petersb Posted September 12, 2010 Report Share Posted September 12, 2010 The internet is a great thing. Where else can you go and get so much information, and put it to use? I am wondering what table saw blades is everyone using, right now, in there saws? I use the Freud glueline rip blade, full kerf(silver, not the red coated one). I have a 1.5 hp Delta contractors saw. This was the first premium blade that I bought and the results have been fantastic from the start. The finish cut is like it has been polished. The only way to get a similar finish is to sand into the 1000s of grit sandpaper. I have had it resharpened once since I got it about 7 years ago. I even get good crosscuts with it, even though it is a rip blade. I have thought about the freud combination blade to try out next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory Paolini Posted September 12, 2010 Report Share Posted September 12, 2010 The internet is a great thing. Where else can you go and get so much information, and put it to use? I am wondering what table saw blades is everyone using, right now, in there saws? I use the Freud glueline rip blade, full kerf(silver, not the red coated one). I have a 1.5 hp Delta contractors saw. This was the first premium blade that I bought and the results have been fantastic from the start. The finish cut is like it has been polished. The only way to get a similar finish is to sand into the 1000s of grit sandpaper. I have had it resharpened once since I got it about 7 years ago. I even get good crosscuts with it, even though it is a rip blade. I have thought about the freud combination blade to try out next. I have some CMT, Forrest, And Freud Blades - No matter which I use, I gennerally follow up with a pass or two with the hand plane - That gives a perfect surface, which needs no sanding afterwards. -gp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jab73180 Posted September 12, 2010 Report Share Posted September 12, 2010 the fusion blade is the one i want, but i need a real saw to pt it on. i just have a ridgid contractors saw right now. i have a freud thin kerf blade i got from HD on it now and it works pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben H Posted September 12, 2010 Report Share Posted September 12, 2010 Forrest WW2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keggers Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 I own some Freud blades but prefer the Forrest blades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Freud LU83R010 10-Inch 50 Tooth ATB Thin Kerf Combination Saw Blade on my Sawstop contractor saw. I checked with Freud and their red coating won't interfere with the Sawstop; it's been tested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteJr Posted September 14, 2010 Report Share Posted September 14, 2010 For my Sears 1 1/2HP table saw I use the Freud thin kerf. I find the the regular kerf slows down and the thin kerf is like a hot knife through butter. I think you will be satisfied with a quality thin kerf carbide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renzo Posted September 14, 2010 Report Share Posted September 14, 2010 I recently got a freud fusion. (as discussed at length in another thread) I'm happy with it. I am debating about getting a rip blade though. The fusion is listed as doing 1 1/2 inch rips, ive done a few 8/4 planed down to about 1 5/8 and it had some problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim DaddyO Posted September 14, 2010 Report Share Posted September 14, 2010 I bought a 24 tooth and a 40 tooth Freud thin kerf this year (not the red ones). Makes my old underpowered Craftsman contractor saw happy and me too. Cuts like buttah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerrySats Posted September 15, 2010 Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 Forrest WW2 Another happy Forrest owner , aside from my Freud Dado set that's all I use . My WW1 is over 25 years old and still cutting smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samhell Posted September 15, 2010 Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 the fusion blade is the one i want, but i need a real saw to pt it on. i just have a ridgid contractors saw right now. i have a freud thin kerf blade i got from HD on it now and it works pretty good. I had that saw and used nice blades on it. Try it. You will see a big improvement. They are just standard 10" blades so its not like you can't use them on a nicer saw if you ever get one. I use the Freud blades as well. 50 tooth fusion, 80 tooth (something... its red... I don't remember but I don't use it often...don't want to ruin it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 I'm a Freud guy, I have a LU84R011 combination in the saw pretty much 24/7, and then I have a LM72R010 for ripping, and a LU85R010 for cross cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 Brett - I have several that I use regularly...brand isn't important to me so long as the blade does the job well. My daily general purpose users are the Delta 7657 40T, Tenryu RS25550 50T, or DeWalt DW7640 50T, plus I have an Infinity Super General as my "good" general purpose blade for more critical cuts...I also have a Forrest WWII 40T that I use occasionally for critical general purpose stuff too. I've got an inexpensive Oshlun 40T for "riskier" boards...it does a nice enough job, and I don't worry too much if something should happen to it. I also have several specialty blades that see use when it makes sense...I have an excellent 60T Hi-ATB Infinity 010-060 and an 80T Hi-ATB CMT 210.080.10 that are primarily for ultra fine crosscuts or ply cuts, for the times when having no tearout is important to me, otherwise the Super General does a pretty impressive job in that application too. I've also got a 20T Amana RB-1020 for heavy duty ripping, and a 30T ATB DeWalt DW7653 for cleaner thick ripping. If you're happy with the crosscuts from the LM74, I suspect you'd be blown away by one of the better crosscut blades. The LM74 is not typically well regarded for it's crosscut prowess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NHSchreiner Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 I use Freud and Amana blades on a cabinet saw. I recently had my two Amana blades (both the same model) sharpened one by Forrest and one by my local vendor. The Forrest sharpened blades came back sharper and the teeth looked almost polished. Although the price was higher the cost for straightening and replacing a damaged tooth was less expensive. I'll have to see which stays sharp longer, my guess is the Forrest sharpened one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DannyBoy Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 Tough to beat the WW2.....excellent for rips and crosscuts. Add a zero clearance insert and say goodbye to tearout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcurley290 Posted October 3, 2010 Report Share Posted October 3, 2010 Another vote for WWII Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillN Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 I'm partial to the WWII, but I have a Freud Glueline Rip that I like for heavy ripping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob Mac Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 I'm inbetween TS atm, but I have a lot of Ridge blades. Good stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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