has worked for me.

That's my method, also. It's much more ergonomic for me.

[jHop]

This problem is not confined to just the Mk2. I have a different brand of sharpening jig, and have the same issue. I have started putting more pressure on the chisel on the pull stroke. (then again, I was monkeying around with Harbor Freight chisels, so I don't expect much in the first place.) My Marples sharpened well on the sandpaper, but was more difficult to keep in the jig... being only 1/4", it tends to twist out of the notches. Does this happen on the Mk2? (which was my first choice, but economics dictated otherwise.)

[SamV]

That's my method, also. It's much more ergonomic for me.

I'll have to try that.

I've had the MkII for a while now and still love it for sharpening every kind of plane blade I own, even added the camber jig for my jack plane. My Hirsch chisels do well in the jig and I've found it takes a simple adjustment after a couple of strokes to square up some of the narrow ones. I recently bought a narex mortise chisel and had to buy one of the more simpler honing guides for it.

[rodger.]

How wide is the stone you are using? I switched to a wider water stone and it helped me keep the jig balanced.

[splinterdawg]

I had the same problems with the MKII too. After using a buddies' Richard Kell honing guide, my MKII just collects dust now. Because of the design, the Kell honing guide has none of the problems that the MKII has. And it is very repeatable when you want to touch up an edge. That is something that is very difficult to do with the MKII.

You can see it here. http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/indextool.mvc?prodid=EE-HGRK.XX

[pagel]

I also use the Kell guide and love it. However, using it on narrow chisels is a PITA - not much room to place your fingers. I'm lucky I have relatively thin fingers. I've thought about getting the MKII for just this reason.

[splinterdawg]

I have gotten used to using the wider guide and holding it on the rods that stick out and placing a finger on the chisel blade to keep it in contact with the stone. It takes a little getting used to but I find it is still easier and more accurate than the MKII.

But pros like Frank Klausz might say why use a honing guide all!

[Tom Conover]

Purchased the Mk. II when I purchased my first 3 planes and a set of chisels from Lee Valley. I like the micro bevel feature. I have since purchased the camber guide and the skew guide. I use a 4000 and a 10000 wet stones and then follow with a light pass on the buffing wheel. Yep, SCARY Sharp!

Tom

[JMort847]

I've been thinking about the MKII but the Kell jig looks interesting and in the same price range. Seems like both have their place.