rick@whydoit.com Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 I did a couple searches, and didn't find anything - I have a panel resawn and edge-glued. Spalted sycamore, but it cupped badly. I've seen David Marks flatten veneer with a sizing mix. Obviously, this is much thicker than that. Is there any way I can flatten this? I guess the other question is does it really matter. It will end up as a door panel. So will the frame keep it in shape or could the panel actually pull the door out of shape eventually? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 You could rip cut into several pieces, than reglue it back together of course you will lose the width of the kerf cuts. It might straighten out once you slide it into the door perhaps dry fit than go from there hope it works out it's a nicely figured panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 Worth a shot; actually works pretty well :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick@whydoit.com Posted August 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 I can't really rip this - it's only about 15" and book-matched. The grain is pretty wild, so any more loss to kerf will really be noticeable. I like the idea of the heat gun - may try that. I've already tried dampening the inside face and clamping while drying, but that didn't work. Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 i would make sure your frame is extra strong once you get it flattened because i would expect it to twist the frame a little with the different seasons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 I would make sure your panel groove is centered on your frame stock . I have seen many doors with very thin back sections due to the desire for a deeper recessed panel. Another thought would be get the panel flat and pre- finish it on both sides and especially the edges before you assemble the frame, this would help keep the moisture content of the panel more stable. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick@whydoit.com Posted August 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 i would make shure your frame is extra strong once you get it flattened because i would expect it to twist the frame a little with the different seasons. This is planned to be a panel in a walnut door. Can you explain what you mean by "extra strong"? I'm a novice at doors (I've made tables and boxes) so I only have the Norm's and Marc's (et al) as to how to do it. Steve - I'd heard you should pre-finish panels anyway so that an unfinished section doesn't peek out with seasonal shrinkage. So I'd planned to, but not for the reason you stated. That's really good advice I'll keep in mind for all projects! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 Worth a shot; actually works pretty well :-) Sure wish I would have known this a week ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howtoworkwood Posted August 18, 2012 Report Share Posted August 18, 2012 It might be worth steaming it and seeing if you can flatten it then. The steam heats up the lignin in the wood and makes it pliable. That way you'll be able to bend it flat and then as long as you keep it pressed flat whilst the lignin cools back down it should stay flat. Careful you don't add too much water with the steaming as it may lead to other warping or cracking problems if the moisture is added/subtracted unevenly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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