Big Stock, Little Tools. ARGHHH.

[skogie1]

I’m making a 4.25”x2’x7’ beech workbench top. I glued up the top in two sections so that I could run each section through my planer. Now I need to connect the two halves. HOWEVER, after planing down the two halves, the inside edges that will be glued together are no longer square to the tops. They are very, very close, but not close enough to be glued together without throwing the top out of flat (or without leaving too big a gap at the glue edge). So I need to square it up. The pieces are too big for my jointer. My jointer bed is a little less than 4’ long and the fence is about 4” high or so. My table saw is a contractor saw, not a cabinet saw. What do you think my best option is for squaring this up? Build extensions for my jointer bed and fence and use the jointer? Build an extension fence for my table saw? I have a Festool TS 75 too and I’m trying to figure out a way to use that perhaps. If I use the table saw then I’ll have to do two cuts, flipping the piece end-to-end, because the blade won’t be high enough to do the cut in one pass. I would have the same problem with the Festool track saw. Holding the work up flat against the jointer fence will be difficult even with extensions in place because each half of the bench top weights 120 pounds. What do you think would be the best way to do this???

Also, I am leaning very strongly toward doing a split top at this point as then this isn’t quite as big a deal. However, I would still need to cut the halves down a little to create the gap for a split.

All advice and opinions are appreciated! Thanks in advance.

[mkrusen]

Did you build the base yet? If not, then just do a split top. Who cares if the bench is a couple of inches wider than initially planned.

[Woodenskye]

Do you own any hand planes?  That would probably be the easiest option besides doing a split top.

[drzaius]

I was faced with the same situation; trying to square up 3.5" x 10" sections. I made extension tables for the jointer. Worked perfectly. You may need to attach a higher auxiliary fence to your 4" fence.  

[Unknown craftsman]

A hand plane would be the best way.But if you don't have the skill or a decent plane thats a tough one.

I could do it for you on my jointer but I'm in southern california.

Sometimes our project just get away from us the good news it may lead to a future upgrade.

Good luck

 

Aj

[shaneymack]

I had that problem in high school, then I started dating smaller women.  Well that solved half the problem at least.  

Ahhh i see, hence the Asian wife?

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

[Ronn W]

I have a split top bench and love it.  Very handy for clamping things down that are less than the width a one piece bench.  I also made inserts that rest and slide in the 2" gap to hold screws, chisels and anything else that you don't want rolling off the bench.  The edges of the gap don't need to be perfect.

[..Kev]

Split tops are great and I love mine.  However, build the bench you want and that works for our flow!  If you don't, you may have regrets in the future!

Hand planes may be a good option for getting them square.  You might also check a local cabinet shop and see if they can get them squared up for you.. 

[gee-dub]

I do this for thinner stock but, you could use the same method.  Start with your two pieces setting on the outer edges with the surfaces that are to become the top face to face.  The irregularities in my diagrams are exaggerated but, represent your un-jointed edges.

Open the two pieces like a book.  You should be looking at the top surfaces.  This is just a safety check; if you are sure of your orientation, skip it.

Close the book and align the non-jointed edges as close as you can.  Clamp them in the vise or with clamps to your work surface.

Now joint the entire edge surfaces as if they were one.  Again the irregularity is exaggerated.

Even if your wide surface to edge angle is not perfectly 90* they will mate properly.  Lay the pair over to the left.

Flip the now-on-top piece open to the left.

The top is now exposed (up) and the edges should mate well.

[Brendon_t]

I had much the same issue after flattening my top slabs. 20 minutes with a sharp #5 and a square fixed er right up