gee-dub Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 There was some talk about pore fillers elsewhere and I mentioned P-of-P. This is an old technique but, thought I'd re-share for those who might have missed it. There is no one product that suits all situations but, for things with big pores like red oak that will receive an oil based finish, it doesn't get much cheaper or easier. I mix the P-of-P to about the consistency of heavy cream. Apply it like any filler; across the grain, in circles, etc to drive the material into the things you want to fill. Once dry (it dries fast) wipe it with a sponge to get most of the spoil off, sand to your desired finishing grit and apply your oil based finish. The oils turn the P-of-P translucent and it effectively vanishes under anything other than a super-clear finish. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheperd80 Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 Interesting. Ive never done this but sounds like a cheap and easy method worth trying. Does this work well on dark woods? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 You can also mix universal colorants into the plaster for all sorts of color combinations. I saw ash dyed black then a coat of sanding sealer before filling the pores with plaster dyed bright green. I strongly suggest practicing on scrap before you tackle a piece of furniture,! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 I've used it with black dye, to give red oak a nearly zebra wood-like appearance. I think if you want to do a contrasting dye and fill color like Steve mentioned, a coat of sanding sealer / shellac after dying the wood might help the colors stay seperate and distinct. This is the sort of treatment red oak screams for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted October 23, 2016 Report Share Posted October 23, 2016 Never done that. You peaked my interest. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted October 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2016 Finally dug up an example. This is a simple wall cabinet carcass before the top coat has been applied. It had been filled with P-of-P and oil stained (Minwax Colonial Maple IIRC). The point is to show how the P-of-P disappears with the application of the oil based finish. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted October 23, 2016 Report Share Posted October 23, 2016 1 hour ago, gee-dub said: Finally dug up an example. This is a simple wall cabinet carcass before the top coat has been applied. It had been filled with P-of-P and oil stained (Minwax Colonial Maple IIRC). The point is to show how the P-of-P disappears with the application of the oil based finish. I need to confirm. Does it disappear with the oil finish, or does it disappear with any finish after being stained? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted October 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2016 2 hours ago, C Shaffer said: I need to confirm. Does it disappear with the oil finish, or does it disappear with any finish after being stained? The oil turns the P-of-P translucent. I have not tried it with water borne finishes because, 'oil based' was emphasized back when I picked it up. Obviously there have been giant leaps in the quality and characteristics of water borne finishes so it would be interesting to try a test board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted October 23, 2016 Report Share Posted October 23, 2016 1 hour ago, gee-dub said: The oil turns the P-of-P translucent. I have not tried it with water borne finishes because, 'oil based' was emphasized back when I picked it up. Obviously there have been giant leaps in the quality and characteristics of water borne finishes so it would be interesting to try a test board. No to beat a dead horse, but can you limit the change to the oil finish? It seems an oil stain after filling would create a change. Have you ever use P of P for a project without coloring? It seems the P of P would take on whatever tint is in the oil used directly on it. That you say "translucent" has my curiosity piqued. I am off to research it now but also welcome your personal experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted October 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2016 No problem. In the piece pictured the protocol was (or was pretty close to) P-of-P filler sanded to 320, BLO padded on and wiped off (at this point the filler pretty much disappears), Minwax Colonial Maple (the stain does not seem to emphasize the filler at this point) with a clear shellac top coat (just because I wanted a certain sheen). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 PNP/Drywall mud anything like that is not strong enough. As, you mentioned will turn transparent. A good grain filler I like is from Woodwise. Goes on nice, sands easy and water cleanup. The wood floor industry use the product and comes in many colors. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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