..Kev Posted December 28, 2014 Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 I have plenty of rasping and sanding to do in my near future. Yes you do! It's really looking awesome tho! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted December 28, 2014 Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 Depends on the size and grade of the board. 1/6th to 1/4 of the face is allowed for sapwood in some sizes and grades. Better width and grade boards may have sapwood on the back but should be heartwood on the face. NHLA standards for walnut go on for several paragraphs. I think the rules for cherry are similar but also deal with sap pockets as well as light sapwood. They steam walnut in my area, but it sometimes leaves a "muddier" board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Jimerfield Posted December 29, 2014 Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 Love it. Nice design detail on the side skirt/riser. This is going to be a stunning piece of furniture that clearly will also be art. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted December 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 Thanks Shane. I've been sanding and sanding. I was at it on-and-off throughout three NFL games yesterday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Just a little update: I've lost track, but I must be around Hour 26. I did most of the shaping and I've sanded all of it to 100 (and most of the flat surfaces to 220). I'm mulling over the "look" for the top. http:// I'm thinking this: http:// Or this: http:// I'm undecided. Option 2 is winning so far. Of course those are just mock-ups. The top is 40" or 42" long by 13" wide. Opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 I like option 2 as well. Just my opinion but, I think a taper on the top to match the angle of the legs would look pretty cool as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 I'd try to talk Kev out of some of his live edge maple 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 I like option 2 as well. Just my opinion but, I think a taper on the top to match the angle of the legs would look pretty cool as well. Yes. I agree on both points. The light stripe down the middle is too "busy" and doesn't make for interesting "grain flow" for this table. The taper on the top is perfect. Great idea Kev. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Jimerfield Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 interesting. i too like the idea of a taper on the top and the 2nd grain pattern. have you thought about finish yet? you might want to think about how you can create some contrast between the top and the base. amber shellac on the top? oil/poly on the base? you might even try going really dark on the risers/side skirts. they will be in the shadow of the top, so you might want to go for maximum contrast, so they don't get lost under there. the finish is going to need some serious consideration - you've come far with this design. you've stretched some limits on proportion. the finish will either enhance or bust this design - IMHO. pause, contemplate. then wait some more. let it tell you what it wants. don't rush the finish. "don't go leaping straight for the..." "Give her a kiss, boy." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Ah Ha!...Monty Python's "Meaning of Life". I had to look it up. You're right Shane; there is no hurry. I have all the time I need. In the first place it has been well below zero in the morning for the last couple of days. Yesterday it was -17 F and today it is -24. It doesn't get much higher than low single digits during the day when the temp goes that low, and although my shop has a heater, I don't like to run it that much. It is just too expensive to run for hours at a time. So, on the finishing...I won't be spraying lacquer (which is one of the finishes I use often on smaller projects). I have done numerous test pieces of Alder. I've tried; Danish Oil, Tung Oil, Behlen's "Rock Hard", Minwax wipe-on poly, Arm-r-seal, and probably a couple of others which are not coming to mind at the moment. I have not tried BLO, which is something I will do this time around. Everyone has their own opinion on what finish works for them, and I'm not saying they are wrong, so don't get upset if I disrespect your favorite finishing technique. In the past I have not been impressed with an oil finish. Used on its own an oil gives a dull and dry look to my eye. When I've put a top coat over an oil there appears to be little (if any) difference than what I get with say Arm-r-seal alone...so the oil is an extra/unnecessary step in the finishing IMO. I will not use wax on my furniture. I have had to maintain a wax finish in the past and, although re-waxing is only an occasional necessity, it is not one I want to have to do. I haven't used shellac to any extent, and that is something I should try out. I have not finished Walnut before, so I have a bunch of test pieces to do on the sap/heart wood combination to see how it looks along side the Alder. On your comment about "pushing the limits of proportion"...I'm not happy with the design. It looks like a Franken-table to me, and shows the pit-falls of an amateur designing on the fly. I will finish it up, because it's good practice and my wife likes it...but I don't expect it to be very appealing as a piece of furniture. That said...I figure "that's the way it is" and I feel like I have accomplished my goal of working with some curves. Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Beware of BLO in cold weather. I did a small accent table last year, and applied BLO when the temp in the shop was about 40* F. Flood on, wait 10 minutes, wipe off excess. This was in the morning before work. Got home that afternoon to find the piece was still wet. Several days and re-wipings later, oils was still oozing out. Finally got dry enough to bring it inside, and it was ok on the top surfaces, but under the table top kept growing stalactites of BLO goo for more than a month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Your boards were probably graded based on the other face. Flat, straight and appealing to you is the most important. I noticed that one of my other walnut boards has 90/50 written on the end. Is that the grade of the bundle of lumber? Does it mean 50% good on one face and 90% on the other? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Beware of BLO in cold weather. I did a small accent table last year, and applied BLO when the temp in the shop was about 40* F. Flood on, wait 10 minutes, wipe off excess. This was in the morning before work. Got home that afternoon to find the piece was still wet. Several days and re-wipings later, oils was still oozing out. Finally got dry enough to bring it inside, and it was ok on the top surfaces, but under the table top kept growing stalactites of BLO goo for more than a month. Thanks for the warning. My shop is about 40 deg. without the heater going and it is likely that I would have done my BLO test pieces outside as I don't love the fragrance of fresh BLO. I have a small room indoors which I can use for finishing during the winter months, but I usually do test pieces out in the shop/barn so I don't have to smell 6 different finishes at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Just a little update: I've lost track, but I must be around Hour 26. I did most of the shaping and I've sanded all of it to 100 (and most of the flat surfaces to 220). I'm mulling over the "look" for the top. http:// I'm thinking this: http:// Or this: http:// I'm undecided. Option 2 is winning so far. Of course those are just mock-ups. The top is 40" or 42" long by 13" wide. Opinions? Dave, What are the dimensions of each of the two walnut boards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 One is 7.5" and one is just under 7". Straight line ripped on one edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Pic 1 is one side of the boards and # 2 is the other side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 pic 1 is two boards with sapwood pic 2 is a third board placed over top the boards in pic 1 But I'm not necessarily trying to go for the grain match with those boards. It was just a mock-up to see a couple of patterns of sapwood arrangement. If I go with option 2, which is likely, I may choose another piece of walnut for the middle board of pic 2. Although it has nice grain, it may not be what I'm looking for to go with the sapwood boards. It probably doesn't show too much in the photos, but that middle board in pic 2 is a different color than the boards in pic 1. The one with the sapwood has purple-ish tones. The other is distinctly more chocolate in appearance. All that said...I'm open to suggestions. Truth be told, I'm wondering why you ask. Perhaps you're thinking of something I haven't considered. I won't be making the top until the base is completely finished. I've been seeing wood movement from taking the table from the 40 deg. shop to the 70 deg. man cave for sanding. When the top is complete I want to put a finish on and screw it down before it "potato chips" on me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 OK, I thought you only had two boards and after going back and forth between the two pics, I was wondering how you could have that much sap wood on one side and have almost none on the other.I agree with others that # 2 would be the way to go, especially if you can find another board closer to the same color. But according to my wife, I'm color blind so I'm probably not the go to person on this one. I can't imagine it not looking good, especially with the job you've done on it so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 So...a little update. I've sanded and put together the top for the table. Glued up and fastened down. I had done a dozen or so test pieces for the finish and I have some Arm-R in the mail. http:// My problem now is that the table is not stable. In fact, it is positively tremulous. Tremulous I say! ...Quivering like an aspen leaf in the breeze. Many of you probably saw it coming, but clearly there are "standards" and "conventions" for designing furniture, and there is a reason for that. People have been making furniture for ages and they have worked out what is "best"...what is pleasing to the eye, functional, and what will stand up (never mind "stand the test of time"). When you diverge too much from those standards, you end up with something which doesn't work quite so well. So...I'm considering adding stretchers to the legs to hold things more firmly. http:// There are so many options, but I would like to keep the table looking light. I think I can flex the legs enough to do some small (round) M&Ts for the joinery. The question is...do you think this will help to stabilize the table? I could add two curved stretchers instead...or I could add a shelf. Still, the table is only 12.5" wide X 29" tall X 42 long, so it will never be super stable, but I would like for a cat to be able to jump up or down without the thing falling over. As usual, any suggestions are appreciated. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 I think your design looks nice, if you are comfortable making the curves. I see no reason it shouldn't work to stiffen the legs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Dave, I for one "didn't see it coming". Sorry for your temporary setback. You've probably become a better woodworker because of it, but what a way to get an education, right! If it's any consolation, great match on the grain for the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Best way to learn is to stick your neck out ! Those lessons you learn from and never forget. Tuition might be a tad high..... I think the leg bracing is the right direction to got and the curve looks good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Oh...don't get me wrong. I hope I don't sound frustrated. I'm having a great time with this project. I love to just jump in and figure things out as I go. I've learned innumerable lessons on this project and I haven't gotten to the finish yet which is always a challenge for me. All setbacks are like tear out; they teach you how to cover up the blemishes. Truth be told...I don't need any furniture. I don't feel bad if my projects go in the burn pile. I make them to learn skills, and if I make something "serviceable" that's a bonus. I have other things I could move on to if this "Franken-Table" (no offense to the good Dr.) is a bust, but I like to "follow through" as much as is possible. Even if it's a catastrophe wrapped up in a train wreck, I would throw some arm-r-seal on it. Thanks for noticing the grain. I put some effort into that and I'm hoping it pops with the finish. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Keep the faith ! I kinda like the bow legged cowboy stance it has. Curved braces could be explained as shoelaces...... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Joined late but in for the end of the project on this one. Looks great so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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